Freshly rebuilt 360 RPM's
#1
Freshly rebuilt 360 RPM's
I just recently rebuilt the 360 in my 73 f-100. I had some head work done, block bored 30 over, little larger cam, new pistons and crank, headers, and flowmasters. I still have the stock intake and carb. My question is why this is not going to be a race truck, I am planning on installing a mini tack on the column and I was curious as to what I should set the redline at. I realize these engines are for torque and not high revving power, but I do not have a kickdown cable connected so it shifts really early if I get in a race. Sorry for the long post.
Byron
Byron
#2
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You need to put some careful miles on that motor to bead everything in before you start hammering on it.
Anything over 46 to 4,800 rpm's your beating a dead horse besides you have the weak rods that are good for ventilating blocks above 5,000 rpm's.
Anything over 46 to 4,800 rpm's your beating a dead horse besides you have the weak rods that are good for ventilating blocks above 5,000 rpm's.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; 09-19-2007 at 04:01 AM.
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Give careful atention to the heads like equal stem heights, stem tips dressed, better yet polished after ground, new springs set to equal seat pressures.
Tight rocker assemblies and shafts plus cleaned shafts, dressed rocker pads and a new oil pump. This will allow for many trouble free years of use, it's all in the details. Call it being ****, works for me.
Tight rocker assemblies and shafts plus cleaned shafts, dressed rocker pads and a new oil pump. This will allow for many trouble free years of use, it's all in the details. Call it being ****, works for me.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; 09-19-2007 at 12:47 PM.
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#13
Nothing over 4600RPM if you're going for "stock" ... The original 360's were rated for peak HP at around 4600RPMs. After '72 (when they went to "net" HP ratings) it's down around 3800RPM.
That 4600RPMs is where the power will drop off enough that it's not worth revving out any further, at least stock. Later 1972-up 360's breathed even less, and that 3800RPMs is probably about right.
As for "redline" in terms of breaking something, I wouldn't go past 5000RPMs.
The 1968 360 my brother built for my '74 highboy regularly saw 6000RPMs after I put a 4bbl on it - and it didn't throw a rod. I was hoping it would of, I wanted to go up to a 390 Which I eventually did - and taking apart the 360, I found it was flawless after 160K miles... my brother did a very good job ...
That 4600RPMs is where the power will drop off enough that it's not worth revving out any further, at least stock. Later 1972-up 360's breathed even less, and that 3800RPMs is probably about right.
As for "redline" in terms of breaking something, I wouldn't go past 5000RPMs.
The 1968 360 my brother built for my '74 highboy regularly saw 6000RPMs after I put a 4bbl on it - and it didn't throw a rod. I was hoping it would of, I wanted to go up to a 390 Which I eventually did - and taking apart the 360, I found it was flawless after 160K miles... my brother did a very good job ...
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How many miles do you have on it now? The best way to break an engine in is to run it rather hard. Runner up and then let'er coast down a little. Runner up and coast'er down a little. This should be done in the first 25 to 50 miles or so. The basic rule is: Run it like yer gonna run it! Have done this to every engine I've ever built and have had no problems. Besides, if you did something wrong, might as well find out about it sooner than later. And after it's broke in (not broken) drive it like you stole it! Just kidding. That's for me to do.
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