well i got got my front brakes done, i got 2 new calipers and carbon pads, rotors didnt need to be resurfaced, i originaly had a mushy pedel you could push the pedel to the floor but it took some effort to do that, after the front brakes were done that helped, took it around the block and it was a big improvement but wasnt satisfying, felt like the fronts were the only ones grabbing hard

i bled the whole system at each wheel, now the back i kinda think there is no pads left considering the amout of wear the front pads had, if i slamed the brakes as hard as i could on gravel i couldnt even get it to "skid" and just felt like it was stoping slow,

so how do you get the rear drums off, any special tools needed i took out the axle and thats as far as i got it seems like you need a puller or a special tool to get the rest out??, i dont know why they just dont slide off


Dirrections form CHILTON'S CD:

loosen wheel brake shoe adjustment
it says to remove the wheel bearing locknut,washer, adjusting nut
remove hub and drum assemebly from axle
remove brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut
remove the brake drum form hub

 

I just wen through this on my buddys 95 F250. I beleive you have the Ford 10.25" rear, which should be a full floater rear. You have to back that self adjuster off pretty far in order to be able to pull the drums off. Just remember that these are different from the 1/2 ton trucks, what I mean is, that in order to back the adjuster off you need to push in on the tab to allow the adjuster to loosen, the tab is on the BOTTOM part of the adjuster, not the top. Once you get it backed pretty far off, you should be able to take a hammer and wack them good to get them off.
Rich

 

BIG hammer. To get my drums off, I was taking full swings with a 22 oz framing hammer with no success. I grabbed a 4 lb. engineer's hammer and just a solid tap took them right off.

Jason

 

i did back it off pretty far but i still dont think it is a floating drum

 

You don't have to remove the axles in a 94 to get the drums off. The drums will come right off over the hub. If they don't come off easily, they will need some persuasion from a BFH.

 

alright im working on them right now, got the wheels off and slid the aluminum spacer off and it looks like i have to take out the 8 stud spacers/externders out? that sound right? i got one off and it looks like it threads into the other side if the drum i included some pics of my progress, am i doin it right?

 

Yep, your doing it right....now soak some WD-40 around the studs and start wacking it from behind while turning the drum.

 

alright 10min after i posted the pics i got it off, i was supprised the pads were still in pretty good condition but had surface cracks, maybe the master cylinder for the drums are bad, i think im gonna replace the pads with some new ones and get 2 new master cylinders

 

Good news!!! I'm assuming you meant wheel cylinders . I would definetly replace both wheel cylinders while your back there. The cracks maybe cam from excess heat buildup from towing maybe? How do the inside of the drums look? At the bare minimum, break the glaze on the inside of the drums before you put it back together.

Rich

 

yah i ment wheel cylinders ha ha, it looks like they are leaking a little so i am going to replace them, i think im gonna leave the pads alone, the inside of the drum looks great no groves at all, looks shiney(glazey) what should i use to remove the glaze, some sand paper like 150grit?

 

Where can I get the wheel spacers

 

Pretty sure you have a single wheel axle so get the correct shoes and cylinders

 

Do you know where I can get the Spacers again