[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-02 AT 11:27 PM (EST)]Last week I acquired a 69 F-100 for my son to drive. We drove it 80 miles home and started it many times. I noticed it never got very warm according to guage. This weekend I flushed cooling system and put in a 195deg thermostat where there was NONE.
Now it actually seems to run better and the temp guage shows mid-range.
However, when we turned it off after about 20 minutes of driving with the new thermostat it would not restart. It will turn over but does not even cough. Thought it might be electrical something because even starter fluid down the carb (2bbl) had no effect. ( For short time I had a Mustang II that had an electrical control box on inside fender that overheated)
3 hours later when the engine and compartment cooled down it started just fine.
Any ideas or suggestions. I don't want to get stuck for a three hour cool down.

A different forum response mentioned fuel boil over.

I am planning to replace the carb because I was told it has a scored shaft and thus won't idle down without several foot taps. Could that also help my sub 10 mpg.

Please Help

Richard

 

Check for spark from the coil. Then go from there.

 

yup...just like ratsmoker said...check for spark when its hot...if you still got spark, look into your carb....sounds like an old coil to me tho....

 

Thanks to all,
After degreasing to facilitate carburetor switch we checked and saw that there is a spacer with heater hose lines and just a regular gasket. Found one wire from the coil, which looks new, to distributor laying on manifold so rerouted it. We drove the truck till hot and let it sit for 7 or 8 min. It did not want to start with normal 1 pat and crank. It did start with the pedal held to the floor.
So probably is boil over.
Didn't get the carb in yet but will figure a way to reroute the heater hoses and cap off at the spacer. I will also put in new condensor and points. Next time it is hot I will check the coil spark at least through to a plug.
Also will buy a high capacity battery to help get through it.
Sounds like there is a way to eliminate the points. Is there a kit to make it solid state??
Thanks,
Richard

 

Pertronix makes a kit to do this. It takes about 2 minutes to install it.

 

IMO Pertronix is the best and cheapest way to eliminate points. It was one of the first things I did with my truck and it really made a difference.

I replaced the coil with the pertronix coil and now run a much wider spark plug gap.

Mark

 

>Thanks to all,
>After degreasing to facilitate carburetor switch we checked
>and saw that there is a spacer with heater hose lines and
>just a regular gasket. Found one wire from the coil, which
>looks new, to distributor laying on manifold so rerouted it.
>We drove the truck till hot and let it sit for 7 or 8 min.
>It did not want to start with normal 1 pat and crank. It did
>start with the pedal held to the floor.
>So probably is boil over.
>Didn't get the carb in yet but will figure a way to reroute
>the heater hoses and cap off at the spacer. I will also put
>in new condensor and points. Next time it is hot I will
>check the coil spark at least through to a plug.
>Also will buy a high capacity battery to help get through
>it.
>Sounds like there is a way to eliminate the points. Is there
>a kit to make it solid state??
>Thanks,
>Richard

Rich, that spacer with heater hose (if I'm picturing what you're saying correctly... immediately under the carb, with hose running to a cap on passenger side valve cover, right?) is your PCV spacer. It vents crankcase vapor back into combustion chamber for cleaner running, and from what I've been told, is just an all-around good idea because it clears the crankcase of gases that would "fight" the stroke of the piston otherwise. A good way to fight boil-over is to make sure that your fuel lines are routed in a way to avoid heat (whether to use hard metal lines or flexible rubber ones is debated, I use metal). Also, use a THICK gasket between spacer and carb, or a phenolic spacer.

I switched my 390 to an edelbrock performer carb, which has a port for PCV, so I threw away my PCV spacer and used a phenolic spacer, and have no problems with boil-over, after having problems with the stock setup for years.

Greg

 

 

Ratwell! I think the 195 may be a little warm but not a show stopper. The spacer with heater hoses is a warmer for the incoming air fuel mix and critical to prevent carburetor icing. Depends somewhat on the climate where you live. But I would not remove it for now. Check for a exhaust heat riser in the left exhaust manifold. If you have one be sure it is releasing. Choke cleaner will help free it up if it is sticky. Then get after the ignition system. I'd do the Pertronix as recommended. This is a really excellent cost effective upgrade. Do a standard electric tune up and just for grins replace the coil. If the engine would not fire with quick start down the carburetor, I do not think you have a fuel issue.
William in Atlanta

 

Thanks to all:

The pedal to the metal start-up when hot works well.
I have replaced manifold to spacer and spacer to carb gaskets and adjusted timing. Seems to be running well. Will do the Pertronix switch out next.
Snorkel is missing from the air filter canister as well as no heat riser. Will have to start checking junk yards.


Richard