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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

239 Y Block first Run

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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 05:33 PM
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rnelson664
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239 Y Block first Run

I'm about ready to fire my rebuilt 239 y block. Everything is ready to go. My question is about priming the oil pump. Is there a right and wrong way to do it? My neighbor thinks if we pull the coil and crank it a few times that should do it. Any suggestions? Thank you for you help.
Ray
 
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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Not 100% sure about the Y-Block, but every ford engine I have rebuilt, I have used a priming rod and a drill, and primed the engine prior to starting. If you have an extra dist, you can make a priming rod. Priming prior to turning over / starting is the best way to lube the parts prior firing.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Yes that works for a Y-block, atleast on my 292 it did.
 

Last edited by Snowking; Aug 27, 2007 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Be sure to use a HD 1/2" gear-reduction drill. If you use a typical 3/8" drill, you'll know you have oil pressure when the drill starts smokin'....
 
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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I don't have a spare distributor so any suggestions on how to make a priming rod?
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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For my 239 rebuilt Y-Block. I pulled the center dostributor wire and cranked it over about 30 sec.
Worked for me. That was 3 yrs ago and the old girl runs fine.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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I'll be doing the same thing with my 292.

I'll make one out of an extra 6 point socket and a LONG 1/4" drive extension. (I'm assuming you have a HEX drive....my 239 was a hex drive........if it's a blade type drive you'll have to be a little more inventive)

just be extra careful not to drop the socket into the engine after you turn it.

You don't have to spin it to 80 psi.....just enough to pressurize the system, fill the oil filter, and maybe see a little oil get to the valve train.



Cheers,

Rick
 

Last edited by HT32BSX115; Aug 28, 2007 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 08:16 PM
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Yes, it's a HEX drive. Using a 6 point socket is a great idea. I'll tape the socket to the 1/4 drive to insure I don't drop it into the engine. I don't need that problem at this point in the game!!!! Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. They are very helpful...as always.
Ray
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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They sell purpose made drivers at NAPA and Summit, PAW, etc. I would guess one for a 302/351 would work, they are hex too.

If the socket falls into the pan you're screwed!
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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By the way I went out and fooled around with the socket set and discovered that a Craftsman 1/4" drive 1/4" deep socket will work and it will not fall down thru the hole. In fact, it's just long enough.

So, just put a piece of electrical tape on the socket and extension and you're good to go.

You can either use a battery powered drill or a speed wrench and crank to your hearts desire!

I did this with my 454 BBC Mercruiser and I was able to get the oil pressure up to about 15 psi using a drill. More than enough to fill the oil filter, lines and cooler.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:18 AM
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You are awesome! Thanks for taking the time to do that. I'll let you know how it works. I think I'll give it a try this weekend.
Ray
 
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