Here is the original thread. I have come a ways since then, ordered some very expensive parts, and now I have pics for your viewing pleasure. They aren't in any order.

The engine is almost completely assembled and ready to be put back into the truck. Cleaning and painting along with a few misc parts and it is ready to go back in.

At this point I only have one question. I still don't know what to do with the turbo situation. Will a D66 work, or do I need an H2E? I haven't seen any real comparison between the turbos, just some manufacture claims. With the stage 2's, I want to be able to clean up the smoke and be able to pull manageable EGT's when towing and the lowest EGT's possible overall. What do you suggest?




Oil pan freshly removed.



Balancer/oil pump assembly.






Piston cooling nozzle. I was surprised to see these on this engine.



Connecting rods show some heating marking.















Old friction disk and pressure plate. Minimal wear, they really almost look brand new. Not bad for 225,000 miles.



Hard to believe, but this piece of crap failed. I could move the inner about 1/4" in and out and compress the springs with my hand. I doubt this is suppose to happen.

 

Here we have the friction disk and pressure plate from SBC rated for 500HP at the wheels. I should have about 530HP at the crank...so I am safe for the time being. I was told that any more power and I would be pushing this clutch to the limit for racing purposes. OFE, and with my business discount, ran me $830 shipped with the flywheel.



The new SM flywheel.



Here is a brand new oil pump. May be interesting to some. I may have a movie showing how this oil pump works, I haven't yet seen if it turned out.



The front side of the oil pump doubles as the front crank seal.



.002" clearance. An easy .003-.0035 clearance when you consider I didn't/couldn't clean the oil from the back side of the crank. Needless to say, it is in spec.



Slight scoring and pitting on the bearing. Not enough to justify replacement. No damage to the crank whatsoever.

 

The rod has had an easier life with minimal wear marks.



The big end is damage free.



Front crank snout where the oil pump and balancer ride.



Front crank snout where the oil pump and balancer ride.



The proper way to clean an oil pan...have someone else do it!



One reconditioned head coming right up.









These crappy pictures were taken to show the heads installed with new H11 head studs. They didn't turn out so well.

 

looks good! my olny recommendation is replace the rod and main bearings while your there. yes the don't look too bad and plastigauge good but new ones would be even better

 

Ill second that the bearings are not that pricey and would be cheap insurance.

 

Man I didnt know the oil pickup was that big.....lordy.....thats a honkin oil sucker. I have never had my PSD apart (not the big components) and this is a first for a look at the bottom end. I am impressed with the strength. All the mains 4-bolt, high end rod bolts, piston jets, gero oil pump.....these things are strong to say the least. Great pics by the way, hope you make the number.

BigMo

 

Your dmf went 225K miles???

 

No, it crapped out ages ago, I have been babying it along due to the cost of a new clutch. I have everything purchased to get the engine running except for the exhaust. I have ran out of funds big time. I will be running stock fuel, stock oil, and stock turbo for the time being. The turbo most come soon as my stock one is junk. The fins hit the housing.

Putting the intake/rockers on now in preparation for some steam cleaning. More pictures to come later.

 

Those are some great pics! Thanks for posting those. First time I've ever seen the bottom end of a 7.3. They are built to last!

 

What was wrong with it?

 

I also cannot see going through all that work and using the stock bearings,but thats"s just my opinion.