So just get the heater.

I understand about hoses acting differently to different oils, but I don't see veggie oil being more corrosive than petrolium Diesel.

So, once again, just get the heater.

And with all those systems listed you have to switch over to either Diesel or BioDiesel to shut it down anyway, right?
So how would switching over be an added problem if you have to do it anyway?

Now you got me thinking "who in their right mind would bother with all the expence and pain of going to SVO/WVO if it eats up our pumps, cloggs our fuel lines, and eats through our fuel tanks"?

Funny that they say veggie oil lubes the pump better, but you said it does not.

They also say it tends to clean a Diesel fuel system out, not eat it away like you said.

Also, I thought they all said that the WVO/SVO went into the stock tank and the smaller aux tank you added was for the starter fuel.
If not, what is the point of adding a 3 gallon tank for the SVO/WVO and keeping the stock tank for the PetroDiesel?

Something here is not adding up!

Please don't try to sell me ocean front property in Colorado.

 

arch,

do you pay for #2?

 

Arch, I invite you to do some reading and research at the following sites.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums

www.frybrid.com/forum/

I think you will have a differnet opinion after educating yourself.
Enjoy

 

Arch- Wow, not sure whose system you have seen or read about, but To do this right, it takes more than a 3 gallon diesel tank and a valve. If you spend $500 on a conversion for our trucks, there will be a lot of pain involved, broken parts, tow trucks, hard starting, burned up motors and the whole 9 yards.

Just heating the oil does not help the stock fuel pump. Get the oil hot to be thin enough for the pump, and the pump will burn up. Cool the oil down so the pump isn't too hot, and the viscosity is too much for the pump and it will still burn up. Some people have done this succesfully, but you have to have just the right oil at just the right temperature. And there is still no certainty at all how long the pump will last. Plus, burn up your primary pump, and you are DOA.

Veggie oil is not more corrosive than diesel. and a better word to use would be solvent like. However, Biodiesel is. Do not confuse the two, Biodiesel is chemically treated and altered. While WVO and Biodiesel are derived from the same substance, they are not the same in the end. Just like Gasoline and Diesel. They both come from the same stuff- Crude oil.

[QUOTE
And in the cooler months, if there is any amimal fats in the oil, it will solidify and plug up the tank and plug up the fuel lines.


So, once again, just get the heater.
][/QUOTE]

Not quite that easy. Even if there was a way to instantly heat all the fuel lines, the tank, the fuel filter, and the fuel in the injectors as soon as you turn the key on, WVO does not burn completely when the engine is cold. It has become well known that running WVO in a cold engine will cause extremely accelerated internal coking that will greatly diminish engine life. That is why the better systems have two completely seperate fuel systems.

I can't speak for other systems, but mine does the switching automatically and has a fast purge feature. Basically, you drive the rig just like you would any other vehicle. There is no forgetting to purge.

Actually the stock fuel system stays pretty much untouched. And We add a second usually much larger tank for WVVO.(nice having a 1,000mile range). ANd you mention several reasons why people pay for a dedicated WVO system. So you don't have clogged lines, burned up parts and eaten fuel tanks. Not sure where the eaten fuel tanks comes from though, most all modern fuel tanks are poly.

Sounds like you are reading about only those who have had bad experiances and then mixing bio and WVO traits together. Quite simply, you CAN NOT just pull your bone stock 2007 Cummins up to a local Denny's and fill'er up, or you will have problems. And the same goes for a 1985 ford 6.9 diesel and fill it with Bio.

How well this will work depends solely on 2 factors-

1. Fuel quality. How clean and well prepped is the fuel? be it diesel, biodiesel or WVO.

2. Fuel delivery system. Is the system delivering said fuel designed for said fuel?

 

If you imply Diesel #2, only if I plan on running my truck


I have read all kinds of posted material on line and too much of it is conflicting which make me question everything.

I would LOVE to attend a "LOCAL" weekend, heck, even a week long if need be, class that will show me first hand everythign there is to do with WVO/SVO and BioDiesel so that when I I know what is right and what is hype!

 

That sounds like the right way to go.

So I assume you bypass the whole stock fuel system and plumb into the fuel system just before the fuel injector pump?

I'll go look at the links provided.

 

FN74's website is at

vegistroke.com

 

[QUOTE=archangel]If you imply Diesel #2, only if I plan on running my truck

QUOTE]

ok...just wondering, because it sounds like you don't pay for it...or you buy it from some sort of charitable organization.
anyone that pays for it, understands where that money goes, and who it goes to, would be interested in a 'kit'.

if you want to see what's 'not adding up here', go after that money trail!

next question....do you like paying for it?
...investigate a 'kit' and see how you could buy a lot less of it.

my bohemoth gets better mileage on #2 then a civic gets on RUG.


0 soldiers per mile on grease!

or, you could stand on the sidelines, poke fun, sound ignorant, blah blah blah, just get another tank....blah...heater....

 

Arch- I can deffinately understand why you sound so pessimistic. You can't exactly pick up a consumers digest and read the good, the bad, and the ugly on this stuff. There is so much information out there on WVO and bio, it is hard to know what to believe. Part of that also comes from that fact that this is so new, even the "experts" are still learning and what was credible information 2 years ago is now outdated and absurd, such as oil temperature is more important than engine temperature. I can tell from a few of your other posts that you do at least know the differance between a die grinder and a tapping die.

One of the better sites I have ever come across for information(not popular opinion or guess) is Journey To Forever. There is a ton of good information there on biofuels in general, both biodiesel and vegetable oil. Think of this stuff just like getting a car, get a good one an you'll be nothing but happy. Get a bad one and you will have nothing but problems.

That is one of the key features of the PSD line of diesels(94.5-07) is that they do not have an injection pump. the only common part between my oil system and the stock fuel system are the injectors themselves. These trucks utilize what is called HEUI injection which uses High pressure engine oil and an intensifier piston inside each injector to create up to 21,000psi of injection pressure. Fuel pressure to each injector is only ~65psi.

 

Alright guys, if I process WVO into diesel (via appleseed processor, etc) do I still need a kit like what is mentioned in this thread? I've got the wife convinced we need to burn WVO so I'm doing a ton of research. Thanks Jake

 

If you make the WVO into true biodiesel, you need not make any modifications or additions to your vehicles, although it will be a good idea to carry extra fuel filters and keep and eye on the rubber fuel lines.

 

As firemediceric said, you don't need to do anything to the engine to run bio-diesel in the vehicle. I think it was 1991 when hoses were changed from rubber to materials that can handle bio. So if your vehicle is newer than 1991, you're ok and good to go. also as stated above, bio-diesel acts as a solvent, or cleaner. So, it cleans out your tanks, fuel lines and such. So the first couple of filters will have to be changed much more regularly than normal. the benefits of a kit is that you only have to have the up front cost of the kit itself. Once you have the kit, you just need to clean and de-water the wvo itself and use it as fuel. It is a process to be sure, but in the long run, it is much cheaper to run wvo than bio.
Good Luck

 

BigJake86,

Check out
http://www.lovecraftbiofuels.com/
I have their kit on my mercedes diesel. It heats the fuel using a large heat exchange/fuel filter. It runs awesome. Mixing the veggie oil with a little diesel help to thin it out. I am about to buy the kit for my 94 7.3 IDI diesel. Heating the veggie oil is needed to thin it out so the injection system can handle it.

ORB

 

I'm late to this thread, but thought my .02 might add. I have a golden fuel kit, but wish I found VEGPOWER.COM. He doesn't do "kits", but rather customizes each kit for your specific needs. I am actually adding a couple parts to my goldenfs kit from vegpower to round it out. I found the GFS kit to be a little lacking for cold weather(I live in Maine!)

 

Gaining knowledge is like having improved eye sight, the better I see the bigger the world gets and I find that there is so much more yet to see.

As a child I remember watching adults "rebuilding" engines, just slapping in pistons, rings and resurfaced heads throwing engines together.
But never measuring a thing and as for calculating compression ratios and as far as for verifying the engine had the proper quench in the chamber, they did NOTHING!

Now I know why some ran like crap and some self destructed and the stupid excuses they had for what they thought happened.

As far a biodiesel, I watching and listening and hear a lot that does sound more than a little confusing, and those attempting to sound like their one experience makes them an expert makes it even worse.


Now that I think about it I do (sort of) remember the oil pressured injection system

The were sending out the vary first booklets on "the new and improved 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel" to the dealership service departments just before I left and I think I still have it, but because I was an E4OD mechanic, I have become "disenchanted" with electronic controls, and I never got into studying the Power Stroke.