[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Aug-02 AT 10:36 AM (EST)]So what do you think guys??? Will it fit the trucks?

It looks like it might fit to me. Then you could get a custom exhaust the rest of the way?

I have a friend at a parts store. I might have them order one so I can see if it works!

Actually, after taking acloser look, I don't think it will fit the trucks. I think the trasfer case will interfer on the drivers side.....DOH!!!!

 

>So what do you think guys??? Will it fit the trucks?
>
>It looks like it might fit to me. Then you could get a
>custom exhaust the rest of the way?
>
>I have a friend at a parts store. I might have them order
>one so I can see if it works!
>
>Actually, after taking acloser look, I don't think it will
>fit the trucks. I think the trasfer case will interfer on
>the drivers side.....DOH!!!!

The transfer case will definitely interfere. My passenger side exhaust runs right in between the frame rail and the tranny. I would think though that with a little creativity it could be routed around the transfer case. My system is a bit different than HiTech's that he has on his E-450 motorhome chassis. If your parts guy buddy could order you a set, and you could just hold it up and eyeball it without buying it first that would be cool. The exit from the manifolds and that angle may be quite different from van to pick-up also. Good luck, let us know if it works please.

Ken 1998 E-350 XLT V-10 ClubWagon

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Aug-02 AT 09:54 PM (EST)]I think Ken has the better system than mine. Is the one on the F trucks worse than mine? I was not impressed with the almost right angle my driver's side pipe takes into the passenger pipe, though it does not look restrictive.

-Jim
2001 E-450 Superduty

 

This all sounds great, but wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to get the local muffler shop to bend up a new Y-pipe out of 2'5" pipe?
Its always nice to use factory stuff but I bet a y-pipe from Ford is very dear.

 

> a new Y-pipe out of 2'5" pipe?

Well, mine is 3" pipe...

That sounds like the best route to me. There are many reputable exhaust shops out there. It can probably be done for cheap.

There is at least one guy on the boards (nickdoni) who has just had the restriction cut out of his "updated" Y-pipe to gain the flow back. He states very positive results from it, both from a performance standpoint and a wallet standpoint! I've seen it too. Looks nice!

My vote is to save your dough unless you find a complete system from a salvage yard to be able to hack up a bit.

 

So, if you do cut out the restriction or fabricate a new Y pipe without the restriction, does the flutter issue come back?



2002, F250 SD, SC, 8' Bed, V10, 3.73 LS, Arizona Beige Clearcoat Metalic, ICI Stainless Step Bars, Truxedo Tonneau, Prodigy Brake Control

 

>So, if you do cut out the restriction or fabricate a new Y
>pipe without the restriction, does the flutter issue come
>back?
>
>
>
>2002, F250 SD, SC, 8' Bed, V10, 3.73 LS, Arizona Beige
>Clearcoat Metalic, ICI Stainless Step Bars, Truxedo Tonneau,
>Prodigy Brake Control

This all kinda gets back to my original question, and the reason I started looking into this. I have a small ticking noise upon cold start-up. Someone here suggested flutter. As I have an early V-10. Then I heard that Ford necked down the Y-pipe in an attempt to eradicate the flutter. Well my rig aint got no stinkin Y-pipe, so what did Ford do to help us E-Series guys with flutter ? OR ???? Did us E-series guys ever even HAVE flutter ? The mystery deepens,,,,,


Ken 98 E-350 XLT V-10 ClubWagon (sans flutter)

 

I believe that he did not have flutter to begin with. So it never came back.

Ken04, I would say that your ticking at start-up is NOT flutter. From what I understsand it only happens at RPMs higher than idle. (2000-3000, I think. Search to be sure...) Your ticking is more a valvetrain/oiling issue than anything.

Maybe the vans have different exhaust manifolds than the trucks? THAT is what causes flutter NOT the Y-pipe! The necked down Y-pipe was the (CHEAP ) fix.

 

I agree with monsta. Flutter occurs all the time (engine hot or cold) around 2100 or 2200 rpms. It sounds like you may have an engine with "piston slap". Try searching here for more info. Lots of F150 guys w/5.4L engine discussed this issue a lot!

 

>> a new Y-pipe out of 2'5" pipe?
>
>Well, mine is 3" pipe...
>
3" on both sides!?:-X23 From the manifold? 3" into what? Or is two 3" pipes into a single 3" pipe to the cat? Thats some mighty big improvement over the Factory one.

 

>I agree with monsta. Flutter occurs all the time (engine
>hot or cold) around 2100 or 2200 rpms. It sounds like you
>may have an engine with "piston slap". Try searching here for more info. Lots of F150 guys
>w/5.4L engine discussed this issue a lot!

Well I dunno but I would just about bet that it's not slap, just doesn't have that distinctive 'piston slap' sound. It's really, really a sound just like a lifter. And sure as heck, after about 10 seconds, and after the oil gets distributed all over the engine it goes away. What I need to do is pull the doghouse off some morning, stick a stethoscope on the valve cover, and start it after it's sat over night. Then I will be able to isolate the noise. I've tried Mobil 1 Super Syn 10W-30, Motocraft 5W-20, and lots of variations in between, and nothing makes any difference. I have not gone to trying a 'Slick 50' type product yet, don't know if I want to. Although I have used it in most of my other vehicles, I don't know that it ever did any good for the $30 it cost. I guess I'll just live with 10 seconds of tick, and be happy that it doesn't sound like a diesel,,,

Ken, 98 E-350 XLT V-10 ClubWagon

 

Have you tried a synthetic 0w30 just to see if it alters
the sound or duration? Mobil used to make one. Amsoil may
still.

-Jim

 

If the noise only lasts a few seconds, then you are right about it not being "the slap".

What kind of oil filter are you using? Not so much an issue of brand; just make sure it has a good anti-drainback valve.

If it's a Motorcraft filter, make sure it is the 820S. The "S" version has a silicon anti-drainback valve to keep the oil in the top-end. They used to make a plain FL-820 (non-S) version but stopped about a year ago. Some small shops/parts stores may have some of the old "non-S" stock so be careful if you shop at those kinds of places.

 

Y pipe I was under changing my oil the other day and that thing looks more like a T. Can't help but thinking it has to rob power.:-X23

 

>If the noise only lasts a few seconds, then you are right
>about it not being "the slap".
>
>What kind of oil filter are you using? Not so much an issue
>of brand; just make sure it has a good anti-drainback valve.
>
>If it's a Motorcraft filter, make sure it is the
>820S. The "S" version has a silicon anti-drainback
>valve to keep the oil in the top-end. They used to make a
>plain FL-820 (non-S) version but stopped about a year ago.
>Some small shops/parts stores may have some of the old
>"non-S" stock so be careful if you shop at those kinds of
>places.

Yessir, nothing but, until I came here I too was in the land of the uninformed and always thought the 'orange' filter was 'the man'. HA ! little did I know. Thankfully I came, I read, I learned. I always buy my Motocraft FL-820S's @ Wally World, so turn over isn't a problem. Besides, I always check the bow to be sure the anti-siphon valve is in place (again, thanks to you guys).

Ken, 98 E-350 XLT V-10 ClubWagon