6.4 PSD Stage II AFE Air Filter
#16
Originally Posted by tiereta
I still have not heard back from AFE on my intake (check engine light). Looks like they are trying to avoid all the customers looking for some resolution to their $250 investment. All I want is for it to work with my $50,000 truck! I don't think that I am asking for much.
#17
Originally Posted by SANDDEMON08
Agreed 100%
We carry the S&B filters for your 6.4
http://www.modbargains.com/zoom_img/...1200581430.jpg
We are also offering $5 off your order if you enter coupon code "5OFFSB" at checkout
Let me know if you have any questions,
Alon
#18
Hey does anyone know how to get a hold of AFE or how to fix the CEL problem with the cold air intake. I live in canada and can't get any where's with the problem at the dealer here they tell me they have never heard of a new air tube to fix the problem. Had the truck in at ford they said the intake the cause of the CEL They were wright put the stock on no more problem it's been two years and still no help. any ideas
#19
There is probably nothing wrong with the cold air intake. Early production (Job 1) 6.4's are really touchy about the intake and regeneration. Some people had better luck with the S&B Intake not throwing CELs but all trucks are different. The problem is the dpf and regeneration WITH an Intake.
#20
#21
#22
The filter media dry or wet is the biggest diffrence in the filters. Pro-Guard 7 is the only one i would use for a turbo diesel application. If your truck is stock and you plan to keep it that ways it does not warrant the cost IMO.
#24
If you do an online search for “air filter test” there is a lot of very good information. IMHO, the CAI units are NOT WORTH THE $$! Unless you are talking about a system that was specifically designed for a specific application there are very little hp/tq gains actually achieved in a street use vehicle and there are very few docs that these mfg’s can produce that actually show an increase in hp/tq in the power-band range of a relatively stock street vehicle.
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the tech's on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with it’s noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure ti terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
ANY retailer who will make a claim that on a storck (or close to stock) oem engine, if you install and aftermarket air intake of exhaust you need to have a special tune for these mods are simply making false statements- the oem system will automatically adjust for ANY fuel mixture variation you may have with such simple modifications- if the are saying it's because of their effective intake design, its because they have an intake design flaw with regards to oem sensor placement- and are correctly as a result of that design FLAW! period- no ifs ands or buts! It's science, basic, electro/mechanical engineering/science! and the laws of physics havenot changed in 100 or so years!
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the tech's on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with it’s noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure ti terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
ANY retailer who will make a claim that on a storck (or close to stock) oem engine, if you install and aftermarket air intake of exhaust you need to have a special tune for these mods are simply making false statements- the oem system will automatically adjust for ANY fuel mixture variation you may have with such simple modifications- if the are saying it's because of their effective intake design, its because they have an intake design flaw with regards to oem sensor placement- and are correctly as a result of that design FLAW! period- no ifs ands or buts! It's science, basic, electro/mechanical engineering/science! and the laws of physics havenot changed in 100 or so years!
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