only thing the tranny shop said is if they rebuild it they would put in a better shift kit.
the fluid is brown and i realize there would be some friction plate material in the bottom of the pan. they just dropped the pan and changed the filter and inspected the bottom of the pan. no wheelchair sports here, getting to old and have worn out my shoulders.

 

What kind, size, & how many metal particles, other than the clutch material, were in the pan????

Dropping the pan to change the filter & refilling the pan, only got about 1/4 - 1/3 of the old oxiized fluid out of the system, as most of it remains in the valve body, torque coverer & cooler lines, so I suppose it's better than doing nothing, but not much better, because the add pack of the new fluid will be used up quick, having to deal with all that remaining old oxidized fluid, & tryng to clean up all the gum, varnish & sludge thats likely to be in the valve body, solenoids, cooler lines, ect.

It's likely to need some help imo, so I'd really consider adding the Seafoam Trans Tune & driving it about 100 miles or so & see if things get better. If so, maybe drive it a little more, until it stops acting out, or until any improvement stops, then have a FULL fluid pump out/exchange done & see if that will last.

If you don't get any improvement with the Trans Tune & ALL new fluid, then it'll probably be fix it time.

The Seafoam Trans Tune can be had at most auto parts stores, for about $7 a pint & if your fluid was brown like you said, then I'd probably use the whole pint of Trans Tune!!!!

The shift kit the tranny shop was talking about, was probably the TSB on the valve body. There is a article on it in the "Tech Info thread, if your interested.

Let us know what you do & how it goes.

 

Quick update: trucks been working fine the past 2 days. does 90 degree weather and humidity play a part in the way it acted? still taking it to the dealer wednesday.

 

The new fluid with it's detergent add pack & filter to strain out the puterids from the old burned tranny fluid, has likely played the largest role in the improvement imo.

 

My tranny is manual, and is hard to put in first gear when cold , grinds from 2nd to 3rd, the shop told me synchros, clutch works good, I have to keep the clutch down at the light otherwise I need to push that stick hard to engage first.

 

tranny is squeeling today when your doing highway speed and let up on the gas. OD light coming back on

 

I know from experience, that when Ford says to change the fluid on those A4LD, 4E44, 4E55, etc, they are not kidding. The ATF begins to break down past 30,000 miles and no longer adequately protects the transmissions internal moving parts.

 

ive only put 18,000 on it since ive bought it. the other 33,000 was put on by the previous owner . i bought the ranger from a ford dealer at 33,000 miles

 

update: valve body gasket blew. needs new gaskets and separator plate. 560.00 parts and labor. much cheaper than the 1488.00 price i got from the tranny shop that told me it needed a complete rebuild. thanks for everones help

 

Another blown valve body gasket. Can't say that I'm all that surprised. At least you know what it is now.

 

OK, well your right, thats a lot better than the $1500 rebuild price.

The Dealer also has the machine to properly flush the tranny & cooler lines & install all new fluid.

Let us know how it does after the repair.

 

To top it off Ford decided to pay the bill even when it was 2 months out of warranty. Boy did i have a good day!

 

How about that, was this the same Dealer you bought the truck from???? Sounds like he's looking out for you, so maybe give him some business whe it's new vehicle time!!!!

Let us know how the reworked tranny does.

Good call on the valve body cddz.

 

diff dealer here in my town. seems to work fine pawpaw

 

OK, well sounds like that Dealer is REALLY looking out for you!!!!
Good to hear you seem to have it squared away now.