I have a 1971 351 Cleveland (with 2V heads) installed in a 1979 F150. It has an Edlebrock performer intake and a Carter 600 CFM 4bbl carb on it, along with a Lunati RV cam.

My plan is to pull this engine out and drop it into a 427 Cobra kit when I can afford the kit. I will probably put a 351M or 400M in the truck to replace the Cleveland.

My questions are:

What can else can I do to the Cleveland now, to increase performance in the 4x4, and that will also help later in the Cobra application?

What is the maximum I can bore this engine out and stroke it? I would like to get the dislacement up above 400ci, if possible.

Has anyone ever heard of someone boring out a Cleveland 2V head to accept the larger 4V valves? From what I understand, that is the only difference in the two heads (if you're comparing a 4V with the "closed" combustion chamber design).

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Nitrous Oxide.

 

Bill:

First, I'm a Mustang nut and have been working on my Mustangs and reading the Mustang magazines since 1986. Two months ago I bought a '71 F-350 which had its motor go bad. I got it with a partially installed 460 & C6. I removed the 460 and installed a 400M I had sitting in a '77 Ranchero that had lots of body rust and bad electrical systems, but a sweet 400M & C6.

Now about your 351C. To get to 400ci will cost you some bucks. I wouldn't overbore the block more than .030 to .040 because you weaken the block and start having overheating problems. A stroker crank would be the way to go. The easiest solution would be to get a 400M crank and have the main journals turned down to the 351C diameter. You would probably need to notch the bottoms of the cylinder bores to clear the rod bolts. I've never heard of this being done, but it might work. When companies like Coast High Performance started making 400 ci stroker 351W engines they unsed the 400M cranks because the main journal diameters on both engines are the same. For me, this would be too much work and I would opt for the 427ci stroker kit from CHP. It turns a 351W into a fire breather.

To increase your power today add headers and a good ignition sytem. A MSD 6A, Blaster coil and their 8.5mm plug wires are a good start.

The 2bbl and 4bbl Cleveland heads are entirely different castings. The 4bbl heads have much larger intake and exhaust ports to match the larger valves. They are expensive - $600 a pair - if you can find them. This is for a set of heads that need to be rebuilt. Your 2bbl heads flow great and a mild porting job (basically port matching with the intake) will wake them up for a lot less money than the 4bbl heads.

Crane and others now have roller cams for the 351C & M engines. With the right components, a finely tuned 351C should make over 400 HP.

Good Luck

Bruce

 

Bill,
I want to use the same setup you're using.
I have a 351c and smallblock C6 combo in good
condition lying around and I want to replace
my worn out 390 in my '76 truck. What are you
using for exhaust manifolds/headers? Also, any
tips you could give would be appreciated. Thanks,

Alan

 

Hi, Tex from Melbourne Australia here, I'm builing up a 351W using 400M conrods, and I need a set of NEW 400M conrods, can you guys help me locate some??? My truck is a '79 F100 351C 4V 4x4 XLT, had it since new, and is still in mint cond. A mans truck!!
PS the 351W/M is going into '66 GT Mustang

Tex

 

>Hi, Tex from Melbourne Australia here, I'm
>builing up a 351W using 400M
>conrods, and I need a set
>of NEW 400M conrods, can you
>guys help me locate some??? My
>truck is a '79 F100 351C
>4V 4x4 XLT, had it
>since new, and is still in
>mint cond. A mans truck!! PS
>the 351W/M is going into '66
>GT Mustang
>Tex

Tex,
Can't help you with your truck, but did put a 351W in a 65 Mustang. Basically a drop in, however, you may have an interference between the left exhaust manifold and the stearing box. The fix is some grinding or locating headers specifically for the application. My mistake initially was I tried to get by with a four-row 65 style radiator -- bad idea, just would not cool on hot days. I finally widened the radiator support opening to the max, reoriented the battery, regulator, and horns and dropped in a 27 inch aluminum radiator. Take this into account as you scope out the project since the selection of a water pump will be a factor ( outlet location on left or right side). The carb will also set up higher since the deck height on the 351 is more than the 289. I fixed that problem with a GT-350 type hood scoop. Definitly put in the GT bar that goes between the shock towers to minimize flex damage from the heavier engine. Lastly, if your heads are 1976 or earlier (US spec for sure) put in hardened exhaust valve seats and stainless exhaust valves while it is apart for unleaded gas. Makes for a GREAT ride -- go for it !!!
FL Panhandle

 

Mulletwagon, thanks for your advice it is much appreciated. I have even more complications though, we have to convert the Left hand drive muzzies and F trucks to right hand drive!!This makes for even more fun, especially with exhaust headers, starters, and steering etc etc etc.
The 351W, has Worked DART heads with Manley S/S valves and Crane roller rockers, A Crane retro Roller cam, 400M rods, JE Pistons, Holley Blue elec fuel pump, Performer RPM Intake,Edelbrock Alum water pump, and Barry Grant Silver Claw Carbie.Should produce about 420 hp with over 400 pounds of torque!!!!But I need NEW 400M rods, before I can assemble it all...very frustrating.

 

I have a set of 4V heads collecting dust in my garage, not the closed chamber heads mind you, but, they're just sitting there if anyones interested. email me toboggan99(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

I had this problem with my cleaveland. Good luck finding manifolds. The idiot I bought my truck from used car manifolds and CUT THE FRAME to fit them! With a call to PAW, I dropped about $130 on a set of Heddmans, but the exhaust was hard to make because the headers dumped right in front of the t-case. I would go with Hookers if I had to do it again, but if lyou motor is mostly stock, use the 400 manifolds. They should bolt right up to the 2bbl heads.

 

There are Clevo stroker kits available in Australia. www.comeracing.com has 378 kits.
Yes you can use 4V valves in 2V heads with the right machining.

 

Besides large valves the TRUE cleveland 4V heads have quenched chambers and LARGER intake and exhuast. I have a 78 F-150 4x4 I am putting a 4V cleveland into and have to seriously modify the headers to make them fit the larger ports. So don't feel bad if you run into problems.

 

Oh yeah, I think it is moroso that makes an oil restricter kit for cleveland to help it's oiling problems. I put a set in mine which requires some drilling and tapping in the block side of the main bearings but is a permanent fixture and is supposed to help a great deal. I'll find out when I get mine running.