Chevy 10 bolt in 55 f100 .
#16
Kent
Did you use the bracket above the pedal assembly that's welded in ? what power door lock parts do i need to remove ? i took off the actuator & the switch . i think I'm going to cut out the piece of firewall where the wiring harness , brakes & steering collum come through & graft it onto the truck .
thanks Scott
Did you use the bracket above the pedal assembly that's welded in ? what power door lock parts do i need to remove ? i took off the actuator & the switch . i think I'm going to cut out the piece of firewall where the wiring harness , brakes & steering collum come through & graft it onto the truck .
thanks Scott
#17
#19
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm
Depending on what size town you live in you might be able to find them locally. Check your yellow pages, look for 4x4 shops, racing shops, etc. maybe even a spring and suspension shop
Bobby
Bobby
#20
Originally Posted by fivfivf100
Kent
Did you use the bracket above the pedal assembly that's welded in ? what power door lock parts do i need to remove ? i took off the actuator & the switch . i think I'm going to cut out the piece of firewall where the wiring harness , brakes & steering collum come through & graft it onto the truck .
thanks Scott
Did you use the bracket above the pedal assembly that's welded in ? what power door lock parts do i need to remove ? i took off the actuator & the switch . i think I'm going to cut out the piece of firewall where the wiring harness , brakes & steering collum come through & graft it onto the truck .
thanks Scott
If I remember correctly, the stamped piece that holds the swinging pedal is not welded to the interior anywhere. It bolts to the firewall with the four bolts that hold the brake booster on the engine side of the firewall. The end closest to the driver may have been welded, but I think it was bolted. I modified this end to fit above the lip on the bottom of the dash panel. You might want to do a tracing of the four bolt holes and the hole for the brake actuator rod if you are going to transfer this to your truck.
All I took from the doors was the actuators, switches and the wiring harness & connectors. I didn't use the switches since I left the mechanical door handle intact. I've smoothed the outside and operate the door actuators off of a remote and hidden switches. (I saved every wire, connector, switch and electrical component off of the Camaro and reused 95% of it.)
I doubt that you would need to cut out the hole in the Camaro firewall and graft it in the truck. The hole for the bulkhead connector is easy to reproduce. It's a square hole with rounded corners and two screws at opposite corners that hold the fuse panel in place. The mating half of the connector (under hood) has a single bolt that keeps the connectors mated. Maybe just do a tracing of the holes after all the parts are removed.
Good Luck!
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