1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Chevy 10 bolt in 55 f100 .

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Old 08-01-2007, 04:54 PM
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Kent
Did you use the bracket above the pedal assembly that's welded in ? what power door lock parts do i need to remove ? i took off the actuator & the switch . i think I'm going to cut out the piece of firewall where the wiring harness , brakes & steering collum come through & graft it onto the truck .

thanks Scott
 
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Old 08-01-2007, 11:35 PM
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I have a 10 bolt from a 79 camaro in my 53 f100. It is a perfect fit. the only modification was burning off th spring perches and welding on new ones. I also changed to 342 gears. The width is about the same as the original rear end.
 
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:05 AM
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Last edited by fivfivf100; 08-02-2007 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm
Depending on what size town you live in you might be able to find them locally. Check your yellow pages, look for 4x4 shops, racing shops, etc. maybe even a spring and suspension shop

Bobby
I know Jegs and Summit have them if you can't find them locally...even JC Whitney used to carry them.
 
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Old 08-02-2007, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by fivfivf100
Kent
Did you use the bracket above the pedal assembly that's welded in ? what power door lock parts do i need to remove ? i took off the actuator & the switch . i think I'm going to cut out the piece of firewall where the wiring harness , brakes & steering collum come through & graft it onto the truck .

thanks Scott
Scott,
If I remember correctly, the stamped piece that holds the swinging pedal is not welded to the interior anywhere. It bolts to the firewall with the four bolts that hold the brake booster on the engine side of the firewall. The end closest to the driver may have been welded, but I think it was bolted. I modified this end to fit above the lip on the bottom of the dash panel. You might want to do a tracing of the four bolt holes and the hole for the brake actuator rod if you are going to transfer this to your truck.

All I took from the doors was the actuators, switches and the wiring harness & connectors. I didn't use the switches since I left the mechanical door handle intact. I've smoothed the outside and operate the door actuators off of a remote and hidden switches. (I saved every wire, connector, switch and electrical component off of the Camaro and reused 95% of it.)

I doubt that you would need to cut out the hole in the Camaro firewall and graft it in the truck. The hole for the bulkhead connector is easy to reproduce. It's a square hole with rounded corners and two screws at opposite corners that hold the fuse panel in place. The mating half of the connector (under hood) has a single bolt that keeps the connectors mated. Maybe just do a tracing of the holes after all the parts are removed.

Good Luck!
 
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