Good Fuel economy
#1
Good Fuel economy
Just got done filling the old ranger up. For those of you that dont know, 91 Ranger, 3.0L v6, 5spd Manual, 3.45s with 27" Tall Tires out back. Guesstimated over 230,000 Miles.
I've noticed that since I've finished the rinse phase of the auto-rx my economy has slightly increased. I recorded 20.6mpg last week. 50/50 mix. I drive 25 miles to work and 25 miles back. It's a mix of speeds, slowest is 35, but have to make 4-5 stops for lights, and more for morons. Fastest 64mph
This weeks fuel economy came in at 22.68 mpg With as much as I do beat on the truck (usually wind it out a couple times a day to redline ) and it's miles Im surprised it gets good gas mileage.
Only real mods are a Cotton gauze cone filter, gutted primary cat, removed secondary, added turbo muffler, and simple side exit exhaust (2.5"), 20" Shorter Belt (removed AC compressor), and no mechanical fan. (have electric). Has all fresh ignition components- new plugs, wires, ICM, dist, etc.
Anti Fuel economy mods include the leaking rear pass side manifold, and prolly the CEL for the MAP (prolly because of lack of mechanical fan, AC comp, and exhaust, has fresh MAP sensor)
Im wondering if I can get 25mpg or more if I drive the car a little less aggressively and use synthetic oils in engine, and rear. IIRC Mecron V was a synthetic blend, and Im running that and synrcomesh in the Trans. Prolly go to a synthetic oil in the rear, as I see the new seal I put on pass side axle must have gotten torn, as it's got a small leak. prolly fix this weekend
matt
I've noticed that since I've finished the rinse phase of the auto-rx my economy has slightly increased. I recorded 20.6mpg last week. 50/50 mix. I drive 25 miles to work and 25 miles back. It's a mix of speeds, slowest is 35, but have to make 4-5 stops for lights, and more for morons. Fastest 64mph
This weeks fuel economy came in at 22.68 mpg With as much as I do beat on the truck (usually wind it out a couple times a day to redline ) and it's miles Im surprised it gets good gas mileage.
Only real mods are a Cotton gauze cone filter, gutted primary cat, removed secondary, added turbo muffler, and simple side exit exhaust (2.5"), 20" Shorter Belt (removed AC compressor), and no mechanical fan. (have electric). Has all fresh ignition components- new plugs, wires, ICM, dist, etc.
Anti Fuel economy mods include the leaking rear pass side manifold, and prolly the CEL for the MAP (prolly because of lack of mechanical fan, AC comp, and exhaust, has fresh MAP sensor)
Im wondering if I can get 25mpg or more if I drive the car a little less aggressively and use synthetic oils in engine, and rear. IIRC Mecron V was a synthetic blend, and Im running that and synrcomesh in the Trans. Prolly go to a synthetic oil in the rear, as I see the new seal I put on pass side axle must have gotten torn, as it's got a small leak. prolly fix this weekend
matt
Last edited by BuffmanLT1; 07-26-2007 at 10:04 PM.
#2
Down a touch this week. 22.1 mpg. I use basically only shell gas. Uusally 89 octane. Just replaced that leaky seal today. They didn't have full synthetic oil in stock at the autostore (well 1quart of what I wanted), so went with a synthetic blend. Guess I'll see if it helps any this week when I get gas.
#3
Ya might squeeze a little bit more with the synthetics, and I remember Rangerpilot stating that he installed a vaccum guage to judge his acceleration and cruising speeds/revs. I think it basically trains you to ease the gas pedal as you accelerate to minimize the drop in intake vaccum. RP might be able to elaborate.
Fred
Fred
#4
^^ Yeah i know all about that. Put one in my roadmaster. I ease into the throttle 90% of the driving. I usually shift at 3k rpm unless I need to speed up a little.
I need to do a compression test now that the rinse phase of my auto-rx treatment is done. I also wanted to make sure the headgasket isn't compromised on the driver's side. Not sure if it's seeping oil or coolant, but based on what I can put on my finger it feels like oil. Im wanting to pull the engine in the fall and do the headgaskets and the freeze plugs (one weeps).
I counted the stops. If the light god isn't in my favor I have to make at least 10 stops on my trip. 4 if I can catch the lights just right. Im taking a trip to Detroit in a couple weeks, so It will be interesting to see what I can achieve on a long constant speed trip. Not bad as mentioned for a guesstimated 230K plus miles.
I need to do a compression test now that the rinse phase of my auto-rx treatment is done. I also wanted to make sure the headgasket isn't compromised on the driver's side. Not sure if it's seeping oil or coolant, but based on what I can put on my finger it feels like oil. Im wanting to pull the engine in the fall and do the headgaskets and the freeze plugs (one weeps).
I counted the stops. If the light god isn't in my favor I have to make at least 10 stops on my trip. 4 if I can catch the lights just right. Im taking a trip to Detroit in a couple weeks, so It will be interesting to see what I can achieve on a long constant speed trip. Not bad as mentioned for a guesstimated 230K plus miles.
#5
Can't see that she owes ya much. Testament to the truck and good upkeep. On your trip to Detroit, try leaving a few minutes earlier and keep her at 55-60 to see what happens. If that gets old after a while, throw in a Sammy Haggar CD with 'I Cant Drive 55' as everybody else fly's by.
Don't know what you door sticker says for tire pressure, but mine says 30psi and I can run 34 without any problems with the tires and pick up a bit more on gas, but the ride is a bit harsher.
Fred
Don't know what you door sticker says for tire pressure, but mine says 30psi and I can run 34 without any problems with the tires and pick up a bit more on gas, but the ride is a bit harsher.
Fred
#6
Originally Posted by fflintstone
Can't see that she owes ya much. Testament to the truck and good upkeep. On your trip to Detroit, try leaving a few minutes earlier and keep her at 55-60 to see what happens. If that gets old after a while, throw in a Sammy Haggar CD with 'I Cant Drive 55' as everybody else fly's by.
Don't know what you door sticker says for tire pressure, but mine says 30psi and I can run 34 without any problems with the tires and pick up a bit more on gas, but the ride is a bit harsher.
Fred
Don't know what you door sticker says for tire pressure, but mine says 30psi and I can run 34 without any problems with the tires and pick up a bit more on gas, but the ride is a bit harsher.
Fred
The front tires are 195/70/14 IIRC. I keep them at 35psi. The rears are 27" tall BFG all terrians. I keep em at 30ish.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by F250OBX
My Brother installed a performance chip in his 'stang into the OBDII port, and an added bonus to quicker times was what he called "dramatically improved fuel mileage". At the expense of emissions, I suppose. I wonder if there is anything similar for the trucks?
Fred
#10
Originally Posted by fflintstone
OH YEAH!! You should hang around this board f2500BX, the preferred unit for the Ranger is the Bamma programmer from Superchips. All kinds of old threads about them. Just type in Bama in the thread search. One of the cheif vendors and programmers is a member of the forum. I believe his name is Doug but his screen name escapes me. Track down Wendell Borror. He's got one and just loves it. I've got one on my shopping wish list. The extra mpg's is a byproduct of the power tunning. I don't belive it affects emissions enough to push them to the fail point. Who knows why Ford settled on the stock tune that comes on your computer, but it's not optimal.
Fred
Fred
#11
I take it there is no programmer for the OBD1 trucks is there? BTW thanks to the exhaust shop installing the muffler too close to the driveshaft many moons ago, the ranger now has a top bearable speed of about 80mph. Since it starts to vibe. That or something in the rear end isn't kosher, but that has many fresh parts. Ohh well just a winter truck.
#12
this weeks fuel economy 22.71 Had a couple WOT blasts and some 80mph visits. air pressure was low in the front tires at 31psi. Pumped em up to 34psi, and the rears up to 39 (All terrians T/As said they can go up to 50psi?!) for this week. Even greased up the ujoints(the rear was dry!!) I think Im heading to Warren MI this next weekend, so I'll have to see what I can get on an extended trip.
Motor oil still using Valvoline 10w30 conventional oil.
Motor oil still using Valvoline 10w30 conventional oil.
#13
Originally Posted by BuffmanLT1
this weeks fuel economy 22.71 Had a couple WOT blasts and some 80mph visits. air pressure was low in the front tires at 31psi. Pumped em up to 34psi, and the rears up to 39 (All terrians T/As said they can go up to 50psi?!) for this week. Even greased up the ujoints(the rear was dry!!) I think Im heading to Warren MI this next weekend, so I'll have to see what I can get on an extended trip.
Motor oil still using Valvoline 10w30 conventional oil.
Motor oil still using Valvoline 10w30 conventional oil.
Fred
#14
Originally Posted by fflintstone
OH YEAH!! You should hang around this board f2500BX, the preferred unit for the Ranger is the Bamma programmer from Superchips. Fred
Oh, someone above was talking about not speeding- I was just driving along doing my regular 5mph over, this guy came FLYING by- at least 120. When I got to my exit, I had to go around a firetruck- you guessed it, the dummy was there with his car damaged and someone else's car too.
#15
Non fuel related, but I noticed today why those caliper pins aren't the best design. I wondered why lately I've been locking up the rear brakes before the fronts. I was under there today, and noticed the two pins on driver's side had almost come all the way out. Gottem back in and bent em a little to stay, and now the truck brakes properly.
I had to fix the rear leaf spring the other week. the front part that wraps around the bushing on the mount somehow broke off. the "C" part. So luckily the piece was still there. A little welding and it's fine. A heck of a lot better than $65 for one from junk yard for now.
I had to fix the rear leaf spring the other week. the front part that wraps around the bushing on the mount somehow broke off. the "C" part. So luckily the piece was still there. A little welding and it's fine. A heck of a lot better than $65 for one from junk yard for now.