I have a 1980 f100 short-bed 2wd. It came stock with a 302 2bbl and the "piece of crap" SROD-"single rail-over-drive" 4spd standard. I now want to make it more than my "daily driver". I aquired a 351c with 2v heads and C6 automatic rather cheap, and so the question is, I want to know if there's going to be that much work swapping the 302 for a 351c. Also, going from a stick to automatic transmission. Besides possible motor mount relocation, and some linkage work, is there anything else I should be aware of before atttempting this interchange?

Thx

Cj

 

Well, to start things off I'm going to say i've never done this... But... Since the C is a much heavier motor, you may need to change suspension, but it might be ok.

Motormounts are a must, and you will probably need to find accessory brackets. The brackets off of an "M" block (351/400) will most likely work. They are cheap and abundant...

You will either have to find a panel out of an automatic to cover up the hole where the stick came through the floor or you may be able to just "Patch it up" too.

You will also have to find a automatic column, or you could convert it to floor shift, and skip covering up the hole.

Another concern may be your driveshaft. It may be too long?? You will also have to get rid of the clutch and the linkages as well.

It seems like alot to do, but if you have a donor truck, it's not hard at all!!!

That's all I can think of, but like I said above, it is not much work if you have the time and parts...

Thanks
Skud

 

sell the 351c and tranny, the 302 AND THAT TRANNY, BUY A 351W.
it will bolt to engine mounts, the tranny will be your choice- do you like shifting? you can modify crossmember to fit most tranny's.exhaust manifolds are slightly different as the 351 is wider than the 302.
overall, an easy swap, and you can get parts easier and cheaper than the 351c.

 

>
>
> Well, to start things
>off I'm going to say
>i've never done this... But...
>Since the C is a
>much heavier motor, you may
>need to change suspension, but
>it might be ok.
>
> Motormounts are a must,
>and you will probably need
>to find accessory brackets. The
>brackets off of an "M"
>block (351/400) will most likely
>work. They are cheap and
>abundant...
>
> You will either have
>to find a panel out
>of an automatic to cover
>up the hole where the
>stick came through the floor
>or you may be able
>to just "Patch it up"
>too.
>
> You will also have
>to find a automatic column,
>or you could convert it
>to floor shift, and skip
>covering up the hole.
>
> Another concern may be
>your driveshaft. It may be
>too long?? You will also
>have to get rid of
>the clutch and the linkages
>as well.
>
> It seems like alot
>to do, but if you
>have a donor truck, it's
>not hard at all!!!
>
> That's all I can
>think of, but like I
>said above, it is not
>much work if you have
>the time and parts...
>
> Thanks
>Skud

First off without sounding condensending do you know if you have a Cleveland or "M" 351? Remember, Ford NEVER put a Cleveland in a truck. If you actually have a Cleveland motor it uses the same motor mounts AND bellhousing as the 302/351W. So the swap should be a snap. You can NOT use 351/400 M accessories mounts on a 351 C or 351W the M motors were a 1" taller from the centerline.

As far as switching from your 4 speed to an auto you may have to modify or move the tranny crossmember and there may be a drive shaft length AND spline issue. You can use any aftermarket auto shifter that mounts to the floor where your original stick shift came through.

Like said before just build a Windsor, less headaches in the long run!

 

Yes, I'm positive its a 351c. I tore down the motor myself. The stock pistons were in it, they were stamped 351c on the side, plus the C6 bell-housing is one that only fits to a small-block. Both were connected when I got them. I am aware than 351c's were only put in mustang's, torino's etc, cars. I have never heard of a truck with a factory 351c. I do understand parts ore more expensive for 351c because of their 70-74 production line run. This is my project truck, I want it to be "different". Although a Windsor would be less headache and cheeper to maintain down the road, a 351c is a better motor for creating power. Please feel free to email me.

Thanx guys!

CJ

 

Sounds like a sweet setup! The 351C is a little harder to get parts for, but it will also make more muscle and stand up to the added punishment better. The motor mounts are the same 302 to 351C as stated, get a B&M or Lokar shifter (B&M Megashifter, ratchet style is great) and place it where you want. That way you can eliminate your linkage. Ford sells an adapter to move your front mounted accessories to accomodate the taller, wider move from the 302 to the 351. There is only 40 lbs difference between the 302 and 351W, but the C is a little beefier block and has beefier heads. Get a good set of 4V heads (or even better, Edelbrock aluminum heads), add a cam, Edelbrock intake, and about a 650 cfm Edelbrock carb and you got yourself a real nice truck engine. Oh, and don't forget to add the MSD ignition while you've got it tore apart.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 31-Jan-01 AT 11:55 PM (EST)[/font][p]God, I'm going to get reamed for this one!!! LOL!! I'm already in the dog house with the "m" boys!!!

I'm not sure if I posted this here but in case I'm being redundant, I apolgize in advance.
Back In HS(graduated in '80) I would defend the Cleveland to death. Even though it had already been dead a few years.

Now there is no reason to build a Cleveland EXCEPT to be different. The oiling system needs minor attention to make it a performance motor. The thin walled blocks are actually more prone to cracking then the W blocks and the 4V heads aren't that impressive except for HIGH RPM use and more cubes. The 2v heads aren't up to the current aftermarket for W heads, and by the time you locate and build Aussie 2v heads (Jim Grubs Motorsports, Valencia, Ca)you could have some kick a$$ AFR or TFSR heads that otflow AND out velocity the best 4v C heads(except the mega bucks Yates heads)

No, a Cleveland is NOT a higher performance motor anymore with the incredible Chevy like support the Windsor now enjoys. And I'm not aware of ANY Eldebrock heads for Clevelands even though with some mods you could run a W style aftermarket head on a Cleveland block, but why would you??

Me jumps off soap box now!!

P.S. good score on the baby C-6

 

Well, I will agree that, the 351w is a motor who can take much abuse, as the 351w will handle abuse. This being the reason why I put a small-block windsor in my 84 f250 4x4. It can handle the wear and tear, plus I need something that can handle the heat here in AZ. But, it is well- known fact that a Stock 351w reguardless or 2-4bbl, will significantly produce less power than a 351c. A 351c with 2v heads will produce around 250hp, vs about 205 with a 351w. Since I'm making this truck a daily driver, and not a full-blown drag truck, This is why I chose the challenge of putting a 351c in this 1980 f100. Overall- with a little modification, this motor will give me a little more power than my 351w would.

Cj

 

CJ, I respectfully disagree. While the "stock" 351 camparo may be correct(even though I don't rember any 250HP 351 2bbls, doesn't mean they didn't exist) "a slightly modified" W will outperform your C. Just look at the "mild" 351 Lightning motors with CHEAPLY available GT-40 iron heads ($500 used). These motors made 250 HP fuel injected AND smog legal. Throw in a better cam and a good 4bbl intake and carb. and 320+ HP would be a cinch. This aint no finicky drag motor either!

Hey, good luck with your project and it was great bs'ing with you on a civil note. I hope the swap info was good and let me know how it turns out.

 

CJ- I used to drive a mustang with 351C in it, they can scream! Even if you have small port heads, get yourself an aluminum dual plane intake and run a four barrel carb. An electronic ignition would help too. Since the C likes to rev, a looser converter or deeper gears will let you use those rpms to your advantage. DF

 

> CJ- I used to drive
>a mustang with 351C in
>it, they can scream! Even
>if you have small port
>heads, get yourself an aluminum
>dual plane intake and run
>a four barrel carb. An
>electronic ignition would help too.
>Since the C likes to
>rev, a looser converter or
>deeper gears will let you
>use those rpms to your
>advantage. DF

 

DF, I'm having the 2v heads ported and polished, I would have went with 4v heads, but since its a truck, the 2v heads seems to have flow a little less, giving me the power I need for low"for towing or pulling". I have a dual-plane edelbrock performer going on, have not decided on carb, either 650cfm edelbrock, or 659cfm carter afb. I still like the 351c more than the 351w for my daily driver applications. Sorry IVSTANG.

CJ

 

I like your attitude in keeping the 351c . Why follow the crowd and go with the windsors. I put a 351c in my truck because the 302 was a dog and wouldn't allow me to pass a semi uphill, cause it was well worn and abused. I had a C in the garage just sitting there, was swapped from the stang for another C, and decided to put it to use. I am very happy with the performance of the stang and truck even though I still have 2100 2v carbs on them. I will be putting a dual plane manifold on the stang as the 2100 seems to max at 5500 rpm. The truck will smoke the 32's with no problem. I am not looking to drag race the truck or to enter mud bogs but its great on the highway (loves to cruise at 65) and pulls from the lights like crazy. With these engines you don't need more than an intake, cam, and carb. Who needs hi-flow aftermarket heads if you can't use them to their full potential. Just make a good midrange rpm motor for daily use and you won't be disappointed.

'79 F150 Stepside 4x4
351C-2V, 4 speed, 32/11.50 BFG MT's, 3.50 gears
'73 Mustang Grande
351C-2V, c-6

 

CJ I'm doing a similar swap right now. I have a 1980 F150 4x4 and i"m also putting a 351c and a c6 in. From everything I have researched the 2bbl heads are the best when you put a 4bbl intake and carb. that gives you more torque. i fyou have not already realized you are going to need a rear sump oil pan and pickup from a 351M. also while you are in there go ahead and slap a high volume oil pump in there. I was lucky and picked up a milidon 8 qt pan for $75 new in the box with the pickup. that there was a $280 dollar oil pan.

1980 F150 4x4
351C C6
2" suspension, 3" body
35'tires
this whole set up only cost me $1500 and the motor and tranny are Ford factory rebuild with 40K on them

 

Thanx for the info olblue. If there's anything else that you ran into while doing the swap, let me know. Did you have to get heavier duty small-block motor mounts? Let me know anything and everything, I start this swap of mine in 1 week!


Thanx

CJ