Can you switch out the clip on 57-58-59 Fords? I think I read that you can change the clip in less time than swaping the grills.My 59 panel has a badly rusted painted grill.What came with painted grills and what with chrome?
Was this just an option? Where would you look for an after market chrome or stainless grill today? I must sound like a four year old with multiple questions but I'm just Grill Jumb,that's kinda like real jumb but mostly about grills.Thanks for any help.Mike

 

Mike,

I don't know of anyone that has aftermarket grills for full metal fenders for 57-60. (I think someone has fiberglass fenders.) If your grill does not have a lot of Bondo or serious rust damage, consider restoring it. Used grills do come up on eBay; I got a nice chrome grill for my '60 pickup there not long ago.

The fenders for '57 and '58 are different from '59/'60; they have a recess for the round turn signal housing. '59/60 had the turn signal in the grill. Repair panels are available for the back of the fenders, which was prone to rust out on all four years.

Cal

 

Cal, thanks for the infomation.I may just leave the 59 front end-the fenders are in good shape but the hood is rusty mostly on the brace that goes from hinge to hinge.I had thought about the change because the 57 has single headlights and looks better to me,the 59 has a good look also.The paint jobs that paint everything the same color-bumpers and grill the same a body looks good on some. I thinks some folks calls this "dipped".What is a fair price for a chrome grill? Cheap as possible comes to mind,right ?Thanks Mike

 

The last 1960 grill that I noticed sold for $66 and look to be in good condition. I've seen them go for over $250, but most of them seem to sell for around $100. These are chrome grills. I'm not sure about painted.

I think there's a lot to be said for trying to restore one of these old guys to something near to stock. Too many of them have been chopped up and turned into "Rat Rods". My panel truck was in the process of being "converted" when I rescued it.

Cal

 

Thanks Cal, I had a stock 31 Model A standard coupe(no rumble seat) and enjoyed if from 72-79.New baby came along and I made the right choice and kept the baby-but still missed the A. I want to keep the panel in a stock looking condition but want better V8 and steering.I hate chopped vehicles and I'm OK with rat rods if made from a bunch of rounded up parts but cannot see ruining an old body to invent a rat rod.I was so consumed in the A remaining stock I was willing to repaint to the orig. green color and I don't really like a green car-but that would have restored it back to the factory color.That's how wrapped up I was in the A to be original.But I have always had an eye for the hot rods-wanted to own one but would not cut up one that was still original.Can't have your cake and eat it too. I felt good about bringing the panel home from the crusher yard.The guys sets the good ones aside until someone like us shows up to take the puppy home and make it healthy again.Thanks for the help, Mike

 

Take a Real close look @ the '57-'58s (everything is the Same w/ Round Turn Signals, except for the Hood Badges & the Grilles ['57 Single H/L, '58 Dual H/L], which makes for extreme interchangablility) & the '59-'60s (Totally redisigned front sheet metal for Both years, taller hoods w/ deeper front beaks, narrower grilles, wider vallance W/ Rectangualr Turn Signals, interchangability is good between the '59-'60 & Can Not, as individual parts, interchange w/ the '57-'58s).

Painted Grilles were used on Standard Cabs out of the factory, Chrome Grilles were Special Order Options & standard for Custom Cabs.

Restoration of your original Painted Grille is your Best option, as there isn't really all that much out there yet in the after market for our "Orphan Years" trucks.

 

My '60 panel has '57 or '58 fenders, leaving me with half of the round turn signal socket on each side. Looks cheesy to my eye, but apparently works mechanically with the rest of the front clip.

Cal

 

How'd they get the Wider Rectangular Turn Signal cut-out Vallance to fit then if the didn't Cut off the Round Trurn signal cut-outs?

If you ever decide you wish to get rid of the '57-'58 fenders, let me know, Please!
I know where a right side '59 fender is @ present, if you want it & it's in Excellent shape.

 

Yes, it's generally faster to swap the whole clip than just the grille. Reason: the clip is held on by just a handful of bolts, most of which are easy to reach. (Except maybe the nuts holding the rear of the fenders to the cab.) The grille is attached with about a billion bolts that go into nuts which are held by clips. Since they have mostly rusted tight, when you try to take them off the nuts break loose from the clips and just spin. It's easier to see where they are and reach them with the clip either front down or upside down. Sometimes you can stop the nuts from spinning with Vise-grips, then twist the bolts until they break or unscrew. Or reach the nut or bolt with a die-grinder and cutoff wheel. There's usually a couple up in the corners that are impossible, and the only solution is a hacksaw blade between the grille and fenders.

But, one time I did get the grille off in one piece without taking anything else off, so I could fill a couple of pinholes and paint it. If you live someplace dry or the truck has been babied, this may be possible.

I saw a very nice grille on eBay a while back that had been chromed and never installed. it went for something like $600 That's not really unreasonable; even starting with a perfect grille, chroming could run that kind of money unless you can send it to someplace without health, safety and environmental laws.

When I painted that '59 grille I did it gloss black, which looked pretty good when combined with a pair of chrome headlight doors.

 

Not very well in my opinion, you be the judge:



The interesting thing is that the fender lines up with the grill pretty well:



I would not have thought that the shape of the edge of a '57 grill was the same as a '60. (There doesn't seem to be any bondo on the fender behind the grill.)

I'll PM you about the fenders.

Cal

 

Thanks guys, thought the grill would be a job to remove.Mine has some rust holes on the botom lip.I guess that holds water there.Only dentist are good at working upside down and backwards which is what that grill will be like on the truck.The only way I know to handle cancer rust is to cut out and weld in new metal.Is there anything to these ads about any primer that actually stops rust.I have seen a bush on chemical that says it neturalizes the rust.Isn't this bologna?? One of my back doors is ate up on the bottom and I think the only real fix is to cut out and weld in new metal.We have a local guy that can do that if I can't swing it. I'm very rusty on my welding skills and I don't see this as a job for a rookie.Thanks again, Mike

 

Ospho works but you will need to paint soon and have a compatable paint. It does not work by itself for a long time (ie a few weeks maybe) Another option is to get a fiberglass front clip from US Body unfortunatly for you it is a 60 front clip/ 60 hood. I have expirence with taking the front apart approx 110 bolts and only a few survived. Still have the scares to prove it. Maybe this will help the website is www.usbodysource.com

 

Thanks Chloichina ,I did not know anything would really stop rust.thanks Mike

 

Phosphoric acid (found in Ospho, metal prep stuff, naval jelly, and cola drinks) dissolves rust. If you can dunk a rusty part in phosphoric acid solution and wait long enough, it'll take every bit of rust out, leaving clean pits where there was deep rust. On bigger parts, it's really only practical for surface rust or as a follow-up to sandblasting.

I patched some rust pinholes on the previously-mentioned grille by filling in the back with "plastic steel" epoxy (after treating the rust with some phosporic acid stuff like naval jelly). If you take out the rust, and can protect the metal from any more moisture reaching it, a waterproof filler can make a nearly permanent repair. Marine bondo seems good too; I soldered in some patches on an inner fender and filled the seams with marine body filler as an experiment, and after almost 15 years they're still holding up.

 

Thanks to all that have written.My computer was zapped a few weeks back so I Jacked up the radiator cap and drove a new one under it-that worked.Have been out of action but do thank all for input.The DMV guy found the beginning of my vin. # but I will need to be careful cleaning the frame rail.I want to clean it without doing away with the numbers. My # was on the passenger side nearly straight down from the firewall. Thanks Mike-new user name-