Dead cylender?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 2
From: Ringgold GA.
Dead cylender?
Hey fellas, I'm new to the V-6's and have a few questions. I just bought an '89 Bronco II with the 2.9 litre. The previous owner said he had replaced the engine about 4-5 years ago. after it was installed he said it had a bad miss to it. He was going to take it back out and go through it but never got around to finishing. the truck has sat for about 4 years with the spark plugs removed, but it has been under a carport.
O.K. now the problem. I did a compression test and found 180 PSI. on 5 cyl's but the 6th barely moved the guage at all. I will remove the heads tommorrow but I was wondering if any of y'all have ever had anything like this happen.
One more thing. The truck came with a short block that he rebuilt, problem with it is one of the rod bolts snapped off while he was torqueing it down.
Mileage on the engine in the truck is unknown but with that kind of compression one would tend to think it is in good shape, hopefully the loss is in the head.
Any insight or advise would be greatly appreciated.
O.K. now the problem. I did a compression test and found 180 PSI. on 5 cyl's but the 6th barely moved the guage at all. I will remove the heads tommorrow but I was wondering if any of y'all have ever had anything like this happen.
One more thing. The truck came with a short block that he rebuilt, problem with it is one of the rod bolts snapped off while he was torqueing it down.
Mileage on the engine in the truck is unknown but with that kind of compression one would tend to think it is in good shape, hopefully the loss is in the head.
Any insight or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
First thing I would do is to pull the valve cover off the bank with the dead cylinder and check the rocker arms, pushrods and lifters for that cylinder to eliminate the possibilty that you might have a bent pushrod, broken rocker arm or collapsed lifter. If all seems to be functioning, then I'd move on to pulling the head. Look for a burnt valve, although a holed piston or broken ring is always a possibility.
So you're saying that you also have a spare short block with a broken rod bolt? You can usually get away with simply popping out the broken rod bolt and replacing it which can usually be done with the piston and rod still in place, but the best way is to take the piston and rod out of the block and replace both bolts with new ones and then have the rod resized, as bolt replacement can distort the end of the rod. (Me, I would go for the easy fix first...
)
So you're saying that you also have a spare short block with a broken rod bolt? You can usually get away with simply popping out the broken rod bolt and replacing it which can usually be done with the piston and rod still in place, but the best way is to take the piston and rod out of the block and replace both bolts with new ones and then have the rod resized, as bolt replacement can distort the end of the rod. (Me, I would go for the easy fix first...
)
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 2
From: Ringgold GA.
Just a little update on the engine. We discovered that it had a burnt valve, wornout cam bearings and the lifters on the offending cylender werent it the the best shape. All things considered I have taken the heads in to be reworked and will be useing the new shortblock. Maybe a bit more work now but at least i'll have a new engine in it and wont have to worry with it running on borrowed time. Once its up and running and passes emissions I plan on installing a set of headers, highflow cats and a new exhaust pipe but thats a little bit down the raod. need to get her running good first. Hopefully this weekend.
