Strictly Diesel Dipstick Adapter Repair Kit

out of stock

Any other suggestions?

 

Will this work?

Oil Level Gauge Adapter Repair Kit for 1994 - 2003

 

That is nearly the same as what I did last month.

There is some talk about the inner part warping and not holding the o ring. I am starting to believe it.

 

Good gawd that piece is three hundred freaking dollars!!!

Damn, maybe if I ever hit the lottery!

Stewart

 

Stewart, I think there selling it that high because most other repairs end up leaking and then to do it right you have to pull the motor to drop the pan and most people dont want to do that.

 

Whoo hoo, My first aftermarket mod. Strictly Diesel adapter arrived in short order after I saved up for it. Sorry no pics, SD has good pics already. I only have about 20 miles on it but I'll let you know how it works out. So far so good.

 

Figures my "signature thread" with over 50,000 views is about a Dipstick!



FWIW my fix is still holding strong!

Post up some pictures and a description of the install of that shiny fancy dipstick holster!

 

Don't sweat the Hijack I do appreciate the info. One of the first things I read about this deal was don't crank down on the big nut when the leak starts, well, I got out the big channel locks before I read anything. I suspect there was some distortion of the inner part from that event.
At any rate I use the truck daily to earn a living and piddling in the customers driveway don't get me any browney points.

cheers
doug

 

Guess I've just been lucky. No leak in over 215,000 miles.

That sure is a classy-looking piece to simply hide down on the side of the pan, but it sure looks like it'll work!
Pop

 

Dipstick or tennis shoe shim: Take your pick!

Hijack?

Musta misread the post. Tweren't no hijackin' going on!

Stewart

 

No way Pop, I can show it off without even popping the hood.
I do appreciate the quick edit. This sounds allot better.

I'll try to get a pic if I ever get off before dark again.

Now that gushing has stopped I need to join a new thread and address the smaller leaks. Thanx to FTE I have some idea where to start looking.

 

I was nervous about this repair. I have read all about it, I read this whole thread and more. It sounded harder than it was!
I got the dipstick tube O-ring, dipstick tube adapter O-ring, and new flange nut from the local Ford Dealer (what a rip-off at $47). Then last Sunday I went and got some needle nose Vise Grips and made a Widget. I disconnected the batteries and took off the starter. Then took the dipstick tube and flange nut off, removed the old O-ring's from the tube and adapter. Cleaned things up with rag and Q-tips. Put every thing back together using the new parts and using a little Loctite on the threads.
I figured the original O-ring's lasted 16 years and 280000 miles, I was happy with that! And If a second set of original type O-rings lasted that long I would be doing good. If not, It will be easier to repair a second time if it wasn't all gooped up with sealers.
After repair, I started the engine. About 10 minutes later I was disappointed to see a drip of oil on the flange nut. I carefully tightened the flange nut as much as I dared.
On Monday morning, after my 30+ mile drive to work, I was very disappointed to see oil all over the bottom of the truck. I was not looking forward to trying this repair again! After the drive home, the oil mess didn't look much worse. It seemed the leak had sealed some. So I hosed the oil off. Tuesday morning after driving to work, there was just a little oil that ran from the flange nut to the bottom of the oil pan. I hosed it off and it has not leaked since.
While making the repair, I did notice that the O-ring didn't protrude very much from the grove in the adapter. As mentioned in earlier posts, the O-ring swells in oil. I think the O-ring is designed to easily fit in the adaptor grove for ease of assembly, then swell to tightly fill the grove and mating surface sealing the assembly.
The moral to this story is; I don't believe the extra seal and RTV gooped all over are necessary. And if it leaks a little after repair, DO NOT PANNIC!!! It will probably seal after a day or two of driving.
IMHO This is an easy repair. Be prepared, but don't over think it.

 

Sounds like great feedback!

Thanks, Dave.

BTW, a great first post, too!

Pop

 

It's great to see this thread still helping people!

 

An oldie by a goodie should never die. My block is out of the truck and I have started the rebuild. Unfortunatly the pan is already on but still much easier to work on than in the truck. My question is should I do anything extra to this problem area before I put the engine back in? Or is the stock set up good enough?