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390 flywheel thick/thin

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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 04:47 AM
  #16  
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Beemer, I am missing something in your post. You say "to keep the throw out arm angle correct the pivot must be lowered with the window cut back".
I don't understand why it would have to be lowered. Doesn't everything work of the same centerline as the engine?
Just curious.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 01:15 PM
  #17  
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"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
Yes your correct but in the wrong direction.
The thicker flywheel sets the throwout bearing farther
away from the motor hence changing the angle of the
fork. To correct this the fork pivot should be lowered or shall
I say shortened. You with me here?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
To correct this the fork pivot should be lowered or shall
I say shortened. You with me here?
That's the confusion I think - the pivot needs to be shortened, so the lever is still parallel with the flywheel.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #19  
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Allright, i found the spec sheet I have but it lists everything EXCEPT the min. thickness on an FE flywheel.

Oh well.

As for the pivot height, that's something i'm actually working with now trying to get the hydraulic clutch to work with the arm and TOB meant to work with the mechanical linkage. The arm ratio between the 84 and up arms is slightly different from the 83 and down arms AND it's a different pivot style/height.

The height of the pivot from the throw out arm to the rear face of the bellhousing needs to be such that the arm sits about 5* forward of 90* when the TOB is 1/16" off of the clutch fingers. The rest of the linkage is modified from there to provide the correct clutch airgap when disengaged.

Justin
 
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 12:45 AM
  #20  
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"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
Without stealing this thread I just wanted to add what I have done to a 391 flywheel to a 410 motor. Sorry if I mucked thing up with my added .02 cents.
 
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