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Armor All is only good for tires. Quit using it inside ASAP. I learned when my 67 F100, original dash, cracked to pieces after 34 trouble free years.
Maybe your armor all was past its expiration date. I don't have any cracks on the dash of my 64 truck. Maybe it has to do with the metal dashboards they used in the 60's.
I like Turtle Wax Ice, it goes on and off super easy and gives a great shine. As mentioned though it is not used to buff or polish out grime or water spots. I have used Meguiar's Gold Class wax and that also works well, but like all other waxes you can't apply it to the plastic like you can the Ice. When I really want my truck to shine I do three steps. First I clay bar the truck to remove all the grime that really sticks to the paint. Then I use Meguiar's Show Car Glaze to get that nice deep, rich, color from the paint. Then to finish it off I either use Meguiar's Gold Class Wax or Turtle wax Ice for extra shine and protection. It's a lot of work, but the truck looks freakin awesome when I'm finished.
I just bought a soft tonneau for my truck from a local upholstery shop that does custom auto/truck work. They make the whole cover, frame and all right there. They said absolutely NO Armor All on the cover or else it will crack the cover.
Thats what I used as well.. Ive used duragloss/zaino/5 step mothers/3 step meguires... On my truck Ive only used nu-finish.... On my show/race car Ive just been using meguires gold class lately.. the truck shines nice..Nu-finish I was skeptical about because of all the stupic comercials...But I tried it on my tuck when I got it have havent looked back... Holds its shine..
Another WINNER in my book is CLAY MAGIC.. On older paint that stuff is MONEY.and again another product that the comercials did more harm than good..
I'll never use wax again on a daily driver truck. Wax looks great with multiple layers on a dark color paint job, but it just doesn't last nearly as long a polymer sealant. I like wax on my Porsche, but I always use Klasse on my trucks and the wife's Suburban.
Maybe your armor all was past its expiration date. I don't have any cracks on the dash of my 64 truck. Maybe it has to do with the metal dashboards they used in the 60's.
It was a funny thing. The truck was all original, just neglected. I got it all cleaned up. The dash was original and nearly perfect. Within a couple weeks of the Armor All treatment it got brittle and split in several places. That's my experience anyway. Now I just use a lightly dampened and well wrung out micro fiber on the interior plastics and vinyls.
I like Klasse all in one. It goes on easy and bonds with the clear coat. If you have a dark color you will want to follow up with a high quality carnauba wax such as P21S. The combination of the two will give you outstanding depth of color. Good luck.
Here is a GREAT item to get for big vehicles. It works terrific with Klasse All In One. This device makes the job MUCH easier, faster while doing a much better job than I can do by hand.
clic pic
The stock buffer pad is just so so, however there are backing pads available with the hook part of hook and loop that can be used with 3M and Meguiars pads.
The whole shebang ends up costing about a hundred and a half, but I've been using mine for at least 5 years and feel that it is well worth it.
Im going to have to try that Clay Magic stuff. My hood is covered in water spots that will just not come out. I cleaned a few spots (tree sap) the other day with rubbing alcohol, and they are the only clean spots on the hood. Looks brand new from 20 feet away...but dont get close...
Oh well...It is 10 years old and has never seen wax before...
Another vote for turtle wax ice, after using turtle wax paste the ice was a alot easier to apply take off and the shine was awesome. Another thing you can apply it to anything on the truck, black plastic mirrors door handles etc. Makes them look good and doesn't leave a white mark.
Im going to have to try that Clay Magic stuff. My hood is covered in water spots that will just not come out. I cleaned a few spots (tree sap) the other day with rubbing alcohol, and they are the only clean spots on the hood. Looks brand new from 20 feet away...but dont get close...
Oh well...It is 10 years old and has never seen wax before...
I use Meguiars NXT, but always use a clay bar before waxing, it's amazing the crap the clay bar gets out of your paint , plus after you apply the wax is shine is DEEP.
2005, F350 King ranch 6.0 PSD crew cab, long bed. 4:10, auto Oxford white / Arizona beige
It was a funny thing. The truck was all original, just neglected. I got it all cleaned up. The dash was original and nearly perfect. Within a couple weeks of the Armor All treatment it got brittle and split in several places. That's my experience anyway.
This is the kind of thing I was told about by that detailer. He said the Armor-all penetrates too deeply and causes the problem stated. He says the Formula 2001 only shines the top and doesn't penetrate and ruin the material from the inside.
Originally Posted by MadMedic20
For the interior I use Pledge lemon scent. Its not as greasy as Armour All. Makes everything look nice and smell lemony fresh.
I use dupont teflon car wax for my sd 2000 f250 and with her being red it really shines lasts a long time. For your first application do 2 coats and you wont regret it. Wont go back to regular paste wax