03 V10 Pulling 5th Wheel Camper
#17
#19
#20
#23
#24
Just want to bump this for anyone who still has towing questions. It doesn't matter how much a truck can pull, the REAL question is "Can I stop this combo when towing?"!!
First, if you are towing a trailer without brakes, NEVER exceed the GVWR of the truck (it's on the door sticker). An unbraked trailer is the same as cargo in the bed, dead weight.
Now if your trailer has functioning brakes on it, you can follow the tow ratings from the manufactuer. Towing ratings are devised from a set of perameters set forth from the SAE. All the vehicle manufactures use these rules when advertising their vehicles, and are the recommendations that they live by to keep the liabilty lawyers at bay, an keeps uneducated people from tearing their stuff to shreds.
From what I've read, there are three catagories that the ratings are derived from. Startability, gradability, and stopabilty. The last on is the most important, obviously!
But here is my take on the ratings. Say you have a F-250 2wd. The max combined weight rating for any model in this group may be 20,000 lbs. But that's a diesel with auto trans and 4.10 axle. You have a 5.4L with auto and 3.73 axle. Ratings will be lower because of horsepower/torque being much lower than diesel. But wait, same brakes on both trucks! You won't set any records getting the trailer down the road, but at least you are not over-taxing the combo to get it stopped. So if you need to on occassion pull something heavier than your rating, just make sure it doesn't exceed the highest rating for any truck in it's like group.
Most states are cracking down on trailer towers and checking them for proper braking systems, giving out fines for improperly equipped rigs. I went thru a weigh station in Minnesota a few months ago and the DOT was jacking up a bunch of utility trailers and checking brakes. Most of the guys stopped were commercial pickups/vans pulling two axle trailers. I'll bet the DOT ruined alot of paychecks for that week.
But as a 'big truck' driver, I know for a fact that brakes is the #1 cause for fines during roadside inspections. Safety is no accident!!
First, if you are towing a trailer without brakes, NEVER exceed the GVWR of the truck (it's on the door sticker). An unbraked trailer is the same as cargo in the bed, dead weight.
Now if your trailer has functioning brakes on it, you can follow the tow ratings from the manufactuer. Towing ratings are devised from a set of perameters set forth from the SAE. All the vehicle manufactures use these rules when advertising their vehicles, and are the recommendations that they live by to keep the liabilty lawyers at bay, an keeps uneducated people from tearing their stuff to shreds.
From what I've read, there are three catagories that the ratings are derived from. Startability, gradability, and stopabilty. The last on is the most important, obviously!
But here is my take on the ratings. Say you have a F-250 2wd. The max combined weight rating for any model in this group may be 20,000 lbs. But that's a diesel with auto trans and 4.10 axle. You have a 5.4L with auto and 3.73 axle. Ratings will be lower because of horsepower/torque being much lower than diesel. But wait, same brakes on both trucks! You won't set any records getting the trailer down the road, but at least you are not over-taxing the combo to get it stopped. So if you need to on occassion pull something heavier than your rating, just make sure it doesn't exceed the highest rating for any truck in it's like group.
Most states are cracking down on trailer towers and checking them for proper braking systems, giving out fines for improperly equipped rigs. I went thru a weigh station in Minnesota a few months ago and the DOT was jacking up a bunch of utility trailers and checking brakes. Most of the guys stopped were commercial pickups/vans pulling two axle trailers. I'll bet the DOT ruined alot of paychecks for that week.
But as a 'big truck' driver, I know for a fact that brakes is the #1 cause for fines during roadside inspections. Safety is no accident!!
#25
what do mean by,
if it keeps shifting in and out of OD it is better to lock it out
what do you mean by lock it out?
Thanks
Brad
#26
You lock the OD out when you press the tow button on the end of your shift lever. You have to make sure your tranny does not Yo Yo in and out of OD repeatedly. Leave it in OD on the flat and small inclines. Lock it out on long grades or when the tranny Yo Yo's.
#27
I am looking to buy a camper this week, a 04 challenger around 30' long. Im concerned about the weight. My owners manual says that my 03, f350, v-10, auto trans, SRW, crew cab, 4x4 w/ 3.73 gears can only pull around 9900 lbs. This trailer is claiming to weigh empty 9780 lbs w/ 12700 total weight. I am wondering if i keep it lightly loaded, and im not driving in the mountains just a few hills here and there will I be alright or is this a big no no. I guess im hoping the trailer really doesnt weigh quite as much as they claim and that my owners manual has some safety factor in its rating. I'm looking to only pull this trailer maybe a few times a month & only within 50 -75 miles from my home. Please tell what you think, does alot of people pull beyond the manual limits? And should i not buy this trailer due to weight limits?
Down the road if you can afford to get 4:30 gears, you will notice a big improvement. It will up your max trailer weight by 3000lbs.
s
#28
Just a slight correction, that truck is rated for 10,200 lb 5th wheel. I had the same setup before my '08. Towed well. Locked out OD and let the truck and transmission.do their thing. Cruised at 2600 RPMs and hit the hills at 4000 rpms. The engine will do what you ask of it.
Down the road if you can afford to get 4:30 gears, you will notice a big improvement. It will up your max trailer weight by 3000lbs.
s
Down the road if you can afford to get 4:30 gears, you will notice a big improvement. It will up your max trailer weight by 3000lbs.
s
Driving with the over drive off.
#29
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