I am considering buying a Lincoln 175HD mig welder. I plan to use it to weld up a bumper for my truck about 3/16 or 1/4 and other things. It says it can weld 1/2 inch steel. Does anyone know anything about them? Any information will help.
Thanks. Heres a link

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100395926

 

I have never liked Lincoln MIG machines, they just don't seem to make a nice weld. Not to mention they are EXPENSIVE, especially for the end results. If you go with a Miller, I think you will be quite happy. Check out what they have at your local Praxair distributor, I think there is a sale going on now, or starting next week for most of the machines they normally carry. Usually those guys are nice and will cut you a decent break if you're spending a few bucks with them.

 

I agree with ford6, I have used both and I like the Miller MIGs better. They seem to weld better. Now for stick I like either one.

 

I have a miller 175 at work, it makes nice welds even for a crappy welder like me. I have a cheep $300 welder at home and the miller is well worth the money if i had to do it again i would spend the $700 for the miller.
I dont like the flux core wire the gas is better

 

Check into www.cyberweld.com
Always go for the largest welder you
think you'll ever use, more power is better
than not enough.
Check into Miller's 180 Millermatic for $779.
At 135 A it has a 30% duty cycle
Use the duty cycle not the welders maximum
amperage output when selecting a welder.

Miller 251 w/30A
Miller 350 Synchrowave

 

Lincoln makes great welders if you get into the industrial 460V 3-phase type like the PowerWave. They also used to make great AC/DC stick welders. If you can find an old Lincoln AC/DC in great shape...grab it!
The good thing is you've chosen a 230V welder. Most 110V units wont weld much more than sheetmetal. The Millermatic 180 that Beemer mentioned is a great welder or even step up to the MM210. I definitely second the opinion to buy the largest welder your wallet can afford.

 

Miller just released the 212 replacing their 210, this would be a good time to locate and snag one at your LWS as they change over, heck you might get one on sale during model change over.
Check around like cyberweld for the best price given they still have 210's NOS.
Many 210 owners including welding shops will hang on to their 210's as they are that good and trouble free.
They did the same thing with their 252 vs 251 with only minor changes like torch lead angled down, single latch vs double on side door, BFD then raise their prices.
On used I would be careful unless it is from someone you know, ebay and your on your own.
I got my 251 w/30A Spoolmatic, two bottle base, two regulators out the door at $2,506 after tax, it ain't going to happen now with the 252.

 

I just bought a Lincoln 140C. It's my first machine. Does this mean I can blame the machine for mistakes?

Hmm I guess this means I'll have to practice more. If I can get good with the Lincoln then I should really do well when I move up.

Reg

 

Both brand machines will weld good it's a "Chebby / Ford thing".
Bad welders will always blame the equipment every time. Granted higher dollar machines will have a better more stable feed system as well infinite adjustability vs tap controls.
Congrats, we all started at zero with welding experience.
Practice but learn the right way to weld as bad welding habits are hard to break.

Miller 350 Synchrowave Tig
Miller 251 w/30A spoolmatic Tig

 

Thanks for the input. I sort of figured as much but being a novice didn't want to comment. Sort of like a carpenter cursing the hammer for bent nails.

I plan to fit welding classes into my rotating shift work schedule as you are very much correct regarding bad habits. They are a bear to break once learned.

Reg

 

I bought the Lincoln 170T a little more than a decade ago and am very pleased with it. It does weld 1/2 plate as advertised but it's best to do that in two passes for best penetration.

I've moved since then and the place I'm in now doesn't have 230V in the garage, so I have been using my Lincoln 135SP which is a 120V welder, and that's fine up to about 1/4" with fluxcore.

I've used shielded gas (argon, argon-co2, tri-mix) as well as fluxcore with the 170T, and it's worked fine for all my needs, even thing sheet metal, though controlling the wire feed rate at that a slow speed for body work requires a careful touch and some getting used to.

I've even welded aluminum with mine, by switching the polarity of the ground clamp/torch, using aluminum wire, and using pure argon in the tank.

 

frederic; hows the little tike doing with his electric car?
I can production weld aluminum with the Miller 251 with the 30A spool gun.
For clean show looking aluminum welding the 350 Synchrowave steps in, i'll take Tig over Mig any day.
The 251 can max out at 42 amps primary, 350 at 131 amps primary. Not your first time starter welders more like welder numbers 8 and 9 for me.

 

That's beyond my skills and machine but very reassuring to know that it is possible with the MIG machines. I am working toward getting my skills to the point that I can justify an engine driven welder.

Regardless of opinions to the contrary I am happy with my Lincoln thus far.

Reg

 

Just remember in the future you want to Tig or Mig aluminum is to have a machine with ***** (amps) as aluminum eats them you do not want a cold joint.
Take the manufactures specs in maximum material thickness listed for aluminum in amps and deduct the material thickness by 30% to get a sound weld. They stretch the truth a bit not allowing for input voltage drop to the machine plus they test under perfect conditions for said material thickness the machine can weld.

Loading up a 250 amp Tig cost more than a 350 amp Tig machine with many options as standard hence why I have a 350 amp Tig, sames goes with the Mig machine at 251 amps. These are home use machines.

 

I see. I appreciate the advice.

Should I continue and improve my next welder will be an engine driven Lincoln or Miller. I strongly dislike wires and I don't like being tied to home or to a wall. I regularly curse my corded tools. Also with both I will have machines that together cover the spectrum.

A great piece of welding advice regarding machine choice is, "You can't drive a tack with a sledgehammer and you can't drive a spike with a tack hammer." That is, use (buy) a machine that is designed for the job at hand. There is no one welder that does it all. I've definitely gotten that message here.

From people with both 110V and 220V machines one will regularly reach for his 110V whereas another his 220V. 6 of one half a dozen of another.

Besides portability, power source availability and price another reason I chose 110V is because it does limit me as to metal thickness. That way I know whether through overconfidence or carelessness I won't weld anything significantly load bearing like a trailer or vehicle structural member. Only after my talent improves and work inspected and approved by a someone qualified will I move on to such jobs. That engine drive welder will then be my "graduation gift".

Thanks Beemer and all your advice is both educational and humbling.


Reg