1998 F250 LD 5.4 triton no spark
#1
1998 F250 LD 5.4 triton no spark
Here's the story. I took the boat out on the water and when I returned to the boat ramp, the truck wouldn't start. After cranking it awhile it finally started to load the boat and get it home, just to never start again. I can say this truck has never left me stranded in 20 years, always breaks down in the driveway.
I tried to start it with starting fluid with no luck, so I figured it was a spark issue. I replaced all plugs and coil packs since its been 10 years since I had done it last, but still will not start. I took a plug out and grounded against metal in engine compartment and cranks engine over, no spark was generated on the plug.
My question is, what else do I need to check or replace that would be the culprit for no spark? I was told the crankshaft sensor could possibly be the issue or camshaft sensor? I'm not sure which ones this engine has or both and if a failure would cause no spark.
Ideas anyone?
I tried to start it with starting fluid with no luck, so I figured it was a spark issue. I replaced all plugs and coil packs since its been 10 years since I had done it last, but still will not start. I took a plug out and grounded against metal in engine compartment and cranks engine over, no spark was generated on the plug.
My question is, what else do I need to check or replace that would be the culprit for no spark? I was told the crankshaft sensor could possibly be the issue or camshaft sensor? I'm not sure which ones this engine has or both and if a failure would cause no spark.
Ideas anyone?
#2
1. Check the Crank sensor for corrosion by unplugging and reseating a few times.
2. Does the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition On? Not looking for fuel but a power up issue.
3. Open fuse holder/ blown fuse because the fuse powers both the ignition coils and fuel injectors.
4. Computer power supply relay seating or fault.
Don't get complacent because we all will fail some time.
Your lucky you got 20 years.
Good luck.
2. Does the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition On? Not looking for fuel but a power up issue.
3. Open fuse holder/ blown fuse because the fuse powers both the ignition coils and fuel injectors.
4. Computer power supply relay seating or fault.
Don't get complacent because we all will fail some time.
Your lucky you got 20 years.
Good luck.
#3
What fuses should I look at? I went through most of them and did not see any issues. I have relays but I don't know how to check those for failures. I can hear the fuel pump for a second or two .. Just isn't load, but I hear the buzzing
#4
There are no fuses that can cause a "no spark" issue without also causing collateral symptoms.
Did you verify that you have switched battery power on the COPs at the red wire when ignition switch is in RUN/START?
Observe the check engine light when the key is turned from OFF to RUN? Is it on (as it is supposed to be)? If so, crank the engine - does the check engine light go off and the tach register something during cranking? If not, then the PCM isn't picking up a crank sensor signal.
Did you verify that you have switched battery power on the COPs at the red wire when ignition switch is in RUN/START?
Observe the check engine light when the key is turned from OFF to RUN? Is it on (as it is supposed to be)? If so, crank the engine - does the check engine light go off and the tach register something during cranking? If not, then the PCM isn't picking up a crank sensor signal.
#7
Observe the check engine light when the key is turned from OFF to RUN? Is it on (as it is supposed to be)? If so, crank the engine - does the check engine light go off and the tach register something during cranking? If not, then the PCM isn't picking up a crank sensor signal.
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#8
To verify the Coils and Injectors are getting 12 volts, use a voltmeter. or at least a test light..
The Ignition has to be turned on to Run position because that fused power comes through the Ignition switch..
Forget the Tach on this issue. The motor has to run first.
If there is power to the Coils, the motor has to run in order to fire them. This is done by reference to the Crank sensor. If that sensor does not work, nothing else will work.
ABS has nothing to do with the engine control system. It too gets power through the Ignition switch so it's working if the self diagnostic are completing and Light goes out...
The Ignition has to be turned on to Run position because that fused power comes through the Ignition switch..
Forget the Tach on this issue. The motor has to run first.
If there is power to the Coils, the motor has to run in order to fire them. This is done by reference to the Crank sensor. If that sensor does not work, nothing else will work.
ABS has nothing to do with the engine control system. It too gets power through the Ignition switch so it's working if the self diagnostic are completing and Light goes out...
#9
#10
I want to thank everyone who replied to this post. I just got finished replacing the crankshaft sensor and ol' red started on first attempt. So now I have a new sensor and plugs ans coils. My son is 15 and I plan on handing this truck off to him when he gets his license.. I just have afew more things I need to address before doing so.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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Feardeere7
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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05-08-2014 08:22 AM