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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

truck won't crank

 
  #16  
Old 06-08-2007, 07:16 PM
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Yea the starter turned it over a little and then when I put on new solenoid -cablew--the spark was big at battery end and now I have no lights,no nothing,---I can't find a fuse and what would burn out everything like that? BILL
 
  #17  
Old 06-09-2007, 01:12 AM
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Ok if the spark was at the battery + or - post that is neither normal or good....... There should never be a spark there........ as a spark means a bad connection and the electricity jumps across the gap causing the spark...... so check the battery posts to make sure they are clean as well as the battery connectors...... clean them with a wire brush dab on some vaseline and tighten them up.
 
  #18  
Old 06-09-2007, 01:31 AM
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A big spark when hooking up the battery cables means a big short some where.
Once the smoke clears you should be able to find it.....
 
  #19  
Old 06-09-2007, 09:19 AM
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No start

Go back to the last change you made. Sounds like the solenoid, look for possible short to ground. I've had old battery leads that appear tight, but having cleaned been so many times, the hole becomes to large to tightly clamp around the battery post. Your flash may have burned a small gauge wire. Check wiring in start circuits for burnt wiring. Hope this helps,chuck
 
  #20  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuthin
He said the starter growled. That sounds to me like it's turning but just not spinning fast enough to start the engine.

Good Point Karen,
I missed that.
doug
 
  #21  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:04 AM
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Just out of curiosity, is the battery connected correctly? I know it sounds silly, but the PO of my truck had installed the battery backwards just because of the color of the original cables. The truck had previously been converted to 12v and was no longer positive ground. That can cook your entire system and would make quite a spark when connected.
 
  #22  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by doug51f1
Just out of curiosity, is the battery connected correctly? I know it sounds silly, but the PO of my truck had installed the battery backwards just because of the color of the original cables. The truck had previously been converted to 12v and was no longer positive ground. That can cook your entire system and would make quite a spark when connected.

Good thought.........batteries do not like to be hooked up backwards.....all kind of bad stuff happens...sparks, smoke,crying etc
 
  #23  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:20 AM
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I would check the batt post at the new installed solinoid to see if it twisted around while tightening and the cable end is now touching the inner fender.
 
  #24  
Old 06-09-2007, 06:14 PM
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arctic y block--I think the starter wire touched the inner fender and the bare area shorted--best of my knowledge now!!! I will check the solenoid and it is just weird all this is happening since I got home.
The battery is in correct--The solenoid to starter wire is not too great and I will replace that. How do I tell what burnt up?
 
  #25  
Old 06-09-2007, 06:23 PM
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If you've got burned wires, the visual appearance of the insulation should tell you. If the starter solenoid shorted, you're going to want to look really closely at the starter itself as well.

I'd start at the solenoid and visually inspect anything that connects to or lies close to those wires.
 
  #26  
Old 06-09-2007, 06:26 PM
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Bill, has your key switch been doing any thing strange prior to your having these issues?
 
  #27  
Old 06-09-2007, 08:35 PM
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No problems before this.I mean the truck didn't run since 1988. I had the truck up and running and have had no starting problems whatso-ever. I know I have old wires but was buying them as I went-and my dillemma is what do I look for to find out what or where the power blew out from. I have a totally stock 56 with 12 volt. I hoped there was a resistor or fuse to replace and back to work--but they must not have had 1 in this truck.It is a 4 speed and radio delete and heater delete--so it is very basic.
I am wondering if the starter solenoid could be a 6 volt or ??? Bill
 
  #28  
Old 06-09-2007, 10:38 PM
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where exactly did you see this big spark? at the battery terminal? If so, I would think you have a dead short somewhere, as has been suggested. That would indicate either reversed polarity, or a serious amp draw, as in a short. Start tracing all your positive wires. Your charging the battery aside, I suggest you put a load tester on it, as a dead cell is a possibility.
 
  #29  
Old 06-10-2007, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by WALFORD'S 56
arctic y block--I think the starter wire touched the inner fender and the bare area shorted--best of my knowledge now!!! I will check the solenoid and it is just weird all this is happening since I got home.
The battery is in correct--The solenoid to starter wire is not too great and I will replace that. How do I tell what burnt up?
I would start at the solinoid with a test light and work back to the ign switch till ya have no juice. Start your repaires there.
 
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by WALFORD'S 56
arctic y block--I think the starter wire touched the inner fender and the bare area shorted--best of my knowledge now!!! I will check the solenoid and it is just weird all this is happening since I got home.
The battery is in correct--The solenoid to starter wire is not too great and I will replace that. How do I tell what burnt up?
I would start at the solenoid with a test light and work back to the ign switch till ya find a spot that has no juice. Repair and go on from there. If it still sparks at the batt post when putting batt clamp on after fixing short at solenoid than unplug the voltage regulator. The points burn and stick shut in these and cause a short and drain the batt. This can happen and still charge when running. When ya find your short and or open circuits and fix them now you will prolly have to polarize the generator.
 

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