Stewart

I guess you posted while I was in the process. We seem to be pretty much on the same page
Ben

 

I got the 250 springs for the front of my 2004 X psd 6.0 4x4. XLT
Can I just put 350 blocks in the rear with the stock spring?
I also plan on 4 billsteins.
I have factory swaybars.

 

ben, how much lift did your F codes give you in the rear. Those may look like they might help. How much were they and were did you buy them?

 

I eat
The measurement from the ground to the fender lip of the wheel well opening at the center of the wheel for OEM springs vs. V and F code springs are as follows:

OEM:---Front 37in.---Rear 39in.

V&F:---Front 39in.---Rear 40in.

Change: Frnt +2in.---Rear +1in

When I hook up my 6000# TT with a WD hitch I get 39in. all around.

These measurements are plus or minus 1/8in. I don't think trying to measure these dimensions with extreme accuracy is reasonable due to the wheel lip being rounded, fuel load, etc.

I purchased my V & F springs at the local dealer. I live in Naples FL which is kind of a high priced touristy area. I would think in a larger Metro area a dealer might be more competitive.

Pictures of my EX and the springs including an invoice are available at :

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/558111238bzRiOW

Ben

____________________
03 Ex Ltd 7.3L PSD 4x4, V&F codes, Helwig, Ranchos

 

I ear hybrids

After re-reading the entire thread, I see what you are looking for. The unmodded F codes will not give you 2in. of lift. If you modifyed them or some B codes with a one or two leaves from your old spring, a couple of spracers and the cutoff end the anti-wrap leaf from your old springs that should produce about 2in. of lift.
Ben

 

Ben, did you use the OEM rear blocks? I'm curious because when I did the upgrade, I swapped out to the 3.5" tapered blocks and I only gained 1/2 inch when compared to your setup.

Front V code springs: Part #2C3Z-5310-HA: 39" from ground to lip
Rear B code springs: Part #3C3Z-5560-CB: with 3.5" tapered block, 40 1/2"

Stewart

 

Yes, I used the OEM blocks.
That sounds about right. B codes should give +1/2in. and your 3.5in. block adds an additional 1in. equals a gain of 1.5in. in height.

My F codes were expected to gain .75in. and in my opinion .25in. is within the tolerance to be expected from numerous possible differences in before and after measurements, i.e. level base to measure from, round fender lip to measure to, whose doing the measuring, paralax, fuel load, wind, temp, etc.


Ben

 

I didn't realize the F's gave that much more lift when compared to the B's. Then again, I do get tunnel vision when searching about a particular subject, so I could have come across that info and never even realized it! LOL, the problems of getting old and set in yer ways.

Stewart

PS - I agree about the +/- .25 inches in accuracy.

 

I just upgraded to B and V codes and I removed the factory block and added 4" Block to the rear to level out the back end. I also added the Hellwig and rund Bilstein 5150 Shocks. I also have a levelling kit spring pack added to the B and V Codes for the 33 x 12.5" super swampers I run.

Adding a bigger rear block is a must if you use the B and V code spring package. It is at least 1.5" lower in the rear after the change.

 

Has anybody ever measured the F350 stock spacer block? There are references in this thread to it being 3.5" and 4" and I would like to know definitively which it is. When I called my local Ford parts guy on Saturday he said the F250 block is 2" which I believe as I have measured this on my Ex. He said the F350 block is a 4" block and is the only other stock block available from Ford. Does someone know for sure if it's 3.5" or 4"??

 

I believe there are several different blocks available from Ford.

I measured my tapered blocks before putting them on the Excursion, and since they are tapered and not squared, one side was of course bigger than the other, but even still, the block was 3.5"

Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA

Stewart

 

I just got back from 250 trip.; New shocks and sway bar helpped, but alas, still too much wander for my blood. I am interested in the Landyot radius bar but have been unable to get an email to Ken. I don't have the 50 postings necessary to contact him from this site and I can't seem to log in to supermotors.net. Does any one know how I can contact him?

JDT

 

Try this link, lots of info. I'll be interested to hear your impressions if you decide to install them.

http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/for...ot-radius-rods

 

I have signed up on Supermotors, Every time I try and email him. It tells me I need to sign in. I have created two different accounts and tried from home and the office, but still can't seem to get an email to him.

I leave this Saturday for a 12-day southeast trip with my trailer and I don't even know if I can make it happen that fast, but I would love to have them installed prior to leaving.

Any other ideas on how to contact him?

I wonder if someone could send him my email and ask him to contact me?? john@jdtinc.com

Just a thought.

 

The alternative is to swap out your stock Excursion rear springs with those from the F250/F350? That will definitely cure the wander and is the problem that the radius rods address in the first place. I paid at total of $312 for the springs directly from Ford.