Alright I did the dirty and now I need help. The story goes (as it always does) by starting with a friend saying "come on man just one time" and it's that one time it gets ya. And so here I am 8 weeks after it happend with warranty work waiting to be done... The hole in the block is the size of a baseball (#4cyl) and there's not just one, but another one (about the size of a golf ball) on the other side (#8cyl) My first question- once the new, well remanufactured (what good that is) stock L engine comes in should I just go ahead (sense the block is out of the truck) and put new rods in? even with a remaining 6000 mile warranty left? or should I just wait it out? My other question is what brand of gauges (A/f, boost, and ***) should I buy? sense I don't want this happening again.


upgrades
01 L
7 or 8# lower pulley "9 1/4
Jlp filter
Hidden chip (probably diablo)
Bassani x pipe- duel
Trans line mod an 4x4 pan

 

If I were you I would see if you could pay the difference in money and get them to put a built short block in it!
Then as long as your tuning is good you'll be able to beat on it all you want and make more power safely.

 

ya I wish I could but i'd reather not pay the $3500 for a new block if i don't have to. The old motor was still under warranty.

 

If you have the opportunity to put better rods in I would go for it.
That will save you from having to pull the motor later and be a lot stronger.

But I see your point of a free motor.Thats a lot less then $3500,,,lol.

 

Wow! I gotta ask bro, what kind of warranty covers an engine with a pulley and chip on it?

Also, without a MAF upgrade, I'm sure you were pegging your MAF with that much boost. Even if your tune had a safe a/f mix with low timing, pegging the voltage on a MAF sensor will spell destruction.

Stewart

 

Haha well lets just say the truck had a little over 900 miles (on my watch) when it blew. So to say the least I was pretty upset at the dealer. But to make a long story short they're doing the right thing to make this right for me. Suposably I do have the MAF upgrade (at least thats what I was told), but how do I make sure? Is there any special writing I can look for on it?

 

Again I ask, what kind of warranty covers an engine that's had the boost levels increased through a pulley change, and the timing and a/f changed via a performance chip?

The dealership didn't care when they saw the bigger crank pulley? They didn't mind when they found the chip plugged into the PCM?

Unless the dealership provided and installed your upgrades, I think it's ridiculous to be upset with the dealership because your engine blew up.

Stewart

 

Kinda sounds like he might have bought it from them that way.(with the mods on it).

 

Yeah, I was wondering...

I think you can see where I was headed with my posts though!

Stewart

 

If the "hidden chip" is a flash program, then the dealership wouldn't know it.

Being that it was used, there's no tellin' what the previous owner(s) did to it....maybe a little giggle juice was on board at one time?

Are they sending you a complete longblock; from the throttle body to the oil pan?

 

Ya I gotcha stewart. But no the upgrades were already added to my truck when I bought it.

I'm not a 100% sure where the chip is located, but from what I'm told it's located near the gas shut off switch (I havn't had the time to go nosy around there). But now thinking about it why would it be located there?

I keep on being told (by the dealer) that it's going to be a long block, but I've been told so much crap now it's to a point now where I won't believe it till I see it.

I have a story though for everyone. My truck had one owner before me, the man had every upgrade I do now but heres the thing he also ran not a 200 not a 300, but a 400 shot of juice! And the original motor lasted an amazing 50000 miles. He blew that motor (to say the least) an then added the new motor (now the second) with a standard ford 3yr/36000mile warranty and drove that for 20000 when he traded it in. He clames that he never ran nitrous on the new (now old) motor, but that stands sketchy with me..

 

How is that possible to run a 400 shot? Had to be dry, I don't think wet shots work well over 250-300. Maybe I'm wrong but my jaw hit the floor when I saw that.

 

But does everyone agree that puting rods in is the best thing for a stock L engine? What kind of hp can I expect to with stand with that? and what will be the next thing to blow?...pistons maybe?? but even they are forged...

488/512 to date (well used to be.. )- no nos

thanks everyone for helpin me out

 

I would get it rebuilt for free, wait out the warranty, then buy a new shortblock, and sell your "newly" rebuilt stock shortblock for some $$.

 

New Manley rods (standard forged rods for the L, not the billet ones) with the ARP fasteners are rated for 900hp.

Most people who tear into or build new L blocks will also replace the valves, pistons, piston rings etc. They also port the heads and get new cams and such.

IF you can talk them into replacing the stock rods with Manley's, you won't have to worry about replacing anything else to beef it up. Replacing parts for more power is one thing, but for strength? For the power levels you've intimated you'll be running, you'll be set for the life of your engine.

Stewart