master cylinder problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
master cylinder problem
ok first off i've done master cylinders before, just not on a 95 f150. so heres how it went... oh and its a 4.9l 4 speed with over drive
well i was having trouble shifting and the little clippy thing in the loop on the end of the rod that goes through the firewall broke and fell out completly so i figured it was time for a change. i went out and purchased a master cylinder kit and swaped out the old one as pertaining to the installation guide. so i got all the bubbles out and closed off the bleeder port and went to try and shift and the pedal goes to the floor but doesnt spring back. so i figured well maby i did somthing wrong. so i fooled around with it for the next 3 hours and here i am wondering if i did somthing wrong or did i just end up with a dud master cylinder.
well i was having trouble shifting and the little clippy thing in the loop on the end of the rod that goes through the firewall broke and fell out completly so i figured it was time for a change. i went out and purchased a master cylinder kit and swaped out the old one as pertaining to the installation guide. so i got all the bubbles out and closed off the bleeder port and went to try and shift and the pedal goes to the floor but doesnt spring back. so i figured well maby i did somthing wrong. so i fooled around with it for the next 3 hours and here i am wondering if i did somthing wrong or did i just end up with a dud master cylinder.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
Should only take about 15 minutes if you're bleeding the clutch master cylinder by yourself.
Remove the rubber bladder inside the clutch master cylinder. Fill with brake fluid to about 1 inch from the top. Put the top back on so no brake fluid splashes out. Keep the clutch master cylinder topped off with brake fluid during the bleeding process.
With bleeder valve closed, pump the cluch pedal 10 times.
Hold the pedal down with a two x four propped against the front seat.
Go below and open the bleeder valve for about 1 sec. and let any fluid and air out.
Close valve.
Pull the pedal back up and pump the pedal about 10 times again and
repeat the process until when you open the bleeder valve a good stream
of fluid shoots out and no air.
Close the valve.
Pull the pedal back up. You should beable to pump the pedal and it should stay in the proper operating position.
If the above doesn't work and you see no fluid leakage on the backside of the clutch master cylinder, the only thing left is the slave cylinder.
Remove the rubber bladder inside the clutch master cylinder. Fill with brake fluid to about 1 inch from the top. Put the top back on so no brake fluid splashes out. Keep the clutch master cylinder topped off with brake fluid during the bleeding process.
With bleeder valve closed, pump the cluch pedal 10 times.
Hold the pedal down with a two x four propped against the front seat.
Go below and open the bleeder valve for about 1 sec. and let any fluid and air out.
Close valve.
Pull the pedal back up and pump the pedal about 10 times again and
repeat the process until when you open the bleeder valve a good stream
of fluid shoots out and no air.
Close the valve.
Pull the pedal back up. You should beable to pump the pedal and it should stay in the proper operating position.
If the above doesn't work and you see no fluid leakage on the backside of the clutch master cylinder, the only thing left is the slave cylinder.
Last edited by F150xlt; May 10, 2007 at 10:12 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
The pedal staying down is normal while bleeding a clutch master cylinder
or slave cylinder that has alot of air in it.
The purpose of holding the pedal down with a 2x4 while you open the bleeder is to keep the clutch master cylinder from pulling any air/fluid back into its bore or the slave cylinder bore.
Close the valve and manually pull the pedal back up and keep bleeding.
After all the air is out, you pull the pedal back up and pump it a couple of times and the clutch master cylinder will refill the system with brake fluid.
or slave cylinder that has alot of air in it.
The purpose of holding the pedal down with a 2x4 while you open the bleeder is to keep the clutch master cylinder from pulling any air/fluid back into its bore or the slave cylinder bore.
Close the valve and manually pull the pedal back up and keep bleeding.
After all the air is out, you pull the pedal back up and pump it a couple of times and the clutch master cylinder will refill the system with brake fluid.
Last edited by F150xlt; May 11, 2007 at 11:16 AM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
as it turns out you dont even need the bleeder. unless of course there is air in the system. i went to a dealer and talked to there trans guy and he said just add fluid and pump it and slip clutch it to help nock any small bubble out of it.
