I wanna see something on a spread sheet on how your studies have shown your exhaust break holds better then my EBPV. I have seen you guys bash the Banks brake in the diesel power mag but its time for you to start backin up what your barkin.

I say your skating on thin ice because your really starting to test my patience. This epic episode of EBPV vs. BD Exhaust brake has gone on to long. You have still not answered any of my questions nor have you backed any of your statements with some type of valid proof. Im calling BS on your whole ordeal. I can easily say that my equipment will hold 75psi in backpressure but nobody would believe me until i showed them some proof and thats what I have been asking for all along. So until you post something up that can validate what your saying and answer my questions directly, I shouldn't hear anything more from you on the topic. Good day to you sir

Cowboy Steve

 

75 PSI back pressure LMAO, what keeps your exhaust valves closed; man the top of your pistons must be tattooed in valve dents.

Your right this conversation is over, I actually thought this was a legitimate debate until you told me you actually believe your engine is producing 75 PSI of back pressure. You should discuss these figures with Arch Bishop Don C. Shibazz if he knows what he is talking about because those numbers are off the chart.

Happy hauling!

 

Again smart a$$ comment

"I can easily say that my equipment will hold 75psi in backpressure but nobody would believe me until i showed them some proof and thats what I have been asking for all along."

He never said it did hold 75 psi.

Dave have you done any testing with the ebpv?

 

lol, thanks for helpin davie out Foreman. But I still havin seein any figures or answers to my questions dave. So once again, i shouldn't be hearing from you until you post up some legit and valid info to back your big bark. Good day to you sir

Cowboy Steve

 

Dave you have been around these things more than I have, this was from our last discussion.

 

Im beginning to wonder if Ol' Dave has any info to back his previous statements. I have asked for some info and proof to validate his statemnets and I havent recieved any yet. I have also asked him to answer some simple questions and it hasn't been done yet. So in my mind He knows Im right but cant admit it. Which is fine but there should be no more talking from his end about the subject until he can provide some spread sheet proof. Irregardless, I'll be calling BD in the morning and talkin with the owner hopefully and get his view on the never ending epic episode of "EBPV vs. BD Exhaust brake" Thanks for playing dave and we hope to see you enlighten us on other PSD topics. Keep the greasey side up brother and we'll chat at ya on the telephone tomorrow.

Cowboy Steve

P.S.- thanks to all those who tuned in and gave some of there input on the subject!

 

He'll post back hopefully he is just looking this stuff up.

Just found this..........

The BrakeLoc improves retarding horsepower from 5 RHP, when the clutch is not engaged, to 200RHP when engaged. BD advises the driver that this “electronic” brake results in a extreme amount of delay or distance before retarding occurs; the amount of retarding force is 30% less than vacuum engaged BD vacuum engaged brake and 10% of the stock Ford heat riser valves that stick or bind. BD recommends, for instant and superior retarding performance, the BD Vacuum Actuated, with a variable orifice butterfly exhaust brake kit, be installed. It does cost more because of the design and kit content but it is an engineered safer retarding device.

 

and this......

Exhaust backpressure is maintained at a maximum of 45 psi (180 retarding horsepower) throughout the engine's working rpm range.


sounds to me like the ebpv holds 45psi if it has 200 retarding hp

 

ok I have been watching the debate (if you can call it that) from the side lines. Here are my observations.

Steve you have an opinion and you stick to it but to be very honest BD is a sponsor of this site therefore making it availible to us. And as far as I am concerned I don't really care who tests your patience until I see that little blue "supporter" sign next to your name. And as far as BD needing to back up what he is saying about the EBPV valve he has no need to provide proof that is on us(the EBPV brake supporters). Steve we're on the same teams but you are making this discussion into an arguement. Sponsors are allowed to talk about their product in the forums. If you don't like that you should take it up FTE not the Dave.

Dave- In order to have a good discussion with Steve it does take some getting use to. He has a different style that I also had to get used to. I think you have figured that. For one thank you for the sponsorship your employer gives this site. Now that said if I were in the market for and Exhuast brake I would use the EBPV brake. But with that in mind if you have any data that backs up what you are saying we would love to see it. I personally don't see how oil pressure can be pushed open. Its a matter of hydraulics. Fluids work much better than air pressure or vacum. IF that weren't true hydraulics oil would be replaced with compressed air and vacum diagrams.

There I have said my peace and will continue to watch this thread. And I would be more than happy to help somebody take steps to test the effectiveness of the EBPV brake by giving advice for testing methods.

 

After I fix my uppipes I will be more than happy to test my ebpv. Give me some steps on how to measure backpressure

My old edge evolution doesnt have the live stream data stuff on it.

 

well to test you will need your brake wired which you already have. then to measure pressure the easiest way would be to use a scan tool with stat reading for the backpressure PSI. But I don't know their accuracyor capacity. The best way to do that I can think of is removing the EBP sensor and hooking up a 60 PSI boost gauge or other type of pressure gauge. then simply run your truck with the brake engaged. See what you get. try it loaded unloaded. I would think from a stop with exhaust brake engaged hammer down for a bit. see what you get. if the valve will hold in the throttle the brake will hold idleing running down a hill. it may require loading up an putting the brake to work but I don't doubt that will be needed.

 

Would I have to sit in the engine compartment looking at the gauge?

I see what your saying. I wonder If I can use my existing 35psi boost gauge and throw on a few fittings to adapt it to the ebp sensor hole. Would the gauge read a vaccuum until I turned on the ebpv and hammered on it?

 

yes you will need to be in the cab to do these tests. its rpetty easy to feed a hose through one of the body lines of the hood and hold it under the wiper blade or duct tape it to the windshield. The gauge will not read vacuum. there will always been a small amount of backpressure even with the valve closed.

 

Well said Tim. I don't know how my name got thrown in there, but it made me want to start using my alias. I didn't get involved in this one because it turned into a big ole TDS pissing match. I can't believe cookie didn't pull it. Further more, I could give a crap about an exhaust brake. That's just my opinion because I don't pull heavy all the time. I just view it as a restiction.

Steve, I can't back you up on something I know nothing about, or care about. Sorry man. Plus, I don't believe Dave was doing anything companys shouldn't do. But that's just my opinion.

 

Definitely need to be in the cab rolling, empty you will need a good head of steam to get a max back pressure reading if loaded 60-70MPH should do, we have a long hose that we tuck under the windshield wiper so we can see it through the windshield. With the EBPV it may be hard to get an accurate reading and I will explain why in my following paragraph, so please bear with me.


To get everyone’s attention and cool this topic down I will start by saying I was a little off when I said the EBPV is not capable of 40-45 PSI back pressure. I am sorry if I was wrong in my explanation but the explanation is not that easy as you can see by the length of this post. I hope after reading this we can just get along

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Let me explain this further, it goes back to what I said before about how we control back pressure with our exhaust brakes. If you look at the heat riser valve you will notice a notch our of the bottom of the flapper valve, this is obviously how it allows some exhaust to still flow through when warming the motor up. This works good when modifying the heat riser to work as and engine brake because it will relieve some back pressure to insure you do not float and exhaust valve.<O:p< p O:p<>


For example if you generate say 75PSI of back pressure and the exhaust valve springs are only rated for 50 PSI you run the risk of sucking one of the exhaust valves open and hitting a piston (not good)! Because of that notch in the butterfly it makes it harder to generate back pressure, like a bucket with a hole in it, it will be hard to hold a steady volume and get and accurate back pressure reading. The more RPM under load the more back pressure it is going to generate. The problem is that there no way to control the back pressure so you run the risk of floating the exhaust valves.<O:p< p O:p<>


With a BD exhaust brake we use a solid butterfly which will build better back pressure at a lower RPM. The BD brake can do this because we have a built in safety that regulates the back pressure through vacuum or air pressure using our variable orfice technology to regulate back pressure. This will allow the exhaust brakes flapper valve to creep open at or around 45PSI of back pressure to protect against floating an exhaust valve.<O:p< p O:p<>


So in conclusion both set ups will generate good back pressure and hold back, it will take more RPM to create the same back pressure rating out of the EBVP as would with our exhaust brake because of the notch in the flapper valve in the EBVP. With our BD Exhaust Brake we have a built in safety to control back pressure with the EBVP you do not. With that being said you would have to be towing an awfully big load and a really high RPM to run that risk but the risk is definitely there! The EBVP sell for a tenth of what an exhaust brake sells for which may seem like a better way to go. If you chosse this route I would recommend a permanent back pressure gauge to monitor what kind of back pressure the motor is generating for piece of mind as $1195.00 for and brake would seem cheap after having the top end of the 7.3L motor rebuilt!<O:p< p O:p<>

Exhaust Brake $1195.00 US
EVBP with a back pressure gauge under $300.00

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I am going to touch on something that was not mentioned yet and that pertains to the automatic transmission vs the manuals. If you have an automatic and are not feeling the hold back we are describing here it is possible your torque convertor is unlocking and the retarding is being lost through the transmissions fluid coupling. This can be corrected with a loc up controller, there is many available on the market. It is commonly known as a mystery switch that is pretty much just wiring in a switch to the T/C control telling the T/C to remain locked up on decel. The problem with doing it this way is that as you pull up to a light it will not disengage the T/C causing it to drag the motor down and stall unless you flip the switch off everytime first.<O:p< p O:p<>

Running the risk of sounding like I am pushing my products again (sorry cowboy) we have a few different lock up controllers available that will allow the T/C to stay locked up and automatically disengage the T/C at about 25 MPH. Just to add to this a little bit more, most of the 99-03 7.3L P/S's will already hold lock up down to about 45 MPH then it will release the T/C to prevent motor stall. With the BD Auto Loc or Torque Loc we can bring the T/C release speed down to about 20-25MPH. What this means is that you guys running the EBPV valves on automatics is that you can improve the hold back under 45 MPH dramatically! You didn't think I was going to type all this out and not plug my products at least once did ya? LOL
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