Idles fine, drives for few miles and quits
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Coil has resistor built in.
Fuel pump is new
all new fuel lines and filter.
I just drove it back about 1/2 mile from friends house. It ran fine. Other than me rolling around trying to shift it. I am using a sit down seat to drive it. You know the one with rollers on the bottom that you sit on to work on lower parts of car or truck. I should have used a 5 gallon bucket.
Give me some ideas on how to check all these items. or what else to look for. Thanks for the help. I am getting frustrated by it.
Fuel pump is new
all new fuel lines and filter.
I just drove it back about 1/2 mile from friends house. It ran fine. Other than me rolling around trying to shift it. I am using a sit down seat to drive it. You know the one with rollers on the bottom that you sit on to work on lower parts of car or truck. I should have used a 5 gallon bucket.
Give me some ideas on how to check all these items. or what else to look for. Thanks for the help. I am getting frustrated by it.
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Bill I just talked to him he is going to do it Friday or Monday. I told him I needed to put the bed on Wed so I can work out those bugs as well. I don't care if it is working or not. Just on and bolted down correctly. I want to see how the truck runs with a load. It bounces all over the place now.
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#10
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Saskatoon SK Canada
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Don't you hate these types of problems?
Here's some simple tests to see if the ignition is still working when it dies:
Step 1. take a test light and see if there is power to the positive side of the coil with key on. Test light works go to step 2 or the problem is from ignition switch to coil.
Step 2. Take test light and connect it to the negative side of coil and battery power. Crank engine and the test light should flash. If it doesn't flash you know the problem is in the primary circuit (points, condensor, primary winding in the coil). If it flashes then your ignition is fine or the problem is in the secondary circuit (spark plugs, plug wires and secondary winding in coil, rotor, distributer cap)
Here's a simple test to check your coil. Make SURE there isn't any power to the coil or you will fry your meter. Take an ohmmeter and put the leads on the positive and negative terminals. Should be a reading of .5 to 2 ohms. Now put leads on negative terminal and coil output (where the spark plug goes). You should get a reading of 25 000 - 40 000 ohms. If you get an out of limit reading (make sure it's set to the correct setting) or 0 the coil is faulty.
Checking if you have fuel can be a little more tricky with low pressure systems. Push the throttle several times and you should see the accelerator pump squirt fuel. If fuel or a mist isn't seen then you don't have fuel in the carb. That's all I can think of at the moment.
Here's some simple tests to see if the ignition is still working when it dies:
Step 1. take a test light and see if there is power to the positive side of the coil with key on. Test light works go to step 2 or the problem is from ignition switch to coil.
Step 2. Take test light and connect it to the negative side of coil and battery power. Crank engine and the test light should flash. If it doesn't flash you know the problem is in the primary circuit (points, condensor, primary winding in the coil). If it flashes then your ignition is fine or the problem is in the secondary circuit (spark plugs, plug wires and secondary winding in coil, rotor, distributer cap)
Here's a simple test to check your coil. Make SURE there isn't any power to the coil or you will fry your meter. Take an ohmmeter and put the leads on the positive and negative terminals. Should be a reading of .5 to 2 ohms. Now put leads on negative terminal and coil output (where the spark plug goes). You should get a reading of 25 000 - 40 000 ohms. If you get an out of limit reading (make sure it's set to the correct setting) or 0 the coil is faulty.
Checking if you have fuel can be a little more tricky with low pressure systems. Push the throttle several times and you should see the accelerator pump squirt fuel. If fuel or a mist isn't seen then you don't have fuel in the carb. That's all I can think of at the moment.
Last edited by 51dueller; 04-24-2007 at 08:47 PM.
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Kevin--do you have any rubber -neoprene gas lines ??-sometimes rubber gets torn or ripped and goes in the line--my roadrunners with the 6pacs did this all the time.Then would not run,or look at the filter like said above! Do not get frustrated--these are normal quirks all of us have had.You are putting yourself under the gun to make the Nat's.Just go over what you have done,and diagnose the problem--it will be something simple!!!!I would bet on it!!
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Kevin,
Sounds like a fuel problem to me. I would undo each end of each section of fuel line and blow back through them to see what you find. If nothing there check the fuel tank.
Years back my dad had this old John Deere winrower. The thing would run great until you got down to about ¼ tank then it would start dying when you got to the far side of the field. After you got down and checked everything out it would fire back up and run great for a little while longer before sputtering and dying again. It would sit and idle forever.
We put numerous days and untold numbers of frosty beverages trying to find the problem.
It turned out to be a wasp. That’s right a wasp. There was a dead wasp floating around in the gas tank, when the tank got low it would get sucked up to the fuel line and block the flow, the engine would sputter and die, releasing the fuel pressure and allowing the wasp to float away. You would start it back up and drive for awhile before once again the wasp got sucked back onto the fuel line and again stopping the flow.
That’s why I suggest blowing back through the lines, if something is plugging it up blowing back should free it. It wouldn't hurt to remove the fuel sender and peek in the tank with a flashlight and see what's there.
Good luck
Bobby
Sounds like a fuel problem to me. I would undo each end of each section of fuel line and blow back through them to see what you find. If nothing there check the fuel tank.
Years back my dad had this old John Deere winrower. The thing would run great until you got down to about ¼ tank then it would start dying when you got to the far side of the field. After you got down and checked everything out it would fire back up and run great for a little while longer before sputtering and dying again. It would sit and idle forever.
We put numerous days and untold numbers of frosty beverages trying to find the problem.
It turned out to be a wasp. That’s right a wasp. There was a dead wasp floating around in the gas tank, when the tank got low it would get sucked up to the fuel line and block the flow, the engine would sputter and die, releasing the fuel pressure and allowing the wasp to float away. You would start it back up and drive for awhile before once again the wasp got sucked back onto the fuel line and again stopping the flow.
That’s why I suggest blowing back through the lines, if something is plugging it up blowing back should free it. It wouldn't hurt to remove the fuel sender and peek in the tank with a flashlight and see what's there.
Good luck
Bobby
#13
Engine dies
I have seen coils break down under to much heat when installed to close to the block.
If you have a electric fuel pump,hose and different fuel supply, bypass directly to carb. Your Your fuel lines between pump and carb may be to close to exhaust manifold heat.
Have a great day,chuck
If you have a electric fuel pump,hose and different fuel supply, bypass directly to carb. Your Your fuel lines between pump and carb may be to close to exhaust manifold heat.
Have a great day,chuck
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Maybe a simple float adjustment as well, if it's set too low it may be eventually starving out. Does it sputter before the engine dies, or does it just die like you turned it off? Also, how do you restart it...just fire it up right there, or does it have to sit and cool for a while? I'd say if it sputters to a stop and can fire right back up it's fuel related, if it just flat dies it sounds electrical. If it has to cool, maybe something in the coil needing to cool, or vaporlock in the fuel line.