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I have a'75 F-250 that i have bled brakes on several times and still get a soft pedal when i crank up and drive it. i have replaced the master cylinder but got the same problem, then i replaced the combo valve thinking it might be that, but after thorough bleeding the same soft pedal came back with the engine running.Would the power booster have anything to do with it and why?
thanks for the booster rod adjustment tip. About 1 full turn out on the screw and it made a tremendous difference in the pedal feel. I should have known better than to just start replacing parts and not diagnosing the problem , my auto mech. teachers would be dissappointed in me!
Speaking of brakes... I just replaced my calipers, master cylinder, booster, pads, tie rods, drag link and shocks. After a front end allignment and a bleed a day on my system I have a pull to the left when I hit the brakes that if I don't hold the wheel tight would jerk me at 60mph 90 degrees and flip my truck. I can't find air in the lines and when I jack the truck off the ground and check the brakes the right caliper grabs just like the left.
Can anyone help me trouble shoot this thing? Could the tie rods and drag link instal I did be so chewed up that it is causing this? I can't find a crimp in the brake line either. It drives straight as an arrow but the harder the brake is depressed the more severe the pull to the left.
is it normal in these trucks to hear air releasing when pressing in the brake pedal like a pffft pfft sound? or is there a bigger problem? not to familiar with booster systems
Doesn't the PPV just regulate the pressure from front to back and not side to side? In my LMC Truck catalog it only shows one option so if it regulates side to side then I'm good and I'll get that thing and see if it fixes it. And while I'm waiting I'll replace all my brake lines. If it only regulates front to rear then I guess the cheap fix is in order and I'll have to replace just the passenger side brake line from the PPV to the caliper.
With the engine shut off..yes it is normal ..all you are doing is evacuating the vacuum in the BB.
See the brake booster test.
hmm not good then cause i can hear it with the motor running, i plan on replacing all the vacuum lines anyways but will test the booster before and after.
And while I'm waiting I'll replace all my brake lines.
Brad
The rubber ones can have loose linings that can act really strange like after you apply your brakes... not letting that brake off, as if you'd stomped an emergency brake for that wheel (or wheels if it's the back ones) ...or the other way around, bleed alright but put a quick rush of fluid and the "one way valve" closes on you.
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Mine didn't give me the impression it was going to wreck me but my pulling to the left turned out to be a lose pad.
Lose as in... the steel tabs on the Raybestos pad didn't hold onto the caliper.
So i got that fixed. :)
Now I'm in the process of figuring out the gawd-awful squeal coming from both sides. :)
(that's just a matter of time and experimenting tho:)
Alvin in AZ
Last edited by Alvin in AZ; Apr 16, 2007 at 09:53 PM.
Speaking of squeel. My uneducated understanding is that a squeel in the brakes is caused by a harmonic developed by a particular vibration in the pads. All you have to do is drop the brake cease goo on the back of your pads or if you have the metal tabs holding your pads in then you can bend them so their tighter and it will kill the squeel. I've got the same issue with my truck but first I have to fix the "suicide dive into oncoming traffic" pull to the left.