I have an 89 E-150 300 automatic when the weather is 85 degrees or hotter, the motor will start to lose power then die and wont restart for 45mins to an hour-i have put on a new fuel pump relay,new engine control module, rebuilt distributor,cap, rotor. Once when it wouldn't start it had fuel pressure on the fuel rail -didn't have a gauge handy-and had spark and still wouldn't run. Anyone had this problem before... Getting tired of throwing parts at it. Thanks

 

I have the same problem with my 88 F350. When I'm loaded or pulling hard it gets warm, not hot, then all of a sudden wont accelerate, lugs, looses power and eventually stalls. Once cool again it will fire up and run well.

So far people have suggested fuel boiling in the rail and a hot ECM. The truck runs beautifully otherwise

I have not replaced all the parts you have to date and maybe I won't have to. Please let me know if you get to the bottom of this.

.Mitch

 

There are several things that can cause this. The Ignition control module on the distributor had a recall on it. When it got hot it would cut out and would allow a restart when it cooled off. The other is the EEC ( Electronic Engine Control) relay--this small relay supplies power for the computer as well as the fuel pump relay. If this relays contacts are bad, it creates a high resistance and lets less than or no 12 volts to the computer or the fuel pump relay. If the computer gets less than 10 volts it doesn't work. Bad Ignition switch causes problems also as it controls that relay.

stractor

 

I've replaced the fuel pump relay- i guess i'll try the other relay -i did notice the relays are very hot to the touch after driving awhile-have a pressure gauge on the fuel rail drove for about 25 miles in the heat but it didnt stall. Wondering if a fuel pump when it gets hot would stop working.. Thanks

 

stractor - thanks for your insight. If you were a betting man what order would you replace them in?

Please also advise the location of the two suspect relays.

As an aside, what shop manual would you recomend for this year f series?

Thanks

 

I have a van, an they are left of the battery.I think the trucks are in a different location. Have you changed out the ecu- engine control module -yet. Its on the side of the dist. and even if thats not it, they go out often and a spare with you isnt a bad idea. The tool to get it off is 4 or 5 bucks, cant remove it without it. Also you can get a scan tool for about 30.00 and a fuel punp pressure gauge is about 40. As far as a manual i have the haynes it sucks for the vans doesnt have much on the later models..I know its something simple lol

 

OK-I would replace the EEC relay first ( cheap $15+). On a pickup ( mine is a 90) it is on the drivers side fender apron. it is a single relay and looks like the fuel pump relay, that is also there. Mine was a metal shell relay. Mine had water in it, most likely from someone steam cleaning the engine. If you tapped it with a screw driver handle while the engine was running , the engine would die. This took several weeks to find. The ignition switch, is on the bottom of the steering column and entails dropping the steering column to get at it. It Just sounds harder than it is to replace and adjust it. As for the manual , I use the Ford shop manual ( from EBAY) and both the other two available manuals, Haynes-Chilton, for the 87-92 Fords, of those I like the Haynes. Don't forget the Ignition Module on the distributor, those caused hot shutdown problems and were recalled, not cheap at $60, but a good bet and the first thing I would do for Hot shut down. Especially if it is the original Ford module . You state you replaced the distributor with a rebuilt -did it come with the module or did you use yours???

 

I think I'll bight the bullet and replace both relays and the ignition control module. I have the distributer mounted module. I thought it looked like a couple Philips screws would remove it. Do I need a special tool?

 

When you buy the module just tell them you need the tool ...

 

The tool is cheap ($5) at autozone,they are not screws they are 3/16 hex head bolts , It is a very thin walled socket on a ****.
I would recomend you remove the distributor to replace the module to make sure you have the connectors on the module in the connectors of the distributor. It is easy to miss one or more of the connectors if you do it with the distributor in place, due to the way it has to be tipped to install it.

stractor