front cover leaking?
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Can someone answer this?
When I removed one of the long bolts from the front cover at the lower right side, coolant came out running fast.
Is it normal for the coolant to be present behind the front cover???
I understand it's Ok behind the water pump gasket but the front cover ?
I'm thinking maybe I have a broken water pump gasket and coolant is getting through
the front cover??
When I removed one of the long bolts from the front cover at the lower right side, coolant came out running fast.
Is it normal for the coolant to be present behind the front cover???
I understand it's Ok behind the water pump gasket but the front cover ?
I'm thinking maybe I have a broken water pump gasket and coolant is getting through
the front cover??
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Look very carefully around the thermostat housing, radiator hose, and heater hoses, and intake manifold. These places will leak and run down the side of the timing cover. jd
Last edited by jimdandy; Apr 10, 2007 at 08:33 AM.
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Originally Posted by jimdandy
Look very carefully around the thermostat housing, radiator hose, and heater hoses, and intake manifold. These places will leak and run down the side of the timing cover. jd
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From: Aurora
The holes throught the cover gasket has to be good all around the bolt holes. If it's not, it'll leak there instead of the bolt head. There's not much gasket there on the outside portion of the bolt hole. Unless there's a lock washer on the bolt head, you'd be surprise how good the bolt head and washer will seal up. Ford isn't the only manufacturer to drill holes right through the block and into the coolant gallery, requiring thread dope to seal it up. I've heard guys say it took several attempts to get it right.
Years ago, I remember reading about it in a hot rod magazine and somebody had replaced the bolts with shouldered studs that sealed up good (thread dope was still used). The back surface of the water pump(which was the problem unit) had to be releived to accomodate the shoulder of the stud. The other problem with that was the water pump had to be pulled forward all the way off the studs requiring radiator removal on some applications.
It's a pain, but you might run a tap through to clean the holes before redoping.
Good luck.
Years ago, I remember reading about it in a hot rod magazine and somebody had replaced the bolts with shouldered studs that sealed up good (thread dope was still used). The back surface of the water pump(which was the problem unit) had to be releived to accomodate the shoulder of the stud. The other problem with that was the water pump had to be pulled forward all the way off the studs requiring radiator removal on some applications.
It's a pain, but you might run a tap through to clean the holes before redoping.
Good luck.
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Originally Posted by fflintstone
The holes throught the cover gasket has to be good all around the bolt holes. If it's not, it'll leak there instead of the bolt head. There's not much gasket there on the outside portion of the bolt hole. Unless there's a lock washer on the bolt head, you'd be surprise how good the bolt head and washer will seal up. Ford isn't the only manufacturer to drill holes right through the block and into the coolant gallery, requiring thread dope to seal it up. I've heard guys say it took several attempts to get it right.
Years ago, I remember reading about it in a hot rod magazine and somebody had replaced the bolts with shouldered studs that sealed up good (thread dope was still used). The back surface of the water pump(which was the problem unit) had to be releived to accomodate the shoulder of the stud. The other problem with that was the water pump had to be pulled forward all the way off the studs requiring radiator removal on some applications.
It's a pain, but you might run a tap through to clean the holes before redoping.
Good luck.
Years ago, I remember reading about it in a hot rod magazine and somebody had replaced the bolts with shouldered studs that sealed up good (thread dope was still used). The back surface of the water pump(which was the problem unit) had to be releived to accomodate the shoulder of the stud. The other problem with that was the water pump had to be pulled forward all the way off the studs requiring radiator removal on some applications.
It's a pain, but you might run a tap through to clean the holes before redoping.
Good luck.
Do I have to drain the radiator and get ol the coolant out before putting the seal in the bolt hole? because coolant comes out and I'm not sure if the sealant works when wet?
I have rtv gray silicone and a gasket maker non hardening are these good or should I get something else?
Thanks...
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From: Aurora
Sillycone won't work. There is a proper thread dope used, but what its called escapes me right now. I'll try to look it up or you can ask just about any GOOD mechanic that does cooling system work regularly. The stuff I used many years ago was in stick form and you just raked it across the thread till they were full. And yes, you need to drain the coolant, but the last of it will drain out of the bottom most hole. Then jack up the front of the truck a few inches to get the rest of the coolant to slosh to the back of the block to get it away from the holes. then take a small wooden dowel with a thin t-shirt cloth wraped around it and thread it in and out of the hole a couple of times to dry it out. A lot of guys will call this over kill, but it's enough of a PITA, that its worth a little extra.Good luck
Fred
Fred
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From: Aurora
Come to think about it, I remember walking into my regular family mechanic's (find one of THOSE nowadays) garage to ask him about it and he just handed me the stick and said "you'll hardly use any, just bring back the rest". Whatever happened to those guys.?
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Originally Posted by fflintstone
Come to think about it, I remember walking into my regular family mechanic's (find one of THOSE nowadays) garage to ask him about it and he just handed me the stick and said "you'll hardly use any, just bring back the rest". Whatever happened to those guys.?
or non hardening, I used it before on the thermostat and works great
there's also a lock thread liquid I think it's Loctie or something like it,
and has two different strengths, medium and heavy, it prevents the bolts from moving and also seals the threads.
Or maybe you're talking the sticks they use to patch radiators like JB Weld
that's stuff is permanent and you can't remove it once fully cured.
and there's also another similar to JB weld stick, that plumbers use, it comes in stick but either one of these two sealers are too thick to give a good seal on the thread I guess, these stuff is made to use on the outside of pipes joints,etc.
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What's a good sealant to put on the bolts threads?
I got the permatex hardening and non hardening, gray RTV silicone, pipe joint compound plumbers stuff, liquid Teflon?
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/80003.pdf
I got the permatex hardening and non hardening, gray RTV silicone, pipe joint compound plumbers stuff, liquid Teflon?
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/80003.pdf
Last edited by cadriver; Apr 11, 2007 at 01:08 PM.
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Problem Fixed!
I wish some of you guys can finish what you started, incomplete info sucks!!
I come here to get repair info, and some guys here never return to finish the help they replied, leaving me wonder now what?
I come here to get repair info, and some guys here never return to finish the help they replied, leaving me wonder now what?
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