Truck won't start unless I jump starter solenoid
#1
Truck won't start unless I jump starter solenoid
Truck won't start unless I jump starter solenoid w/booster. Doesn't even click.
Also have no power to gauges and speedo doesn't work.
Last wk the same thing happened to the gauges and speedo but it started and ran fine - then everything just started working again.
Also last night I fell asleep in the truck w/it running -long day- and a couple of times I heard what sounded like the bendix tring to engage for a few seconds.
Any help apprecitaed
Also have no power to gauges and speedo doesn't work.
Last wk the same thing happened to the gauges and speedo but it started and ran fine - then everything just started working again.
Also last night I fell asleep in the truck w/it running -long day- and a couple of times I heard what sounded like the bendix tring to engage for a few seconds.
Any help apprecitaed
#2
#3
Have you tested both the starter relay and for proper input to the starter relay from the ignition switch circuit?
Have you checked/cleaned your battery terminals and the battery cables?
Time to get your hands dirty and determine what is actually wrong before you start swapping crap out.
Also, indicate your year, engine, and transmission. Those details are important in looking up the correct diagrams.
Steve
Have you checked/cleaned your battery terminals and the battery cables?
Time to get your hands dirty and determine what is actually wrong before you start swapping crap out.
Also, indicate your year, engine, and transmission. Those details are important in looking up the correct diagrams.
Steve
#4
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#10
My guess,
Well I cant....we need more info...is this a new thing or has it done it before like this ect. It sounds like it may have something to to with the neutral safety switch but then again lack of any gauges could be a computer issue...while its running w/o gauges is it doing so rough ect.
-Chris
Well I cant....we need more info...is this a new thing or has it done it before like this ect. It sounds like it may have something to to with the neutral safety switch but then again lack of any gauges could be a computer issue...while its running w/o gauges is it doing so rough ect.
-Chris
#11
#12
No worries,
If you post up the info from the sticker on the door it should clue us in a bit more. One thing you can do is go to a parts store like Autozone...and have them read the codes for you....you can give us the results and we whould be able to help from there..that is assuming its even throwing codes which I think it would be at this point lol.
-Chris
If you post up the info from the sticker on the door it should clue us in a bit more. One thing you can do is go to a parts store like Autozone...and have them read the codes for you....you can give us the results and we whould be able to help from there..that is assuming its even throwing codes which I think it would be at this point lol.
-Chris
#13
Having codes read at a parts store is only suggested if you have a CEL and don't have your own scanner. There's no point in doing that here.
Likewise, we don't need the door sticker info, either.
Now that we know what the year, engine, and transmisssion are, the correct diagram can be pulled.
Your problem will be one of the following:
Ignition switch
Fuse F20 (50A) Underhood
Fuse F21 (15A) Underdash
Starter interrupt relay if equipped with Remote Anti-tehft Personality (RAP). Relay is located behind right side of dash on RAP-equipped vehicles.
Jumper at Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch
Digital Transmission Range (DTR) sensor on transmission (AKA Neutral safety switch on older systems)
Any of the interconnecting wiring.
Add in any after-market remote starters or starter diasables should they be present.
Steve
Likewise, we don't need the door sticker info, either.
Now that we know what the year, engine, and transmisssion are, the correct diagram can be pulled.
Your problem will be one of the following:
Ignition switch
Fuse F20 (50A) Underhood
Fuse F21 (15A) Underdash
Starter interrupt relay if equipped with Remote Anti-tehft Personality (RAP). Relay is located behind right side of dash on RAP-equipped vehicles.
Jumper at Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch
Digital Transmission Range (DTR) sensor on transmission (AKA Neutral safety switch on older systems)
Any of the interconnecting wiring.
Add in any after-market remote starters or starter diasables should they be present.
Steve
#14
I would first follow the positive wire up to the starter solenoid, which is on your fire wall. If you have no gauges you may have a bad connection at the solenoid. All of your electronics come off of that solenoid. The post where the wire from the battery attaches will have other wires attached also. Make sure they are all in good working order there. This will control guages and everything else. Do you have interior lights or dash lights or buzzers when none of this is working?
#15
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Having codes read at a parts store is only suggested if you have a CEL and don't have your own scanner. There's no point in doing that here.
Steve
Steve
And if hes got an auto...why would you even recomend:
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Jumper at Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch
Steve
-Chris