Truck shakes above 25mph
#1
Truck shakes above 25mph
I've posted about this before to no avail. Have a few updates and I'll sum up all my findings so far.
I drove my truck through a snowstorm in the mountains several weeks back and shot my automatic hubs in the process. Somewhere along the line when trying to get unstuck, twice, and driving with chains on the rear wheels for 20 or so miles, my truck developed a shake that it did not have before. Have since replaced the hubs with warn premium manuals, they work great.
Symptoms: the shake becomes noticable to me anywhere above around 20-25 miles. It is not a washboard effect, much less severe, almost like small bumps in the road but too close together; most people who don't ride in the truck often do not notice it. Shakes all throughout each the gears, not only at high or low rpms. Seems to come from the rear end because I feel it more in my seat than through the steering wheel, in fact I don't feel it much at all in the steering wheel. Also seems to be drivetrain related as it will shake when put into neutral at a constant speed.
I had a shudder from take-off when I first purchased the truck, which I fixed by shimming my carrier bearing. The drop bracket I bought was a little too tall and my drive shaft ended up being spaced just BARELY too far down. I removed the bracket this weekend and the old shudder came back, and the new shake persisted.
U-joints seem fine, although I have only checked them why twisting them with the driveshaft on the truck; all feel tight.
Tires have been balanced, twice. Checked for roundness too, no problems there. Changed rear diff fluid, made sure to use limited slip fluid.
I'm at a loss here. Does anyone have any other ideas?
Sorry for the long post,
Chris
I drove my truck through a snowstorm in the mountains several weeks back and shot my automatic hubs in the process. Somewhere along the line when trying to get unstuck, twice, and driving with chains on the rear wheels for 20 or so miles, my truck developed a shake that it did not have before. Have since replaced the hubs with warn premium manuals, they work great.
Symptoms: the shake becomes noticable to me anywhere above around 20-25 miles. It is not a washboard effect, much less severe, almost like small bumps in the road but too close together; most people who don't ride in the truck often do not notice it. Shakes all throughout each the gears, not only at high or low rpms. Seems to come from the rear end because I feel it more in my seat than through the steering wheel, in fact I don't feel it much at all in the steering wheel. Also seems to be drivetrain related as it will shake when put into neutral at a constant speed.
I had a shudder from take-off when I first purchased the truck, which I fixed by shimming my carrier bearing. The drop bracket I bought was a little too tall and my drive shaft ended up being spaced just BARELY too far down. I removed the bracket this weekend and the old shudder came back, and the new shake persisted.
U-joints seem fine, although I have only checked them why twisting them with the driveshaft on the truck; all feel tight.
Tires have been balanced, twice. Checked for roundness too, no problems there. Changed rear diff fluid, made sure to use limited slip fluid.
I'm at a loss here. Does anyone have any other ideas?
Sorry for the long post,
Chris
Last edited by Skandocious; 03-12-2007 at 02:44 AM.
#2
Have you put that thing in the air yet to see if you get any variations in the rear end? A bent axle?
Another thing, I would pull the driveshaft and check the u-joints while disconnected. Sometimes it's hard to detect a dry joint with it still installed.
Another thing, I would pull the driveshaft and check the u-joints while disconnected. Sometimes it's hard to detect a dry joint with it still installed.
Last edited by alz; 03-12-2007 at 06:16 AM.
#3
#4
Have you put that thing in the air yet to see if you get any variations in the rear end? A bent axle?
Another thing, I would pull the driveshaft and check the u-joints while disconnected. Sometimes it's hard to detect a dry joint with it still installed.
Another thing, I would pull the driveshaft and check the u-joints while disconnected. Sometimes it's hard to detect a dry joint with it still installed.
How are your brakes? Is your parking brake frozen? Got a caliper or shoe dragging somewhere? Warped rotor or drum? Spinning up wheels in snow is a good way to warp something--spinning tires get real hot, then hit cold snow...
-Chris
#5
My first guess would be a locked up u-joint. The only real good way to identify them is to drop the shaft and make sure all joints move in all directions without binding. I had a similar problem on one of my trucks years ago and after rebuilding the rear end I found one locked up joint while reinstalling the shaft.
Otherwise maybe a bad output bearing in the transfer case or pinion bearing in the rear end.
Otherwise maybe a bad output bearing in the transfer case or pinion bearing in the rear end.
#6
Originally Posted by kell104
My first guess would be a locked up u-joint. The only real good way to identify them is to drop the shaft and make sure all joints move in all directions without binding. I had a similar problem on one of my trucks years ago and after rebuilding the rear end I found one locked up joint while reinstalling the shaft.
Otherwise maybe a bad output bearing in the transfer case or pinion bearing in the rear end.
Otherwise maybe a bad output bearing in the transfer case or pinion bearing in the rear end.
I also noticed that when twisting the driveshaft around the carrier bearing that there is a TINY bit of play there, I'm talking a fraction of a millimeter. Is this normal?
-Chris
#7
I just replaced my U-Joints a little over a week ago. It started out as a minor vibration and then developed into a major vibration at anything over 30 or so. It's different depending on how they are going out and how bad they are. With mine, I couldn't tell they were bad until I dropped the driveline and looked at them. They are pretty cheap and fairly easy to replace, I would deffinatly start there.
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#8
Originally Posted by FrontRangeF150
I just replaced my U-Joints a little over a week ago. It started out as a minor vibration and then developed into a major vibration at anything over 30 or so. It's different depending on how they are going out and how bad they are. With mine, I couldn't tell they were bad until I dropped the driveline and looked at them. They are pretty cheap and fairly easy to replace, I would deffinatly start there.
-Chris
#9
Mine were not seized, but the needle bearings were toast (some were broken and most were worn down pretty bad) and there was no grease left in them. It does sound like you have a similar problem to what I had. I am not about the throw money at it and see what fixes it method of repair but with U-joints being inexpensive and easy to do, you might as well. Another thing you want to check is your motor mounts and tranny mount, if you have a mean vibration it could be caused by those as well. I'd start with the U-Joints though.
#10
My first guess would be snow is trapped somewhere. Check behind your rims. Or if you have beauty rings on your rims, take them off to see if it is packed behind. This happens to me with mud all the time. If anything, see if you can park it in a warm garage overnight. Maybe melt some unwanted snow? Worth a shot?
#12
Originally Posted by gravydude
My first guess would be snow is trapped somewhere. Check behind your rims. Or if you have beauty rings on your rims, take them off to see if it is packed behind. This happens to me with mud all the time. If anything, see if you can park it in a warm garage overnight. Maybe melt some unwanted snow? Worth a shot?
As for u-joints, is there any specific brand that I should use? I seem to remember Spicer, do they make u-joints?
-Chris
Last edited by Skandocious; 03-12-2007 at 03:59 PM.
#15