What is a "RUBBER ROOF", and how best to take care of it
#47
#48
Steve
#49
#50
UPDATE ON ALPHA ROOF COATING SYSTEM
WELL its been 4 years and that stuff is great!!! still looks like the day i put it on. not weathered at all!!!!!!! NO chalking either!!! i rub my hand on it and NOTHING comes off!! bad news is my wall is still wet inside the wall. tore some open and the plywood is like tunafish inside! ive tried everything except to rip off the whole outside wall/alluminum(1st 3 strips) its just gotta last 2 more years. i sealed the inside real good and keep doing damage control on the out side. I have removed the roof rail and resealed and put in new alluminum screws, the roof ply wood was dry!? that _hit is running down from some other seal, it MAY have been the slide frame on the rv!!! I just remembered i just saw that last fall and sealed it, it had come away 1/8th of an inch and looked like water could sneak past the slide seal and get into the slide frame on the rv.
#51
Where did you buy the rubber roof sealant ,how many years did you wait before you applied it , and what kind of work is entailed in the process? Leaks can be a real problem to find ,but if it's anywhere near a slide out thats where you need to focus. New rubber , silicone , and maybe some of that sealant stuff on the slide out roof as well. Baking soda will remove the mildew smell durring storage ,plenty of baking soda!
#52
Slide-out seals are a whole 'nuther topic really, the seals are inside AND out, the gap all around should be looked at to make sure the slide is even all around, and the seals overlap from the top down like shingles.
- Some of the funniest looking strips of self adhesive weather strip I have ever seen before!
NEVER USE OLD or QUESTIONABLE pieces for a repair, because the adhesive on them is best if new
(left over bits may fail to stick completely. Then where are you?)
LOOK FOR THIS:
If the "new" seal pieces look like the protective tear-off backing is bubbled up or longer than the rubber, or if it is pulled away from the adhesive anywhere before it is applied - don't use it. Self adhesive strips that won't even stick to their own packaging are definitely not gunna be good enough...
- Some of the funniest looking strips of self adhesive weather strip I have ever seen before!
NEVER USE OLD or QUESTIONABLE pieces for a repair, because the adhesive on them is best if new
(left over bits may fail to stick completely. Then where are you?)
LOOK FOR THIS:
If the "new" seal pieces look like the protective tear-off backing is bubbled up or longer than the rubber, or if it is pulled away from the adhesive anywhere before it is applied - don't use it. Self adhesive strips that won't even stick to their own packaging are definitely not gunna be good enough...
#53
Rustyroll I bought the 2 step system fron alfa roofing company, the one who made the rubber on my roof. I put it on after 9 years(the white rubber was gone and going and black rubber was showing.) It is a huge job ans really should be done inside due to debris getting on it and threat of rain. You will need to make some kind of a scaffell(read my other posts) you apply step 1 one area at a time wait 20 min and apply step 2. I made a scaffell with 2 ladders and 8x10 or so lumber and had 2 keep moving them!! it was a pain. I used my friends shop and had it in on a fri eve and had to out sun eve. had to stay up all night sat eve so i could let it dry to apply 2nd coat and have enuff time for that to dry b4 took back home. read about all my mistakes. It's also expensive 350.00 4 years ago for 2 of step 1 , and 2 of step 2. But like anthing in life u usually get what u pay for and anything worthwhile is hard work. now i have a fantastic seal on the roof. They told me if i do it right it will last 15 years!!!! good luck. any other questions ask. BTW my calfs hurt for 2 weeks after standing all that time. i am 59 y/o now. Oh btw the shop here wanted 1,400 to do it for me.
#54
#55
#56
OK SINCE not answer i will try to help u out anyways, your white rubber(laminated to layer of black) is prob starting to wear off for some reason and it looks blue cause u r lookin thru a thin layer of white at the black underneath.This can happen if do not clean like the manufacturer says.
#57
#58
FWIW - I'll pass on what I said in REPS to RUSTY:
Being a member is free. I became a paying member long ago for many reasons, but mostly so I'd have a PM mailbox that doesn't fill up. I talk to a lot of people on here, and get a lot out of every minute spent on FTE. I have saved easily a thousand times more money than I have spent on FTE because I was warned before doing things the most expensive way possible
(not to mention painful)
You don't have to shell out to be here at all -
BUT IT SURE MAKES IT SWEET!
~Wolfie
(member since 2001)
Being a member is free. I became a paying member long ago for many reasons, but mostly so I'd have a PM mailbox that doesn't fill up. I talk to a lot of people on here, and get a lot out of every minute spent on FTE. I have saved easily a thousand times more money than I have spent on FTE because I was warned before doing things the most expensive way possible
(not to mention painful)
You don't have to shell out to be here at all -
BUT IT SURE MAKES IT SWEET!
~Wolfie
(member since 2001)
#59
Nowhere in this thread is there any mention at all of TPO roofs, just EDPM.
TPO is a different material. It is NOT EDPM, and even though Dicor will adhere to it if it is cleaned real well, re-covering it with a roll-on material will likely take a different procedure with different materials (or at least a different primer).
TPO is not a new material for roofing, as my 1999 Forrest River Flagstaff has it. It has held up very well, and there are no thin or "blueing" spots anywhere. Wish I could say the same for all the supplemental sealing compounds.
What I am saying is:
Know with absolute certainty of what material your roofing membrane is made if/when it becomes necessary to re-coat it.
Pop
TPO is a different material. It is NOT EDPM, and even though Dicor will adhere to it if it is cleaned real well, re-covering it with a roll-on material will likely take a different procedure with different materials (or at least a different primer).
TPO is not a new material for roofing, as my 1999 Forrest River Flagstaff has it. It has held up very well, and there are no thin or "blueing" spots anywhere. Wish I could say the same for all the supplemental sealing compounds.
What I am saying is:
Know with absolute certainty of what material your roofing membrane is made if/when it becomes necessary to re-coat it.
Pop
#60
I SECOND THAT! Using the wrong material is worse than leaving it alone...
I worked on a Mini-Winnie for a friend today, and I still haven't figured out what that roof is made of. It 's a coach that has been used-sold out of Southhaven RV of Mississippi many times, and they tried to reglue about a quarter of curb side after water seperated a good stretch of it. The roof looks like the same gel-glass as the sides, and the leaks could only have come from upstairs around the edge of something - but there's no trace of where, as if the original problem was cleaned up.
WATER WILL REMAIN inside a coach forever and a day unless it is tracked down and got rid of...
I worked on a Mini-Winnie for a friend today, and I still haven't figured out what that roof is made of. It 's a coach that has been used-sold out of Southhaven RV of Mississippi many times, and they tried to reglue about a quarter of curb side after water seperated a good stretch of it. The roof looks like the same gel-glass as the sides, and the leaks could only have come from upstairs around the edge of something - but there's no trace of where, as if the original problem was cleaned up.
WATER WILL REMAIN inside a coach forever and a day unless it is tracked down and got rid of...
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