Im ready to flush my coolant, now what brand is the best for my 99.5? do they make one with the additive included, or will I have to add that seperate. Ill be using distilled water , how many gallons?

also gonna get some royal purple to change my diff. how much will I need for 4x4

thanks

 

Shell Rotella ELC. Good for 300,000 miles with no additives necessary. It has the appearance of cherry flavored Kool-aid.

http://www.shell-lubricants.com/prod...tella_elc.html

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And I just found this snippet on thier FAQ page.

ROTELLA ELC is compatible with Caterpillar Extended Life, Texaco Extended Life, and Detroit Diesel POWER-COOL PLUS. If you can't find ROTELLA ELC, then using any of these products will not diminish the performance of your coolant

 

It doesn't Taste like coolaid though, Red is the way to go - worry free and no compatability issues

Front diff 75W90 - 5.9pints

Rear Diff 75W140 - 7.0pints

The royal purple allready has the friction modifiers in it so you wont need to add anything to the diffs

 

thanks for replys, however, I have read that the ELC are not to be used on pre 2002, something about water pump seals and injector sleeve deterioration

 

Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant, been working in mine for years, no water to destroy parts (thats what water does), no pressure, -45dg, wont boil until 400dg, lubricant, wont corrode radiator, pump, hoses, and the best part, no additives needed. 400,000 miles life cycle. Raises the engine temp 5dg (good for a diesel) better burn. Little pricey but it's worth every penny. Works for me without problems. 99.5 P/S, 68k.

 

i'm interested in this thread, i'm getting ready to change coolant myself. i know there was a bunch of threads a couple of months ago about the best way to get all the coolant out of the engine. i remember that you have to get all the old coolant out of the engine and radiator and let it dry before you put in Evans or ELC for contamination issues. sounds like a messy and wet job!

-mike

 

Mike, I dont know if this will help but , I probably didn't do a complete/correct job it myself. When I changed mine, I drained as much of the old water coolant as possible. I then blew out the heater core gently. There are two drain plugs on the side of the 7.3. that I was not smart enough to remove. I then filled the system with NPG+ and drilled a very, very small hole (per instruction) in the radi/cap. Because it's now a non pressurized system. I then sent a very small sample to the company (who checks for water) for free. The minimum of water is 3%. Well I had more than that. The company stated to run with the radiator cap off and the small amount of water will steam out, which it did. Everything is great now. It's been in the system for years, never lost a drop. They have a very good web site that might impress you, and they are extremely helpful. Thats all I did and never looked back. Within a week I was on my way to Naples Florida, the temp was in the high 90's, I was pulling a 12k trailer. I could smell the old antifreeze as it was being expounged from he system. The small amount of odor stopped and I put the cap back on. Been running great winter and summer. Hope this helps.

 

DIESEL OPERATION WITH EVANS NPG+ AVAILABLE IMPROVEMENTS IN:

DURABILITY • MAINTENANCE COSTS • FUEL ECONOMY • EMISSIONS

TESTED 1,000,000 MILES WITHOUT COOLANT CHANGES OR SCA's
PROVIDES THE COOLING SYSTEM WITH A "RESERVE CAPACITY"
OBVIATES THE NEED FOR ENGINE POWER DE-RATING
SEVERS THE CONNECTION BETWEEN COOLING SYSTEM FAILURE AND THE BOILING POINT OF WATER
ENDS COOLANT MAINTENANCE AND EXPENSE
ELIMINATES CAVITATION OF CYLINDER LINERS OR PUMPS
ELIMINATES NEED FOR SUPPLEMENTARY COOLANT ADDITIVES
IMPROVES CONTROL OF METAL TEMPERATURES
ELIMINATES SYSTEM SCALING
IMPROVES FUEL ECONOMY
PROVIDES A LOW-PRESSURE SYSTEM
LENGTHENS LIFE OF HOSES
REDUCES CORROSION
REDUCES EMISSIONS
LENGTHENS LIFE OF ENGINE
STOPS COOLING SYSTEM ELECTROLYSIS
EXTENDS LIFE OF RADIATOR AND COOLANT PUMP
REDUCES ENGINE NOISE
REDUCED TOXICITY COMPARED WITH CONVENTIONAL FORMULATIONS