I run full syn oil. Do i need the $13 K&N or the standard $4 Fram? We are still changing the filters with the oil change, correct?

2006 F350 V10 gas

 

If your going spend all that money on synthetic oil why not get a top quality filter.
I run regular oil and Chang every 3000 miles so I get the 4 dollar one.

Don't you go further on the oil changes with Synthetic?
Just wandering in case I ever decide to switch.

Oh and we do still change the filter every time we change the oil.I do anyway.

 

There really is a difference in filters given the micron size of the filter media. Some have very small micron size but restrict flow, some will have high micron size to allow flow at the compromise of filtering. I stay with Motorcraft on the superduty and Delco on the corvette. At least I know they met the warranty requirments.

I have seen filters come apart at the seams where the body seals to the attaching point. I have also seen filters that look nice on the outside but little inside.

Jim

 

Thanks for the info.

You seem to have the same vehicle combination i have. Your opinons may be the most useful or you just have good taste in vehicles.

Thanks again

 

Yes, change the filter every oil change.

You absolutely need to stay away from Fram oil filters. The only way I could recommend them is if you buy one in your size and cut it open to see if that type has the cardboard end-caps. Some do, some don't. It isn't worth it to me to spend the time an money when there are so many good filters elsewhere for the same price.

K&N filters are good, but their only claims to fame are the nut on the end and the extra thick can. I don't need either for that price.

Personally, I use Purolator PureOne on all my vehicles. They're good enough for the price, and I don't run them long enough to worry about it. 4-5k mile changes are good for me.

 

I use syn in almost everything. I do not like extended oil drain intervals, but I do change at the factory "normal" interval.

If you do go with extended drain intervals like 15,000 miles and more, I have read you should change the filter at the "normal" interval anyway and top up with fresh oil. In my mind, if I have to go thru the trouble of changing the filter, I might as well change the oil too, so this is half the reason I don't do extended intervals. The other is I didn't like the funny rainbow brown color of the oil after 15K miles.

As far as filter quality, do a web search for "oil filter study". It is all over the place. Has good info especially on who makes what brand or store brand filter. Choose the main manufacturer you like and then see what store brand they make. You can often buy the identical filter in a different box for a lot less.

When I lived in the NW, I used to buy the GI Joe's Powerflow store brand. It was identical to the Purolator who is often the Ford manufacturer. I could get the Powerflows at almost half price of a Purolator and still have the same filter.

My personal preferences are Purolator and their store brands, and Wix made by Dana. I used to use Frams a long time ago and NEVER had a problem, but it seems like the negative press is against Fram for now. A good by pass filter is probably good if you want to go to extreme extended drain intervals, but at least on my 94 F250 I do not think there is any place to mount it.

Just my opinion,

Jim Henderson

 

First of all take the K&N oil filter COMPLTELY off the list! I run a few K&N air filters on some off-road toys so I'm not a K&N basher but their oil filters are nothing but a scam. Search the web for some REAL studies showing flow rates and micron filtration and you'll see they're very poor.

Save the filter change for when you change the oil. I try to run 10K OCIs and I've never changed the filter before the oil. My last Blackstone report gave me no reason to change my habits either. If you're a Fram guy go with the TG series, they're a WHOLE different beast from the orange can. More flow, better filtration and a screened bypass. I'm a long time TG user but nobody trusts Fram anymore so my public top pics would be M1 and PureOne. They're both good ones too.

 

I have run Napa gold (made by wix) and Wix filters on everything I own from the race truck to my PSD and the wifes expy to my semi and farm tractors been about the best ones I can find from what looking I have done and the price isn't out of range either. just My honest opinion though

 

Sometimes, an oil filter that is packed with a thick media element, actually will slow down the flow of oil at this part of the engine. Makes sense when you think about it.

I think simply using a regular oil filter, Purolator, Motorcraft, Wix, Baldwin, Hastings ect. is the way to go, then change oil at around 4k-5500K mileage, with a new oil filter.

I have no interest in keeping oil inside an engine after 8,000 -- 10,000 miles with certain oil filters, even though it might be safe to do so.

Just my opinion.

 

uhm, stay clear of fram. motorcraft filters are only about 50 cents to a buck more. if motorcraft isn't available, just stay away from fram. you should be alright on almost any other brand.

 

Yikes!! I've been using the HP2010's for about 25,000 miles in my '03 Expy. since the nut on the end makes it easier to get it out of that black hole that Ford put it in. Can you link to one of the studies you mention OSin86?

 

Check out BITOG ....

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

The FL820S is actually very good, and can be had for a very reasonable price in WalMart. Purolators have identical/very similar filter elements, but their bypass valve is inferior. There were some older thread about it, BTW.

 

Here's the thread about the FL820S vs. the other filters: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-m1-210-a.html
check some of the links there, too

 

Here's a good one.... http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

Look at the average pore size in comparison to others and then ask yourself why the most expensive one has the worst filtration. It's a shame to see K&N pushing such a scam. The only way you might want that filter is if you were running it on a race car with a high volume pump.