What's the best starter insulation arrangement?
#1
What's the best starter insulation arrangement?
All hail exhaust gurus! Got a '73 f100 2wd 302 c4. I had headers w/duals put on and while it all fits and works well, I want to protect the starter from the header heat. As you know the header runs very close to the starter. I know about starter blankets but worry that the blanket might actually cause heat by keeping any air from flowing around it. I know about header wrap, but worry about warping/corrosion. Am anxious to hear pros and cons on these two methods. Also wondering if anyone knows of any heat insulation material that would work that is maybe not normally used for aotomotive applications. I'm starting to feel a lot of love in the room, already. Thanks.
Roger
Roger
#2
Let me take you in another direction. I am thinking of a sheet metal heat shield. The main way heat gets from the headers to the starter is radiation. (The other two methods of moving heat are convection & conduction - neither of these is as important at the very hot temperatures of exhaust headers.) This can be as simple as a very large can (like coffee used to come in). All you need to do is have the sheet metal block the direct path of heat radiation from the pipes to the starter. (OF COURSE you do not want to short anything out, but otherwise dimensions are not critical. Tabs of sheet metal can be attached to existing starter bolts.
I have made these before (& you can buy them). About 1/2" of air-space from the starter with the ends of the cylinder open, will allow air to flow through & actually cool the starter. If you can mail me a cardboard pattern, I would be happy to fab one for you, if you do not have the tools to do it yourself. (I believe the 2-hole starter on my 240 & 300 is the same size as yours.)
If you have doubts, look at the heat shield between ANY cat converter and the floor-boards.
I have made these before (& you can buy them). About 1/2" of air-space from the starter with the ends of the cylinder open, will allow air to flow through & actually cool the starter. If you can mail me a cardboard pattern, I would be happy to fab one for you, if you do not have the tools to do it yourself. (I believe the 2-hole starter on my 240 & 300 is the same size as yours.)
If you have doubts, look at the heat shield between ANY cat converter and the floor-boards.
#3
Thanks, acheda. I like your idea...makes good sense. I also have noticed that the two metal transmission lines just below the starter are actually resting (with a little tension) against the header. I don't like this and feel something should be done. In searching, someone said in an old post to cut the lines and attach rubber hoses. Sounds reasonable, but what do you cut them with so as not to crimp the cut end. And what about all the fluid that will be coming out? Ever addressed this on your vehicle? What about just bending the heck out of 'em?
#4
I would try to avoid cutting your trans cooler lines if you can. Is it possible to dress them out of the way, perhaps using a few tethers to, say, pan bolts? (Some early Fords actually had a clip on the side of the block to keep these lines in place.) These steel lines are hard to bend without getting kinked, but if you keep the bends gentle, you should be OK. If you cut the lines you will not spill enought fluid to cost much, but you do need something to avoid making a mess. (I assume you will not cut the lines while the engine is running - now that would really make a MESS.)
Last edited by acheda; 03-05-2007 at 10:48 AM. Reason: spelin . . .
#5
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