Modular V10 (6.8l)  

$1200 repair, help any options!!!!!

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Old 02-28-2007, 10:01 AM
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$1200 repair, help any options!!!!!

So I took my 03' in to get the driver side warped manifold fixed. Only the front top stud was broken and I was getting it removed and and the manifold machined. I bought all new studs and a new fel-pro gasket too. So they called me today and said that all the studs were so badly rusted they all are snapping off. The manifold is rusted so bad it's pitted and not making a good seal either. So the bottom line is I need a new manifold and the head has to be removed to drill out all the studs. So I'm looking at about $1200 total. I really thought this was a great truck, but I'm loosing faith quickly. Are there any other options? Is removing the head easy enough to do myself? Will it ever run the same changing the driverside head gasket and not the right? What should I do?

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Old 02-28-2007, 10:09 AM
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Changing one head gasket and not the other will not hurt a thing.
As for doing it yourself,,it's a big job and they might need to pull the motor to get to them. I know the 5.4 is very tight and the V10 will be even harder.
I tried to get some head work done on my 5.4 and they would not do it without pulling the motor!
Might be better off letting them do it.
 
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:09 AM
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I have 3 broken studs on my passenger side and one on my drivers.
This is a job I will have to do this summer but I am not planning on removing the heads!
The studs can be coaxed out with a few different methods. I am going to fire up the MIG and weld on the end of the broken stud enough to extract it.
If that doesn't work I will use the pencil torch and heat the head up slightly around the stud.
Finally, I will drill the studs out if it comes to that.
But paying someone else to do this type of work gets very expensive indeed.
 
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:44 AM
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I had my right side manifold replaced because it was warped and a stud was gone. Thank god it was under warranty. It was close to $1750. It is a big job. I am fairly handy and would never even think about doing it. It took my dealer close to 10 hours to do it. Match that with new brakes and shocks, I was very happy to have a warranty. It paid for itself multiple times in one visit.
 
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:15 PM
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Well I'm a Newbie here, but I assume we are talking exhaust manifold replacement. Since you are looking at this big of a fix, maybe this would be a good time to install a good set of after-market headers. I wouldn't think that headers wouldn't cost much more than OEM Ford exhaust manifold replacements.
Since you are talking about footing the bill your self it would appear that the warranty is out.
Just a thought.
 
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:49 PM
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There are additional "flaps" that go inside the fender wells to help keep crud and stuff out of the engine bay. The manifolds are especially vunerable becuase of the gap.

The flaps (I cannot think of a better word) are OEM for early build Super Dutys with the diesel and can be readily had at any Ford dealer. I put a set on my 2000 Excursion and it helped keep all the salt, snow and mud out and off the manifolds.

Once you decide on how you're gonna fix the problem it might be good idea to invest in them. they are about $30 each side. Look inside the fender (behind the wheel) and you'll see the holes where the push pins go in.


ON EDIT: Here's the part numbers. One is left, other is right.

YC3Z-16102-BA
YC3Z-16103-BA

Here's what they look like.

 

Last edited by Monsta; 02-28-2007 at 01:16 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:55 PM
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That's cool Monsta. Do you know if they have the same type of set up for the rear? I am looking for good protections in all four wheel wells.
 
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Old 02-28-2007, 02:11 PM
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Nothing for the back. I'm sure you could fab something up with the same type of material, though.
 
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:16 AM
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Someone recently had the same problem, looking at getting a head removed because all the studs were breaking off.

One shop said "have to remove the head" - blah blah blah...

Took it somewhere else, they got all the studs out with no problems.

Much smaller bill at the end too

I'd definitely look around for a second opinion...
 
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:45 AM
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The shop called today. The truck is finished and they were able to drill and tap without removing the head. Apparently the manifold was true when they measured it and it was the old rusted studs that were not holding the manifold on tight enough. 5 broke and 5 came out. replaced all with new studs and it runs and sounds great! He gave me the "worse case scenario" at $1200 but it came out to $400 in the end. So I'm happy I avoided an empty wallet. I'm going straight to Ford to order those eary model wheel well covers. I don't want to deal with this again.
 
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:58 AM
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Good deal. Glad it worked out for ya.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 03:36 AM
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I just bought a 2004 , and while topping off the oil I noticed the dirt sling from wheel well. Wow , thanks to all , I'm going to search for those flaps soon. One related ?. The push pins you mention. Where did you find them ? Any part # handy for them. Thanks for the heads up . Priceless
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 03:38 AM
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Mine came with them but they are available at the parts counter or anywhere where automotive body shop supplies are sold. I don't have a part numer...sorry...
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:08 AM
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It might be cheaper to just buy some thick vinyl, those pushpins, and do it yourself...
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 03:49 PM
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Anyone ever try to replace these before they are a problem?

Is there a better part available in stainless or from ARP?

I just looked at mine (2003 w/21K miles) and they are very rusty and weak looking.

I'd rather do it as a planned repair than a hurried catastrophe.

Greg
 


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