I hate to ask a real stupid question but I havent dealt with these in a long time.

The Mazda dealer gave me a cork pan gasket instead of the rubber kind, didn't notice till i got back.

Can I use vaseline with this type of gasket or would I have to use adhesive??

Thanks

 

neither, ur talking pan. we are talking valve body. two different issues

Matt

 

Just got done with the the valve body and trying to wrap this thing up.

The regular rubber gaskets for the pan can be installed using vaseline.

The question is can the cork type gasket be installed using vaseline?

 

i never use anything on them, just make sure they are flat. when installing, look for them to press out a little and stop tightening. if u over tighten, it will kill the gasket

Matt

 

OK great Thanks so much. Wasnt sure... the last time I used a cork one was 10 years ago, and I remember using adhesive which I did not want to do. So I'll go ahead and wrap it up now. I'll let you know how it went (cross fingers)...........

 

IMO, you should pick up one of the reusable rubber composite gaskets.

 

i personally like cork, i can make it seal easier. some people like rubber tho. this gasket shouldnt slip because it goes around the bolts.

Matt

 

Ok. bad start - - - new battery dead f$5#%% - - - started ---- shifts nicely took up and down the path everything seems to be working good. Tomorrow will take on the road to see how it goes thru all gears. will report back with all symptoms and mazda part no.s for those with mazdafords. Nite....

 

In my Ranger, I can run around in 1st for as long as I want, and it will still slow me down. That's why I'm not certain its the valve body

 

I just finished a filter change & tranny fluid pump out on my Ragers 5R55E & Taurus AXODE & used Felpro reuseable composit pan gaskets on both.

The Felpro gasket comes packaged so it'll lay flat on the pan, right out of the box & has the bolt holes punched slightly undersized, so we can screw the pan bolts into it & it'll hold them & the gasket in place, freeing up both hands while we fiddle with aligning the pan & starting a couple of bolts to hold it up.

Two simple ideas, but it actually makes installing the pan a pleasure!!!!!

 

yea, my cork gaskets have always been slightly smaller to allow holding the bolts. my problem is lack of room. them to top it off i installed a temp sensor. this sucker made installing the pan a trick. i usually take my gaskets out the day before and lay them out on the bench and lay something on them so they will be flat. i did my tranny oil every 20-30k so the gasket didnt need to be anything fancy.

I ALWAYS ALWAYS used lucus transmission supplement. this also helps seal her up

Matt

 

If it's warm out, just lay the gasket in the sun, or use a hair drier or heat gun to warm them up in a hurry, so they'll lay flat.

At one time I used a light buttering of chassis grease, on the outer edges of the gasket, to hold it in place, but I didn't really like doing that, because if you mess up & use too much, such that it mashes out inside, it might mix with & mess up the fluids friction properties.

Now since using Felpros reuseable composit gaskets, with the fastner holding holes, I don't need anything to hold the gasket in place, nor all those strong words of persuasion to cause that danged gasket to lay flat & stay in place, while I fiddle with aligning the pan.

The only additive I've ever used in my tranny is Seafoam "Trans Tune", to tidy up what I believe was a sticking solenoid & only did this long enough for it to clear the problem up, then did a filter change & a complete tranny fluid pump out.

I've always used Motorcraft Mercon products, changed at Fords severe service intervials, but even so, have had some acting out tranny problems, that seem to have been caused by slight deposit formations, maybe a little gum, varnish, or sludge.
Anyway the addition of half to one can of Seafoam Trans Tune detergent & driving until the problem cleared up, then doing a filter change & tranny fluid pump out, has so far put the fix on it.

Makes me wonder if the Motorcraft Mercon tranny fluid recipe is as robust as it needs to be?????
I've had this happen on both Mercon & Mercon-V fluids & both were being changed at, or before the severe service call outs!!!!

 

Gave her a full test drive today .....and......IT WORKED! The long harsh shift from 2nd - 3rd is gone (and this was with one qt low). So thanks to fordboy and everyone else.

This was on a 1996 Mazda B-3000 alias Ford Ranger 3.0 2wd automatic 4R44e tranny.

The cork gasket from Mazda did fine with some vaseline to keep it in place - vaseline is soluble so it shouldn't have any effect in mixing with any fluid. Used lucas additive and 6 qts of Castrol Mercon V (and needs 1 more qt.)= 7 qts + lucas. Also drilled 1/2 inch hole in pan and welded a nut + bolt and washer for future draining of fluid.

Just a recap the Ford Dealer in Raleigh, NC told me that the valve body plate was no longer available by itself and the entire valve body assembly would have to be purchased which included the plate for $924 retail (yea right). Ford did have the two plate gaskets available. Mazda did have the plate and gaskets available along with the blow off valve TSB kit without having to buy the whole valve body. So in case your Ford dealer cannot help you you may want to try Mazda. They probably have this stuff laying around because everybody probably goes to Ford to buy.

 

yea ford boy-usually with a cork gasket. The one from Mazda though was thick and it came plastic wrapped on a piece of cardboard so it lay flat (how nice of them). The gasket also had the little metal thingys built in.

I'll post some of these Mazda part no.s for reference when I go clean up tomorrow.

 

I have a 2000 3.0 auto. How do I know what kind of tranny it has? The Haynes manual says 4R44E for four cylinder and 3.0 v6. Where can I find this info and how do these trannys compary to the old C3,C4, and C6. Will an automatic out of a 5.0 mustang fit?