Why do you say this?

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...uck_5W-40.aspx

 

[QUOTE=kw5413]Why do you say this?

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx[/QUOTE]

I'm going by just what I've have read here on FTE . I havn't researched it but trusted those who have posted it before me.

 

Well, the Mobil link clearly states that it is fully synthetic.

 

This was posted by xtrford in the oil and lube forum.

Group III is highly refined crude in which the base stock is hydrocracked, legally in North America it can be classified as a "synthetic" oil ie Castrol, Pennsoil, Quacker State, and now even Mobil 1.

Group IV is PAO base stock and is a true synthetic oil ei, Amsoil (although some of there oils are GrpIII), Royal Purple, German Castrol, and most European oils.

Group V are made up of Esters for there base stock and is a true synthetic oil ei, Redline and Mutol, there are probably more out there, Ill let the gurus name them.

 

How 'bout mobil jet II, 2380, Mobil 254. all jet aircraft oil. and ester based.

 

Thanks for the further research and explanation. I have e-mailed Mobil for their explanation as well. I'll report back with their answer...if they provide one.

 

Wait a second. This is a good post. We all know how important Oil is to an engine that uses oil pressure in the injectors to depend on their operation.<O</O

I have this intermittent No start, Yes Crank issue when my truck is hot (not overheated). The second time it went back to the dealer, they wanted to blame my use of Shell Rotella (dino) 15w40 and the fact that I got my filter from NAPA. I have used this oil from the very first Oil Change. I have always changed every 5000 miles, except when at 50000, I went to 60000 before I changed the oil (I'm bad) I also use this in my HINO Boat diesels even though they want a straight 30w

I let the dealer do an oil change and they used the Motorcraft 5w30 because its cold here in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[img] /><st1:City w:st=[/img]<ST1[img] /><st1:City w:st=[/img]Philadelphia</ST1lace </st1:City>this time of year. So far this week, I havent had any no start issues, sometimes it goes more than a week before it happens. Only happens when the truck is hot and I am doing 80-90mph on the highway.

Anyway, I wanted to switch over to a Synth Oil, but with the dealer wanted to blame no start issues on my choice of oils and filters, I dont know if I should. I am thinking about going to the Shell Rotella Synth, but I am worried now. If I do have an issue with my HPOP, what if the dealer wants to void the warranty because of my choice of oil.

I keep thinking, what if there is a sludge build up on the HPOP screen.

On another note, I have a 98 V6 ford explorer with 300,000 miles on it, always used dino and with my daughter using it oil changes are around every 20,000 miles, still running with clean plugs.<O></O>

 

interesting web site I found is http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html. Talks abotu the different groups of oil. It states that mobil delvac 1, rotell t, mobil 1 suv arc "C" (comercial) rated oils so they have a more extensive and expensive additive package to promote engine life, they also say they are 50,000 mile rated oils (in rigs)

 

Well, your dealer was partially right on both accounts. Ditch the Crapa oil filter, and get an oem racor, (IH, Motorcraft, or Fram) several people have had drainback issues (could cause a dry start). Second several dealerships have been reporting excessive fuel injector stiction issues with rotella t 15W40, and valvoline premuim blue 15W40. While it was downplayed by Ford and Shell (Shell even had a press release about it, that much of a stink was caused, Ashland just chose to ignore it I think) So much so that it was becomming a warranty issue, hence the injector buzz flash. The syn 5W40 rotella has not shown any of these issues at all. Something cheap to try and see if it helps anyway. I will post this disclaimer, if you are using either of these 2 oils and not having issues, great, don't shoot the messenger.

 

This mirrors what I know as well. Mobil 1 use to be a Group IV and now is a group III.

 

Thanks for the information. I didn’t know about the Oil issue. I sure would like to see the press releases. I must ask about the filter. How can a filter cause a drain back issue? That would be a result of a bad check valve. I wasnt aware that<st1:city w:st="on"><st1> NAPA</st1></st1:city> filters were crap. In fact, I herd that all the Ford Diesel filters were all manufactured by Racor resold by other names. I do know that Fram filter have had issues, cardboard end caps and plastic bypass valves. When did Fram become quality?

I know Racor filters very well. I have a diesel boat and use Racor Products. However I use Baldwin Oil filters, plastic end caps and metal bypass ball valves. The Hino Filters are too expensive because they come from <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1>Japan</st1>.</st1:country-region>

 

With a cartridge filter like the 6.0, if the filter don't fit right, the cainster will drain back. Hence the loosening of the filter housing cap to drain the oil out of it. Napa and Wix are a cheap "will fit" copy, as are purolator, and a few others. The only current repackaged Racor filters are as follows....Fram, IH, and Motorcraft. Wix was for a while, til they got greedy and had a will fit version made up for a few dollars, and are still selling it for the same cost as a racor.

 

This is the response from ExxonMobil:

Thank you for your inquiry,

To meet the demanding requirements of today's
specifications (and our customers' expectations) Mobil 1 uses
high-performance synthetic fluids, including polyalphaolefins
(PAO, groupIV),
along
with a proprietary system of additives. In fact, each Mobil 1
viscosity
grade uses a specific combination of synthetic fluids and selected
additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its unique
requirement.

Mobil1 motor oils are 100% synthetic and offer the best overall
protection and performance in the real world. Consumers need to focus on
end performance not how we or any other petroleum manufcaturer gets there.

--
Thank you for choosing ExxonMobil products.
If you need further assistance, please contact ExxonMobil at 1-800-ASK-MOBIL

 

Well there you have it. Keith Thanks for clearing this up .

 

Well, I have been thinking of using Royal Purple 15W40 and a Fram Toughguard oil filter. I used to like Wix when they had the all metal end caps but I hear now they are cardboard crap. What ever happened to quality made products?