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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Help removing fenders/rusty bolts

 
  #16  
Old 02-21-2007, 06:34 PM
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Boo-ya! 20 minutes and my front cap is off.Two nuts/bolts under each hood hinge,one on passenger side inner fender to firewall and two under the radiator.Running board nuts/bolts were already off.Got home from work,first decent day in forever and got something done.It's going to be a great summer.Digital cam appears to be broken,all the pics came out black.

-Shawn
 
  #17  
Old 02-21-2007, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Hey, Felix!

I hear ya, Buddy! Ease up on the body damage.

A very good way to remove rusty bolts is to tighten them until they break. Definately use an impact wrench. It helps to have a buddy hold the other side with a breaker bar. You can do that on the truck or after you remove the whole clip like Bob said.

Works like a charm. You'll have the whole thing apart in an hour.
You got It Randy Jack. That is the fastest, easest, and dose the least damage. It is Sooooooooo much easyer.
 
  #18  
Old 03-10-2007, 10:08 PM
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Ok. I've got a new for you guys. First of all, thank you very much for your help/advice. I don't remember if i got around to saying so before. The whole breaker bar and tighten and THEN loosen tip was a lifesaver.

But now, ive got nuts that wont come off of the bolt. Ive got some that wont move at all and the whole bolt with nut and all spins. Then I have some that the nut gets all the way to the top and stops.

I am having a real pain in the @$$ time with taking the front clip off STILL!?!?!?

can you believe this? i have tried sawing at them with an airsaw and that was a joke.

I tried cutting them off with a 3" air cut off wheel thing and that gets me to about half way and then does nothing. As soon as the wheel gets to the bolt, it doesnt go much further if at all.

i tried an air chisel and that chipped some of the nut off but only after i cut into it.
get this though, the nut still wont come off!?!?!?!


i tried with a short handled hack saw . . . what a joke

what else, lets see . . . i tried with a box end wrench on one side and a socket on the other. . . . i can get it to come close to coming off but it stops at the end. and when i say stop i mean dead stop. . . all of a sudden this nut that turning as it lifted my spirits screeches to a dead stop and isnt budging.

whats annoying is i have to do this all on the floor because i can't jack my truck up. my garage isnt long enough to work on my truck AND have the engine hoist under it. at least not if i want to move it later that is. its one of those new construction homes so they dont take practicality into consideration.

if i want to use the hoist and or maybe move it out of my way later, i need to be able to roll the truck back and then move it back up when im done for the day

kind of annoying.

anyway, so what do i do guys? i heard that i should try torching them. i also was told to not bother with a butane/propane torch because it wont heat the bolt/nut up enough. i dont want to spend 300 bucks on an oxyacetylene torch just for a few bolts. surely there is a less expensive method.

sure i could probably use that later on but isnt there a less expensive method? dont get me wrong. at this point. . . i will buy an oxyacetylene torch with a huge smile on my face if you guys tell me its my best or guaranteed bet.

thanks again guys.
you all are invaluable to me.
 
  #19  
Old 03-10-2007, 10:47 PM
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I've always just removed the front clip, flipped it upside down and cut all the bolts with a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Depending on the truck I can have the entire front clip in pieces in under 1 hour.
 
  #20  
Old 03-10-2007, 11:44 PM
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It sounds to me like the threads that stick past the nuts are rusty and when you get so far turning them off the rust starts binding up the threads. With a decent impact wrench you should be able to brake them off no problem by tightening them.

You can grind the threads that are sticking past the nut off and then try loosening them this should keep them from binding up, or grind the whole bolt off. You can get one of those nut splitter things and try to cut the nut in half, but they never seem to work very well. Or get a little propane torch and get them as hot as you can and then hose them down with WD-40 this works sometimes. My perferred method is grinding them off or cutting them with a torch but be carefull you can do a lot of damage in a hurry. Another thought, if you have an arc welder get some cutting rod or the smallest rod you can buy and turn the amps way up and cut them off that way.

Hope this helps
 
  #21  
Old 03-11-2007, 04:29 AM
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ok for some reason, this darned thing didnt save/post my response

i basically said thanks for responding etc etc

also talked about how my air ratchet would just stop when the nut is stuck. its THAT stuck!

also commented on how i had a thought last night after i posted.

im gonna try my old dremel. i seem to remember that thing cutting through just about anything.

i'll let you guys know how that goes.

51dueller, thats my whole problem. i can't get the clip off BECAUSE of these bolts.

at first i needed help taking the fenders off and someone suggested removing the front clip. i started trying to do that but now have run into pretty much the same bolt problem.

at least this gets me to learn my truck real well

ill let you guys know how it goes today.
 
  #22  
Old 03-11-2007, 08:53 AM
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OK, let's start at the root of this problem: Using the wrong/cheap tools for the job. Buying good tools is a lot cheaper than a trip to the emergency room! Stop shopping at HF, NT and go to Sears (Craftsman brand ONLY), Lowes, or Home Depot (Major brand only). You get what you pay for when buying tools.
1. lube/pentrating oil. There is no good common substitute here! Use only "Liquid wrench" or "PB blaster". Anything else (WD 40, Pepsi, salad oil, pee, etc) is a waste of time/money/effort. Soak the fastener, let sit for 24hrs, soak again allow to sit a few more hrs before attempting removal.
2. wrenches. Use ONLY QUALITY 6 point sockets, box wrenches to remove. Quality sockets have a special design that puts the pressure on the flats of the bolt/nut rather than on the corners to reduce risk of rounding off corners.
3. Impact wrench: Law of deminishing returns- the cheaper the wrench the more air will be needed to drive it to do serious work. Any 1/2" drive air impact wrench that sells for < 100.00 is a kids toy/noisemaker IMHO. A real imact wrench will spec the maximum torque in a couple hundred FOOT pounds range at a certain air pressure/volume. If there is no spec or speced in INCH pounds, buy a good sized breaker bar with the money instead.
4. Compressor. Any 110V portable compressor will be underpowered to drive air tools. Air tools require a large VOLUME of high pressure air that the small compressor will not be capable of sustaining for more than a few seconds of use, then the tool's performance will drop off dramatically. Sorry, that's a fact. The cheaper air tools will give a pressure/volume spec that is required to minimally operate the tool in the air, the real in-use requirement will be 2-4 times that figure.
5. right tool for the job. Spend your money to buy a name brand electric powered 4" angle grinder (Makita brand sells at Home Depot for 40-60.00) a dozen or two 1/16" cut off wheels and MOST IMPORTANT a full face safety shield, heavy leather gloves, and safety glasses. These wheels will catch, break and/or throw pieces of wheel and hot metal with significant force and will do major hand and face damage if you don't protect yourself!!!
When cutting a nut off a bolt, cut the protruding portion of the bolt off first flush with the nut. Try to wrench it off now. If still frozen, DON'T try to cut the nut off flush with the surface, especially on sheet metal. cut straight into the bolt/nut splitting the bolt down the center and stopping just before touching the sheet metal. A pair of vise grips or a cold chisel placed in the slot will make quick work of finishing breaking the nut into 2 pieces.


Footnote: Don't try to save/reuse rusty original fasteners, go to a good fastener supplier and buy replacements. DON'T replace them them with the soft common standard bolts and nuts that you find in the big plastic bins at the local DIY store.
 

Last edited by AXracer; 03-11-2007 at 09:04 AM.
  #23  
Old 03-11-2007, 10:42 AM
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Good post Ax. Well put and well covered.
I have been trying to give you one.
But for me the point system isn't working.
 

Last edited by arctic y block; 03-11-2007 at 10:45 AM.
  #24  
Old 03-11-2007, 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the help AxRacer

All my air tools are HF for now. Only because i just started a new better paying job only recently. I have already learned the hard way (as i new before but ignored because i wanted to just get started) that i need better quality tools.

hell, i have had to return just about every single HF tool i own at least once--as in, some i have had to return twice-- because they have died (air tools i mean)

this one tech (oil change guy)at the auto repair shop i work at swears by his HF tools
and says he has had no problems.

the rest use mac or snap on. i guess thats why he is only the oil change/car wash guy. lol

anyway, so yeah, i have my eye on a few air tools from mac. i hear they are more economical than snap on but have a lower quality then snap on.

relative to HF i can't imagine i can go wrong.

i will try pawn shops too, i have seen some good craftsman and snap on tools for cheap (relatively)

everything i own is craftsman except my air tools.

and my breaker bar. it is NT.

as far as an update . . . i got the engine out today. wow what a bitch. in retrospect i guess it wasnt so bad. have you guys seen heroes on nbc? i felt like Hiro when he got to New york the first time lol (if you watch it you know what i mean--if you dont, feel safe in knowing i did one of those dorky "i did it" type of cheers lol)

i was able to use my air cut of wheel (3'') to cut into the one motor mount hole that was left and then when i couldnt get the nut to come off i got pissed and started whacking the **** out of the bolt just cause i was pissed not cause i thought it would help and wouldn't you know . . . the sun of a bitch popped right out! lol

i was like . . . whaaa??? yeahhh!!! and whacked harder lol
i then proceeded to get all the bolts off of the bellhousing which i later learned i didnt need to do and started lifting the engine. the rest is history . . .

still got the damned front clip on though lol

i bought an air chisel yesterday to help and it has somewhat helped. i couldnt find my dremel so i used an HF copy that i bought for my mom since she requested it for a ack up for her craft stuff and that didnt go well either.

it is cordless so
a. if it isnt fully charged it starts dying quickly.
b. once you give it a load it caves.

so back to the drawing board on the front clip.

better tools, thats my only option left here???

i dont know that a nut splitter will work for me in some tight spaces.

i can't find one in the stores to begin with. well okay i only tried one store . . . the auto parts place we buy from. . . an independent. " if we can't get it no one can" type of deal. . . he told me they dont have it.

home depot perhaps?

oxyacetylene torch?

butane/propane torch first since it will be cheaper?

im at a loss guys. help me out. thank a million

for listening/reading and for helping
 
  #25  
Old 03-11-2007, 11:34 AM
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I tried cutting them off with a 3" air cut off wheel thing and that gets me to about half way and then does nothing.

Felixr
As AX said, you need a lot of air to run most tools. It's particularly true of the cut off tools. A small compressor will never be able to run one.

Cal
 
  #26  
Old 03-11-2007, 11:56 AM
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i have a 120v (which keeps tripping my circuit breaker) 5hp 100 psi 21 gallon compressor. this considered to be small?
 
  #27  
Old 03-11-2007, 12:01 PM
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I run a 6.5 HP 220 volt air compressor with a 60 gal tank, 1/2 inch hose and GP air tools. Stuff moves or brakes first time every time.
 
  #28  
Old 03-11-2007, 12:45 PM
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You know I am surprised to see that no one mentioned using a propane torch to heat the threads of the bolts until red hot then spray them with PB Blaster. The sudden cooling will flake off the rust. Then loosen the hardware until it starts getting tight then work the bolts back and forth until they come out. The same thing is used to pull stubborn exhaust port bolts that snapped on a set of heads. Takes a little bit of patients but it does work.
 
  #29  
Old 03-11-2007, 12:56 PM
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i have mentioned it but no one has agreed nor denied that i should use it.

i was told by someone else that propane will not get it hot enough.
how much does a propane torch run anyway? is home depot the best place to get it from?
 
  #30  
Old 03-11-2007, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by felixr
i have a 120v (which keeps tripping my circuit breaker) 5hp 100 psi 21 gallon compressor. this considered to be small?
In a word....yes.

I run a 220V blackmax, 5 HP, 60 gallon tank. It has a hard time keeping up with a DA and some other major air tools. It is ok, but not the best.

I need a two stage (someday when I get rich! ).


EDIT: I will admit I have a few HF tools. They are ones I am pretty sure I will only use once or twice though. Even some of those have been returned once.

If it is something I know I will use on a regular basis, I go for the name brands.
 

Last edited by Brian_B; 03-11-2007 at 01:40 PM.

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