the other day i called BTS to talk about a built auto trans, and ended up talking about an auto to manual trans swap. which is what i really want is a standard tranny. so my question to yall is what part of the wiring harness do i need, and would i be able to get it from ford, or would it need to come from say a junk parts truck. also my truck came with the 60/40 bench seat, what kind of clearances with the shifter would i have.

now remember im just doing some homework right now on this deal, and its not a forsure right now but im really thinking about it.

 

I have a bench seat with the 6 speed, and I think you would have no problems with clearance. I also would not trade my stick for an auto ever!! I love it!

 

I know this doesnt answer your questions, but from my experience if you are going to be pulling heavy loads over long distances I would make sure you beef up the clutch.

 

At the VERY LEAST, remove the transmission and install one of the Kevlar pilot bushings. I had to buy a transmission because of a stupid little pilot bearing failure. Factory clutch was still in good shape at 75,000 miles. A new LUK went in anyway, but still........

 

Posting to subscribe, I seriously hate my automatic, I want a 6 speed on my truck ASAP.

 

yeah if i did the 6 speed i would definantly be gettin a clutch to support the power that will hopefully come down the line.

 

I really like my 6 speed (heck I wish I had 7 or 8 gears most of the time) and we pull most of the time with ours. I have not had any clutch problems yet (about 70k miles) but I would say you could cause them if you punish yours. Just remember that 1st gear is there for a reason and sometimes it's better to ease out of the throttle than to burn down the clutch in a hard pull.
It seems to me that the clutch pedal and steering column mods would be the hard part. Also, didn't I hear somewhere that the output shafts are different for auto vs man or maybe that was 2wd vs 4wd.
Good luck and let us know how it goes if you take the plunge.

John
2003 CC dually 4x4, K & N FIPK intake, Superchips Max Microtuner (soon to be a DP tuner), 91 gallon RDS tank/toolbox combo

 

my clutch problems didnt come from not using the proper gear. It came from pulling heavy loads over long distances. The pressure plate would get too hot, so I was told.

Basically if you arent working you pickup too hard then there probably wont be any problems.

 

gobigorange, you are correct. after talking to brian at BTS i really got intrigued about this, and hopefully when i go junkyard searching i can find a truck to take the pedals, and the hydraulic system from. also im still in the homework stage, but my transmission guy might have a 6 speed he would let go of.

hopefully within the next week or two i will have enough info to decide if i want to go this route or not.

also does anybody know what kind of electrical stuff i will need to switch out if i do put in the 6 speed.

thanks, Austin

 

I do know that you will need to have the ecm re programmed for a standard transmission. I think with the standard transmission programing it includes the cruise control kick off when you push in the clutch, but I'd double check that. Not sure what other wiring you'd need. Brian might be able to tell you as he has done just the opposite swap.

 

thanks cangim i'll also look into that.

austin

 

My truck pulled loads most of its life and I just had to change the clutch at 250,000 miles. After seeing the pieces, I almost put the original clutch back in. The clutch looked the same as the new one, the only problem I had was the pressure plate was weak. I got my clutch right from Ford, was around $750 for the kit. I hear guys telling me to put in hayes, but my logic was if OEM lasted a quarter million miles, that was good enough for me.

 

Jeffdoerr you make an interesting point.
Is the pedal effort still the same with your new clutch? I put a LUK kit in mine and it feels like it's a lot weaker than the factory clutch that came out. I saved my old flywheel just in case.

Also I feel the same way about my Audi's as you do about your Saab. There is no substitute for a nice tight handling car. I get into a domestic sedan to drive it and it feels like there is a sponge between the steering input and the road.

 

The clutch feels normal, as best as I can tell. Just like it did before it started slipping.

I wanted an Audi and drive several but we just could not come up with a good enough deal, then the Saab appeared. I still want a A6, maybe next year....

 

Well Jeff, my first OEM clutch only lasted 80,000 miles and my second lasted only 50,000. Second one went south because of fuel spilling down thw back of the engine and saturating the clutch disc. Went back in with a LUK clutch and must say it works much better than the OEM. Much lower pedal pressurer to operate too.