What causes ABS light to stay on all the time?

 

Sensor may be bad.

 

Hi, how long has it been since you checked your brakes? My ABS light went on about 2 months before I did. I had no brakes, and one traffic ticket, before I did a brake job(that day). All 4 were gone, I mean gone, with brake fluid leaking out where there used to be seals

 

braks are real good .change sensor in rearend ,also ford said the abs module was bad .change that ,it wasnt bad . the abs moduel cost 1200.00 wrong again .i dont know if there is anyother sensor are not . doesnt bring up any codes .

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Nov-02 AT 03:31 AM (EST)]Are you pulling the codes yourself?? The abs has a separate connector than the engine does. The abs connector should be right next to the EEC-IV connector. Also I believe the abs light has to have a special machine hooked up to it to erase the old code-simply fixing it wont shut it off (but I could be wrong on that). Could also be one of the tone ring sensors on the wheels themselves.

 

ABS module shouldn't store any codes- I am pretty sure they get erased every time you shut the truck off. Had another thought: did you ever check the connector on the back of the instrument cluster? Ho about the wiring for the rear sensor?
Why did you create so many different posts?

Jared

 

i created different posts cause when i put it all in one post didnt get no good answerds. seems luke when i keep it simple i get more answerds most of the things that have been sugested ive allready done.

 

What is this $1,200 module? I just had to replace the RABS proportioning valve because the brakes were not working properly (it wasn't sending pressure to the bqack, and too much to the front). I don't really care if the RABS works or not, as long as the brakes work. There is NO WAY that I am spending another $1,200 on this truck's brakes. If this module happens to go bad (knocking loudly on wood), can I just disconnect it or something?

 

the part is on the frame rail just behind the headlite. mine is a 1995 5.8 .aod trans. you can disconnect it but it wont do any good.mine doesnt pull any codes. makes a hole lot more difficult. hoping one of the people that reads this could help could help.

 

Mine does not seem bad right now. No ABS light. What I am asking is: is this necessary to make the brakes work properly, or just for the ABS? Like when my proportioning valve went bad, it messed up all the brakes. What about this thing? If it happens to go bad one day, and I just disconnect it, will it simply mean no RABS, or will it mess the rest of the braking up? Do I even have one of these on a 1990 with RABS only?

 

 

I just found the problem with my ABS light staying on. I noticed the other day after I pressure washed my engine that it went out and stayed out the rest of the day, so I figured at that point that the pressure from the washer moved some wires around found my loose connection for me. I just got through disconnecting the connector from the master cylinder.(2 purple/white wires, 1 black wire) I found a broken terminal inside the connector. I haven't repaired it yet, but after reconnecting it, I turned the key on and the ABS light came on for three seconds, went out, and came back on and stayed on. I reached around under the hood and wiggled the wires while watching the ABS light and it went out and stayed out. It would be worth 5 minutes for you guys to check out! Hope it works for ya!

Bronco894x4

 

I had an abs problem a while back on my 92.The light started coming on only after i had been driving for awhile. My brakes seemed to work fine. Eventually I noticed that my speedo started acting up when i was going up long grades or on hot days. Finally I put 2 and 2 together and realized that my speed sensor was bad. I checked with several local parts houses, who wanted $40-50, and had to order it. On a hunch i called the ford dealer, and they had one in stock, for like $15. And sure enough, that was my problem.:-)

 

I recently purchased a '94 Bronco (124k mi., with an always-on ABS light), the prior owner said his mechanic told him to just watch it for a while to see if it went away. It didn't. So, I purchased the Ford shop manuals, and diagnosed the problem as being error code 22, a bad inlet valve in the ABS hydraulic controller unit (mounted to the top of the frame just inside the left-front wheel.) Sure enough, that valve's wiring showed an open-circuit.

So, I asked Ford, and they wanted $1200 for a replacement HCU. I went to the junkyard (Rancho Ford in Rancho Cordova, CA, just outside Sacramento) and got a used one from a '93 Bronco for $125. Swapped 'em, got a new error code: bad rear axle speed sensor, $24 from Ford, and it was working fine. Also took the opportunity to flush/bleed the brakes (nothing special for the ABS.) Also learned that when radiator coolant gets into the ABS computer's connector (as it sits right below the reservoir), that computer spits out tons of bad-sounding error codes. So, make sure you put the proper grease on it to prevent it from getting wet.

Not bad, I thought, as this was my first Project with it. Next up? U-joints, tailgate weatherstripping, etc...

 

There was talk about changing the rear sensor on the bronco. Is that dificult to change and do you know if it is the same on an E150? I am now driving my 4th ford to have the abs light stay on. Not counting my dads bronco that had the same problem. Kind of discouraging. Thank you.

Keith