no starting contour
#1
no starting contour
hello FTE members, moderator and all. it has been a while since ive posted. have certainly missed FTE.anyway. 1988 contour 2.0 automatic..first it was a no spark to the coil. fixed that but now it still will not crank up and run. only if i spray fuel into the throttle body then it will crank for 10 sec's or so. ive checked the inerta switch and relays and fuses and the fuse for the fuel pump also.i had to run a jumper from another hot fuse to the fuel pump fuse to get it power and the fuel pump runs and is pumping fuel out im at a stand still.any help at all would be great . i don't know what to check yet.i havn't checked the fuel prssure at the rail but the fuel pump does work. any help at all please . thanks toyta..
#3
#6
ground wire
I cleaned my ground wires from auxialllary fuse box to the motor and to the car frame.It would seem to me if no power this fuse only something else maybe or not? everything else is working only the fuse for the pump.really has me throughed off. put gas in the throttle body and it runs for a min. but not getting it with the pump running for a straight minute. could a fuel pump still run but just not with enough pressure to open the injectors or does this fuse and relay supply something else to. pressure regulator?
#7
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#8
Join Date: May 2004
Location: The hills of No. Calif.
Posts: 12,169
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You really need to check the fuel pressure. It is indeed possible for the pump to run but not put out sufficient pressure to run the engine. It could also run but not build enough pressure due to a bad FP regulator dumping the fuel right back into the tank, or even a really badly clogged fuel filter restricting the flow.
Checking pressure is pretty easy. The low-buck approach is to buy a cheapo 0-100 psi pressure gauge at the hardware store (the kind designed for water systems, with a 1/8" pipe fitting on it) which should set you back about 6-8 bucks or so. Then you locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, remove the valve core and clamp a short piece of fuel hose onto it with the pressure gauge clamped into the other end, turn on the key, listen for the fuel pump to build pressure and shut off (about 1-2 seconds) and check the gauge for pressure. You should have around 35 psi minimum in order for the engine to run, which should be around 40 or so with it actually running (if it did run...)
Checking pressure is pretty easy. The low-buck approach is to buy a cheapo 0-100 psi pressure gauge at the hardware store (the kind designed for water systems, with a 1/8" pipe fitting on it) which should set you back about 6-8 bucks or so. Then you locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, remove the valve core and clamp a short piece of fuel hose onto it with the pressure gauge clamped into the other end, turn on the key, listen for the fuel pump to build pressure and shut off (about 1-2 seconds) and check the gauge for pressure. You should have around 35 psi minimum in order for the engine to run, which should be around 40 or so with it actually running (if it did run...)
#9
ok im going to get pressure checker today . ill check the fuel pressure.the fuel pump dosn't just run for two sec' or twenty sec's it stays running because ive had to run a jumper wire from another hot fues to the fuel pump fuse. so the pump runs steady with the key on. also im going to buy a new fuel pump relay so i can elimanate that relay problem also.thanks for the responce back fordnut71 and tigerdan ill post back later today with the results.again thanks..
#12