Another topic that'll be debated like the Ford in a Ford vs. Something else. 90% of the replacement harnesses are pvc with a cloth covering. They used the same gauge wires, 10ga, 12ga, 14ga, etc. I guess it depends on the future plans of the owner for the truck, but 6 volt systems are not any less reliable than the 12 volts. They both suffer if bad grounds, or poor connections exist, and they both short out and burn if there's a problem. You just can't have that new JVC or Pioneer stereo system, or fancy car alarm, or power windows/locks, or cruise, or Onstar. I guess it also depends on a persons back gorund. A truck is a truck. We work our trucks, even the oldies. Trucks aren't daily drivers that replaced the town car in our world. Leave the luxeries for the sedans. We like our trucks to be able to haul stuff, and don't throw a tantrum if it got a little ding. We don't put 20" spinners on our trucks, and we don't replace the proven duty strength suspensions with air bags and C-notches. If you're not going to run all the original stuff, then go 12 volt painless (painful) wiring, and convert to 12 volt gauges ($270 for a set with senders). Then the $50 alternator (G.M. converted to one wire). $35 starter (if you're using small chevy with matching transmission). $175 for the wiper conversion, and $90 for the heater motor, $25 for the heater switch, $50 for the wiper switch, $73 for the headlight switch kit. $250 for the harness, but add for the headlight sockets, tail light and parklight sockets, wiring to the rear. Etc. etc.

 

If I wanted to do the painless conversion as you put it, to 12 V. for a driver/hauler I would get it all at either my donor pile, swap meets and junkyards for what you quoated for the guage set. However, if I wanted just a driver hauler I'd just buy something a lot newer that was still old by today's standards and I wouldn't have to convert it.

For a toy that I planed to drive around, I'd do the 12 volt switch and use some nice stuff amd still not break the bank. But hey, I'm a Darksider...

Like I said above, it's all in what YOU WANT... It's another one of those situations where it's your truck and your life so do what ever you want. I'm pretty sudre there are no penalties for that. Yet...

Later Man...

 

Julie, you made some good points. This thread started way back, I did not really know his truck did not have an electrical system in it at all.

Yes, if a guy wants to add a lot of new accessories he needs 12 volt, as I said earlier. I found this out in the 70's when I wanted to put a 8 track player in my truck.

WMJoe makes good points also. I think it is a pain to replace all lights , gauges, and switches just to go with 12 volt. And I have never had a problem buying 6 volt bulbs or headlights, etc.

DAve makes a good point which is always true: It is your truck you can do what you want. And we offer opinions, nothing is right or wrong.

I think I now know what a truck didi if it had a lot of accessories: Ford sold as an option a heavy duty generator. These were found on the bigger trucks. I am sure the gennys on WMJoes' firetrucks are bigger and put out more juice that the gen on my F-100.

 

You're right abe. Yeah, my Big Job had a 100 amp leece neville. Since the truck in question was butchered by a PO, starting over is the best idea. I don't know that a typical aftermarket harness is the most affordable option though. I have spent the last 5 days researching this exact situation, because my F-800 (with CAT motor) has to be 12 volt. I cannot get a fuel shut off solenoid, or starter for it in 6 volt. To do the job right, one should replace everything electrical, and I mean everything from the bulbs to the switches, to the motors. This, excluding alternator and starter, is just over $1000. I searched all the sources for our restoration parts, Mid-Fifty, Concours, Macs, Dennis Carpenter, etc., etc. and it is just over $1000 with shipping for the cheapest of all of them. Mid Fifty has the cheapest switches, and senders, and gauges, and such, sockets, and such, but Concours has the cheapest harnesses and they are direct fit ready to go units with modern pvc jacketed wire with clothe covering to look original. They are cheaper than the painless, which are a generic aftermarket unit that is not actually a bolt inready piece. If the gauges are still good, and the heater/wiper motors are good, you can use electronic voltage reducers, Mid-Fifty offers them at $63 ea, and you need one for the gauges (one does all the gauges), and one for the motors (one does both wiper and heater motor. If the gauges are bad, again, Mid-Fifty has the best price for a gauge kit in 12 volt with senders, $269.95 plus shipping. You can go several ways, but do some homework before jumping in with both feet, because it will very quickly add up. If you need my notes, I have done all the searching already, and have part numbers and current prices for all new stuff, and will gladly post it up for you. No sense in redoing the several days of searching if the info is already available.

 

Man, y'all rock when it comes to this stuff. I wasn't the original poster, but I jumped in later since this was the exact subject I needed to talk about (after doing a search).

My '54 truck had been converted to 12V in a former life and is in this condition:

Alternator mounted and connected correctly.
Holley 600 on a Ford manifold. 239 is all stock otherwise.
Ignition has a 12V coil and ballast resistor.
None of the gauges work (probably weren't converted).
Don't know about the heater.
All the wiring is hacked up crap.
All the lights are 12V.
Starter and solenoid are 12V.

I just need to wire a decent fuse panel and the rest of the truck with all the necessary circuits. I have a lot of electrical/electronics experience and it shouldn't be too hard. I just wanted to see if anyone already had some wiring diagrams. Julie came through for me on that.

If it was still 6V and had all the hardware for that, I would probably leave it 6V. It doesn't so I'm not.

Thanks a bunch all...