hangAny one know if the 6 disc in dash cer has any RCA/PreAmp outputs?
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Kwik is right. I used nails with the tips ground down and they worked fine. If you want, Wal Mart sells the tool for $3-$4.
There is a space for another harness on the back of them too. check out this photo :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-...spagenameZWDVW
You can buy an adapter harness that will convert it down to low for RCA plugs.
I added two amps 200W for a 12" sub and 480W for the new speakers I added. I used the high level inputs, and it sounds great!
I used the existing molex plug but ran all new speaker wires to handle the juice. I just used a multimeter to see which pin in the unused plug area on the back of the radio put out voltage when radio was turned on for the remote on for the amps.
Its really an easy mod to do. It was my first mod. I did it the first week I bought it back in June 2001.
The one thing that made a huge difference also was adding poly fill in the doors. Especially in my rear doors. You could use dynamat too. I used two layers of rubber ice and water shield for roofs since I had four huge rolls of it in my shop.
If you do a little research on the internet you'll find all kinds of good info.
And when you're educated after that... do it up! I spend a lot of time behind the wheel and I love to crank up the tunes. Music is one of my biggest passions and joys.
Hope that helps a little,
Austin
There is a space for another harness on the back of them too. check out this photo :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-...spagenameZWDVW
You can buy an adapter harness that will convert it down to low for RCA plugs.
I added two amps 200W for a 12" sub and 480W for the new speakers I added. I used the high level inputs, and it sounds great!
I used the existing molex plug but ran all new speaker wires to handle the juice. I just used a multimeter to see which pin in the unused plug area on the back of the radio put out voltage when radio was turned on for the remote on for the amps.
Its really an easy mod to do. It was my first mod. I did it the first week I bought it back in June 2001.
The one thing that made a huge difference also was adding poly fill in the doors. Especially in my rear doors. You could use dynamat too. I used two layers of rubber ice and water shield for roofs since I had four huge rolls of it in my shop.
If you do a little research on the internet you'll find all kinds of good info.
And when you're educated after that... do it up! I spend a lot of time behind the wheel and I love to crank up the tunes. Music is one of my biggest passions and joys.
Hope that helps a little,
Austin
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#8
Originally Posted by AustinS
The one thing that made a huge difference also was adding poly fill in the doors. Especially in my rear doors. You could use dynamat too. I used two layers of rubber ice and water shield for roofs since I had four huge rolls of it in my shop.
Austin
Austin
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My truck is a supercab so the back doors don't have a window issue.
In my front doors, I just put it in the bottom part of the door and stayed away from any moving parts. You also don't want to not pack it real tight so when moisture gets in it will dry quickly. The main thing that helps front doors & crew cab doors is a rubber membrane like the roofing ice and water shield or Dynamat. I cleaned the inside of the door and applied it to any area I could get to.
There are alot of new marine sound deadening chemicals that are awsome for doors too.
Hope that clears it up better.
Austin
In my front doors, I just put it in the bottom part of the door and stayed away from any moving parts. You also don't want to not pack it real tight so when moisture gets in it will dry quickly. The main thing that helps front doors & crew cab doors is a rubber membrane like the roofing ice and water shield or Dynamat. I cleaned the inside of the door and applied it to any area I could get to.
There are alot of new marine sound deadening chemicals that are awsome for doors too.
Hope that clears it up better.
Austin