I'm considering buying a 69 van that reportedly has real bad steering. I know that it could be bad kingpins or tie-rod ends, but. I fixed sloppy steering in my 69 F100 by repacking the wheelbearings, getting alignment, and replacing the steering coupler disk. How hard is it to get to the steering coupler on a 69 van, and is there a significant difference in the twin I-beam setup from the 2wd pickup? I asked this on the 67-79 truck van forum and nobody responded.

BBT

 

>I'm considering buying a 69 van
>that reportedly has real bad
>steering. I know
>that it could be bad
>kingpins or tie-rod ends, but.
> I fixed sloppy steering
>in my 69 F100 by
>repacking the wheelbearings, getting alignment,
>and replacing the steering coupler
>disk. How hard is
>it to get to the
>steering coupler on a 69
>van, and is there a
>significant difference in the twin
>I-beam setup from the 2wd
>pickup? I asked
>this on the 67-79 truck
>van forum and nobody responded.
>
>
>BBT


BBT
I wouldn't think there are any major differences between a van and a truck. About the only major difference I can see is in the angle of the steerign linkage itself. Everything else should be the same.

Trail Rider

 

Besides the typical problems you should pay attention to these 'special' parts of the Econoline steering and front suspension:

1) the 'center pin' - the drag link comes back from the steering gear and connects to a center link that is mounted to the frame crossmember by a large vertical pin (bolt) encased in a rubber or urethane bushing and a housing. This bushing breaks down and will get very sloppy. Have a friend move the steering wheel and observe this. Replace it if it shows any play.

2) Radius arm bushings - these establish steering geometry but also take most of the impact of running into things like curb stops and potholes. The front one will start to pancake and the rear one will take up the space. However, this really means that the I beams are moving back and forth as much as an inch while you drive. The passenger side breaks down more quickly due to parking stops and curb bumping during parking. There may be some deterioration on the passenger side due to exposure to battery acids (this is also the cause of the 'bleeding' passenger side headlight).

The best thing to do is replace the center pin, radius arm bushings, I beam bushings, and tie rod ends (or should I say tie rods). If you still have slop, drag link and flex coupler are next. Finally, the steering gear itself (this is hard to find AND seems to have a built in steering shaft play that translates to about 3 to 5 inches of steering wheel motion)

Good luck!