Ok so my key cylinder was broken so i got a new one and put it in. Now i have a problem with it working. The part that actually goes into that rocker arm is bad. im sorry im going to babble because i dont know any tech. words so you understand whats going on. The block part on the end of the cylinder goes into the colom and when the key is turned it turns that block which moves the rocker arm that connects to the ingtion switch. That part is bad that my cylinder goes into. My key will spin in but it stays in the on position. It wont turn it to start or off or accesories. What i am doing now to make it driveable is using needle nose pliers to move that rocker arm that goes from the colom to the ignition switch. I KNOW its not the ignition switch or the key. Advanced told me i would have to go to a dealer for this part. Is it just taking off the steering wheel and i get access to it? Could i just go to a junk yard and get a whole new colom? Would that be hard to just swap out?

 

This is probably your problem.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ch-thread.html

The only special tools you may need is a steering wheel puller and maybe a pivot pin puller all available at local auto part stores.

 

Snap ring pliers, if you want to call that a "special tool".

I just did this on my truck about 2 weeks ago, here is the write-up I did for myself so I can remember how next time:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

Dang it! That thread has the info I needed the 11th, 2 days before the first post. I searched and found a lot of pretty much the same, step by step, advice but nothing that gave me enough confidence to try it myself. I even bumped a previous post adding to it details on my problem but got no reply.

Instead I succumbed to the weather(4ºf) and had mine towed so a shop could do it for me.

It turns out they're short staffed due to illness so it's been there a week for a 2 hour job. They're a good garage, just my bad luck.

Meanwhile it's warmed up some and here's this thread with excellent pictures. I'll definately be doing it myself next time. Probably sooner than later as this is the third time having it fixed. I guess I have until then to get a wheel puller. Maybe a new steering wheel for the heck of it.

 

thanks for the step by step. I got it all opened up and tried getting that stupid pin out while it was still on the colom. Now i know its easier to take the whole thing out. i'll get r done and post to show i can do something. THANKYOU
i hear you lumpy i live in nebraska and had to change my batter and starter this last weekend luckily i had the starter and battery done on saturday night just before the snow hit.

 

After talking to the mechanic they also discovered the turn signal was going bad and had deposited copper filing all over the place which could have contributed to the actuator cam failure.

I believe the weather may have had at least a little to do with the part breaking in the first place.

 

well i think i destroyed my colom. I cant get my tilt wheel to work, anything to back together, lost springs i think. NOW i am hoping the easiest thing will to be get the colom from a junk yard. Is there a junction that they could unbolt and sell to me then i could just unbolt my whole colom and replace it? I am suposed to help someone move this weekend so would be nice if that would work so i can get it up by friday. i am begining to wish i would have just stuck to using my needle nose pliers and not tried to fix it. Please any advice with what to do. OR any idea on the cost of taking this to a shop, or maybe the dealership would be best to fix this if i cant do it. 1988 f-150 w/ 351, tilt wheel, cruise control. Thanks

 

anything please i want to get the parts tonight

 

the column unbolts from the cab with 2 bolts under the dash, and 6 or 8 screws on the firewall. then there is the bolt that holds it to the steering box by the rag joint. total time to remove and reinstall is about 1 hour. the hardest thing of a column r&r is getting the shift indicator on an automatic lined up.

 

thanks $175 for the new colom :/ it comes with the key though lol

 

Yikes! That was an expensive lesson. My actuator cost about $10 from Ford.