My last diesel was an '81 Riveria. I loved that car. I loved it more after I dropped an OLDS Rocket in it. Anyway, I am going to pick up a super duty diesel this weekend that has been sitting a long time ( the inspection sticker says May '05) I did not see any leaks. Its a 99, has 90k, the oil is black, coolant has a good color, and trans fluid looks fresh. The column has been stripped of it's cover and the wiring harness disconnected. I did not see where the harness plugs into, it looked tapered to fit the curve around the bottom of the column. The key cylinder is missing. But the steering wheel is free. What are the chances of taking my BIG screwdriver, and crossing the posts, and jumping this thing? The black oil scares me a bit because of the blow-by I remember with the Riv diesel.

Any last minute advice before I commit to screwing with this thing in the 30-40 degree weather? The good news- I only live a couple of miles from where it's parked. Do I need to purge the fuel first?

Thanks!!

 

Welcome to FTE!

I don't think I'd trust fuel that's been sitting in there for 1.5+ years. Probably wise to drain the tank and refill, and then jumper the fuel pump, and open the yellow drain lever on the back of the fuel filter housing so it can pump all the old fuel in the lines out until the fresh fuel is coming. Also wouldnt' hurt to change the fuel filter. The reason I suggest all this is that diesel fuel can grow all sorts of crud in it if it sits stagnant for long periods of time. Some sort of Stanadyne Formula or Powerservice Diesel Kleen or something similar wouldn't hurt, either.

Don't let black oil scare you... even fresh oil will turn black long before a change is due... it's just the nature of a diesel. However, it also wouldn't hurt to change the oil before running the engine, if it's been sitting that long.

Looking forward to hearing how it starts and such... be sure to post away with questions, we're all here to help!

 

Since the steering wheel is free, can I start it like my old fords in '60's? crossing the screwdriver over the posts on the solenoid?

 

If it has been sitting that long I would purge the fuel and add some biocide to the fresh. Soot loads up pretty fast in some oils and will turn them black in a 1000 miles so dont let that worry you as much as the general wear condition of the whole truck and WHY has it been sitting so long?

 

Are you talking about the starter solenoid? I don't think that will work ... the Ignition cylinder needs to be in the ON position for the PCM to get power (and it needs power in order to fire the injectors).

 

You'll need to get the key to the run position so that the PCM and IDM are powered

Ryan is that you i hear in my head?

 

LOL.

I swear we're linked at the brain.

 

Thanks for the advice on the fuel. I will take it.

This was a fleet vehicle.

The key/column issue may have too much of a hassle, and they parked it, or it could have had other problems. I am buying it without running or driving, so naturally, I am paying very little.

The VIN search says a remanufactured trans was installed 13k miles ago, 68k it's at 81k which is now another point of consideration.

99 Reg Cab. Heavy Duty 4X4 Auto with Plow. If I can't start it, I know of a guy that will flat bed home to my heated garage... once there, I expect to have it roaring within a short period.


I will keep you posted!

 

Since the column covers are off get a good look at the harness and clockspring if you can see it. They are a headache source on these trucks.

 

I doubt you will get it to run without an igniton switch. You need a properly wired ignition switch or you're going nowhere as previously mentioned Of course a clever guy can do this too but be careful as the PCM is easily sent south, if it has not already been sent below the Mason Dixon line by someone else with similar ideas. Only three setting IIRC. Off, run/on, and start. Gonna need to check ALL of the fuses.

As mentioned, swap fuel and filter. Fill that filter bowl manually with DK/diesel mix while you're there.

Pull HPOP plug on top and add fresh oil until just below top.

Avoid burning up the starter cranking it. May try a large breaker bar on the crank nut just to see how it turns over prior to cranking.

If it does crank and run, I would warm it up, check for leaks, drive etc and immediately change oil. The other fluids shortly thereafter.

Good Luck.

 

Well. well I didn't come close to winning this auction someone went $7200. which is ridiculous. They did seem to know a lot about the 7.3 so good luck to them.. I was ready to go to $5k, but there are a few on EBAY for less.

I was betting too, that it would start without much effort.