I have a 1992 Ford 7.3L Diesel short bus that will not start. Just got new plugs and the injector seals were replaced due to them leaking fuel. It does not leak any fluids. When I try to start the engine, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, but no starting. Please help me troubleshoot this problem.

 

raceopticsbus,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI forum.

First check,
While someone else is cranking the engine, depress the tire valve looking thing on the fuel filter. Are you getting fuel?

 

check the glow plug relay.its behind the intake maifold.Another one is the fuel shut down silenoid (I think i spelled that wrong) ground it out and run a jump wire to the positive stud it should make a small click about 3 or 4 timed.if it don't click you found the prolem.test the studs with a test light to find pos. and neg. the studs are on top of the injection pump.I'll bet its the fuel shut down.

 

where is the fuel filter at?

 

If i do the fuel filter test, does that bypass the solenied test?

 

Two wires on top of the Injector pump. The rear one is cold advance relay, only gets power when engine is cold- not necessary for running. The front wire is the fuel shut off soliniod, this should have 12V at the wire or the truck will not run. Both are grounded internally in the IP. The front terminal is the one you can jump to the battery and should hear it clicking. Not sure about your van, but filter is located front above driver side rocker cover, should be a tire type of schrader valve on the top filter housing. If you press in on the valve while someone esle cranks the engine, you should have fuel at the valve. This will also release trapped air in the filter if that is the problem. Do not run the starter more than 20 seconds at a time with a coulple of minutes cool down between starts.

 

Do a pressure and flow test of the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter header (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected on IP). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.

 

From your question about where the fuel filter is located, I assume it has not been changed recently. The filter is also a water seperator on the 92 model engines.

My guess now is the fuel filter needs changed.

On an F series it is at the front of the passenger side head, but I think it is located differently on an E series. Looks a lot like a spin on oil filter and it should be on top of the motor. Fuel line from the lift pump to the filter, and a line going from the filter to the injector pump. Both of those lines will be steel lines.

 

ok, fuel filter value is pouring out fuel when cranking the motor over. The IP is clicking. What should I check next.
I noticed when I turn the key the part in the picture makes a loud click and kind of smokes a little, also gets very hot. Is this normal?

 

yep the glow plug relay is bad.mine was about a 100 and somthin bucks.thats the same thing mine did to the T.it only take a few minutes to chang.

 

ok, I will change it. Anyone recommend a place to purchase this part? What part do I replace, cause it looks like a couple of parts. Or does that whole piece come together?
Thanks for your help

 

napa is the best bet for a quality unit and they do come seporat or atleast mine did.the best and safe bet it to change both units.

 

O ya and check all wires for damage I went through a brand new on couse a damaged ground wire.

 

thanks for the tip. I willl check those wires.

 

Glow plug controller
Handles lots of amperage when you heat the glow plugs.
Where is the smoke coming from?
Where is it getting hot at?

The big red wire under your finger goes straight to the battery positive terminal and is always electrically hot.
The terminal to the leftwith the two redwires on it is from the ignition switch, power to that terminal when the key is ON.
The two wires at the far left go to the glow plugs, they look brown in the picture.
I would check them for a short to the engine somewhere.
Sometimes when glow plugs short out, they short to ground.
You could check the resistance with an ohm meter on each glow plug.
Resistance should be between .5 and 1.5 ohms from the connector to the case.
It does take a fairly good meter to not show a short though.

With all the glow plug connectors removed from the glow plugs, the ohm meter should show an open circuit with the key off and one lead on the engine block and the other on the glow plug terminal.