Has anyone heard of the "whistler" fat shaft Turbo from jobeperformance? Does anyone have any stories or issues with it. I guess it is suppose to be loud and spool up quick putting out the same amount of air flow at 30psi as the BB at 45psi.

Just trying to figure out if I want the WW/ATS upgrade or save my money for a new turbo like the whistler.

 

Do you have a link to some info on it? I know of one particular turbo that goes by about three different names. This could be similar. I've never heard of the one you mentioned though.

 

I believe its the same as the Turbonetics turbo. Nice unit, there lieing to you about the air flow but its still a very good option...

 

This is their claim...

-91mm compressor wheel, double fin design with agressive trim angles

-360 degree thrust bearing (MUCH STRONGER THAN STOCK!)

-Larger shaft for durability

-1/2 in. thick Billet aluminum seal plate ( not cast)



-larger 1.01 A/R turbine housing OR .86 TURBINE FOR FASTER SPOOLUP !!

-can use wastegate or delete wastegate on turbine side

-Designed to handle high boost levels with no wastegate

-No surging No shudder

-Balanced wheels, shaft, and whole assembly for ideal spoolup

-Fits to stock up pipes and turbo pedastal

-Stronger and faster than Ball bearing turbos

AVAILABLE WITH .86A/R TURBINE HOUSING w/ FASTER SPOOLUP !!!!

 

Post their link for evaluation please.

 

http://www.jobeperformance.com/wst_page10.html

here it is

 

Someone else may know for sure, but this looks suspiciously like the High Tech Turbo or the Ballbuster turbo. I had a High Tech Turbo that I eventually swapped out with a Van Turbo and ATS housing. The HTT has a WW compressor wheel design that had a lot of whistle (way to much for long towing trips) and really seemed oversized for my application. Not that it matters as long as you not blowing black smoke, but I never got the HTT much over 15 psi. I can get the van turbo to 25psi pretty easy, and the ATS with the stock compressor wheel has just the right amount of whistle for me.

 

Remember... Boost does not equal power, only more heat you have to deal with... If your new turbo was pushing as much air as your drive pressure could build thats a more effective turbo then the Van turbo you are running now...

That turbo from Jobe is $200 more then Brian at BWD (blackwidowdiesel) is selling it for. I think Jeremy at LIPD is still $150-200 more then jobes price! That turbo is the same one I am running right now, sold under many names, it is tough, heavy, built to work turbo. You will never get that thing to surge.

The only downside of it is the slower spool with the 1.0 exhaust housing. I am testing a .84 housing right now with injectors, drive pressures went up, but still lower then the stock one.

The Turbonetics with the 1.0 to 1.0 housing was at some points building more boost then drive pressures in the 10-12# range... But until you got to the 25-28# range it was still 1# boost= 1# drive pressure!!!

A good turbo, but you can find it cheaper from LIPD or BWD.

 

I agree boost does not equal power. All the turbo does is make the air available to push more fuel through the engine.

I do have a hard time understanding how you can achieve the same airflow with less boost pressure. For more power the enginge needs more fuel, and the engine needs more air to react with more fuel or the engine will blow a bunch of black smoke. For each Cylinder there is a given displacement. Assuming a constant temperature, the only way to get more air into each cylinder is to increase the boost pressure. So in a nutshell the boost pressure, boost temperature, and engine rpm gives the air flow rate.

What I do understand is that the turbine wheel is basically a restriction in the exhaust of the engine which robs some of the power of the engine. So basically the turbocharger robs some of the power of the engine and in return gives the engine the ability to produce more power. So yes if you reduce the drive pressure of the turbine housing and still maintain the same boost pressure, you simply reduce some of the power you rob from the engine....similar to a larger exhaust or larger air filter.

 

I'm not trying to start an argument here...but about a year ago everyone was saying bad things about the HTT and Ball-Buster and everyone was going for the van turbo. I've been away from this site from a while....did I miss something?

 

I just saw where the fat-shaft has a 91mm diameter and the HTT has an 88mm diameter.....so they are not the same.

 

And there you go. That is why we have intercoolers. The same amount of boost at a lower temp equals more volume equals more potential. Think of what happens when you blow up a ballon and put it in the freezer. Same amount of air/oxygen, just a lower PSI/temp. A lot less temp/PSI= shrinkage.
No, you missed nothing. It's still about getting an efficient ratio between the drive pressure on the turbine and what the impellar can do. The van turbo is a good option as is the ATS housing. The trick is finding the sweet drive pressure ratio that will work with your current and planned mods.

Bottom line, whatever can move the volume of air, whatever PSI, will provide the most potential but we don't want it at the expense of low end power. I am not running my rig in the 1/4 mile. Also, surge is a real bad thing as you know.

 

I agree 100% about the intercooler. Also helps keep EGT's in check.

Unless you are running a turbocharger that is way out of its efficiency range, you need more boost to get more air into the displacement of each cylinder. Is there any evidence that shows that the Phat shaft or Ball-Buster is more efficient, and at what HP (or flow rate) does it become more efficient?

As far as the low end power, the larger turbocharger would have less ability at the low end and the smaller turbo would have less ability on the high end. You could save some money by knowing what HP you are looking for and then comparing to a compressor map. I never did find one for the stock turbocharger.

 

So the GDS bal buster is a good all round turbo right? I use my truck as a daily driver. But I also tow a large 5er, and or boat too. will this turbo serve both purposes?

 

I am looking for better performance at the low end for towing. I don't care about the drag strip and I don't like the way it is stock having to stay above 2000 rpm to tow. What turbo will bring my curve down the RPM range.